I am trying to find a 4'' drain cap for my sewage line but I can't find any
good plumbing supply places on line. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks

Bob wrote:
I am trying to find a 4'' drain cap for my sewage line but I can't find any
good plumbing supply places on line. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks



A cap goes over the end of a pipe. If plastic,
you can get a glue-on cap. Or a rubber cap with stainless band.

One place:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/testing.html

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#cap

Thank you Speedy Jim.

Heres my problem.

There use to be a 4in screw in cap on my sewer line in my basement. One
time it rained like crazy and the water backed out. It turns out the pipes
threads are stipped so the cap was just sitting on top. When the water
backed up it just lifted off and my basement filled quickly.

So I purchased the below item from home depot.
http://tinyurl.com/aqwyy

This at it tightest setting does not seal the drain. Its like the very top
of it fits over the drain hole but the rubber in the middle does not expand
enough to grasp the pipe. I was wondering what else I could try. May be
the homedepot version is a piece of poo and another brand might work better?
The drain is metal and under the basement floor. Only the part with the
threads is showing above ground.

I was going to try this...
http://tinyurl.com/8fue3

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks again.




"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
I am trying to find a 4'' drain cap for my sewage line but I can't find
any good plumbing supply places on line. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks



A cap goes over the end of a pipe. If plastic,
you can get a glue-on cap. Or a rubber cap with stainless band.

One place:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/testing.html

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#cap

Bob - Those plugs are not the correct long term solution.

So, this is a basement floor cleanout in cast iron. The plug was originally
cast iron or bronze and may have been tapered. try a plumbing supply house
and ask them. You may need a new threaded section if you cant find the cap.
See if anything here looks familiar.

http://www.plumbingdirect.com/presen...&Submit=Search



"Bob" wrote in message
...
Thank you Speedy Jim.

Heres my problem.

There use to be a 4in screw in cap on my sewer line in my basement. One
time it rained like crazy and the water backed out. It turns out the
pipes threads are stipped so the cap was just sitting on top. When the
water backed up it just lifted off and my basement filled quickly.

So I purchased the below item from home depot.
http://tinyurl.com/aqwyy

This at it tightest setting does not seal the drain. Its like the very
top of it fits over the drain hole but the rubber in the middle does not
expand enough to grasp the pipe. I was wondering what else I could try.
May be the homedepot version is a piece of poo and another brand might
work better? The drain is metal and under the basement floor. Only the
part with the threads is showing above ground.

I was going to try this...
http://tinyurl.com/8fue3

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks again.




"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
I am trying to find a 4'' drain cap for my sewage line but I can't find
any good plumbing supply places on line. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks



A cap goes over the end of a pipe. If plastic,
you can get a glue-on cap. Or a rubber cap with stainless band.

One place:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/testing.html

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#cap

"Bob" wrote in message
...
I am trying to find a 4'' drain cap for my sewage line but I can't find
any
good plumbing supply places on line. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks


What is the pipe, cast iron. PVC, ABS ? Do you have access to the rest of
the pipe to change the clean out T? What is the screw in cap made of? Screw
in would be a plug.

I think its iron and I don't have access to the full T most of it is under
the concrete floor. It could be the threads are just rusty and corroded. I
am going to try and clean them out with a wire brush. If that does not work
I don't know what I am going to do.


"Sacramento Dave" wrote in message
.. .

"Bob" wrote in message
...
I am trying to find a 4'' drain cap for my sewage line but I can't find
any
good plumbing supply places on line. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks


What is the pipe, cast iron. PVC, ABS ? Do you have access to the rest
of
the pipe to change the clean out T? What is the screw in cap made of?
Screw
in would be a plug.

Bob wrote:

I think its iron and I don't have access to the full T most of it is under
the concrete floor. It could be the threads are just rusty and corroded. I
am going to try and clean them out with a wire brush. If that does not work
I don't know what I am going to do.

Call a plumber?

I still can't tell for sure, but it sounds like you're talking about a
drain cleanout access?

If the threads have been destroyed on the fitting and you don't want to
replace it at present, one possible makeshift solution would be to fit a
4" to 3" reducer into the present opening, using an epoxy for sealant to
account for the failed threads. Then plug the 3" opening. Still have
access for cleanout, albeit somewhat restricted, and should be able to
get it to hold water.

Call a plumber?
ouch... Unless you know someone, it's for a business or they do a lot of
work for you they are impossible to get to come out. Don't return phone
calls, etc... Same with electricians. At least in my experience.

It is a drain cleanout access. I thought there would be something similar
to the test plug that would allow me to seal it enough so it would not back
up and I would be able to open it if I ever needed to.

Thanks for the help.


"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:

I think its iron and I don't have access to the full T most of it is
under
the concrete floor. It could be the threads are just rusty and corroded.
I
am going to try and clean them out with a wire brush. If that does not
work
I don't know what I am going to do.



I still can't tell for sure, but it sounds like you're talking about a
drain cleanout access?

If the threads have been destroyed on the fitting and you don't want to
replace it at present, one possible makeshift solution would be to fit a
4" to 3" reducer into the present opening, using an epoxy for sealant to
account for the failed threads. Then plug the 3" opening. Still have
access for cleanout, albeit somewhat restricted, and should be able to
get it to hold water.

The 1-800 plumber type outfits will come out since they are dispatched from
a central location to many "technicians". Some offer 1 hour response for
initial quotes (or 24 hour resopnse) after that they will work with you to
schedule the repair.

Getting an independent plumber to come out and quote on a smallish job is
tough if he already has plenty of work to go around. Just find a bigger
company

Wire brush the threads but they may need to be re-tapped. The tool will
cost about the same as a plumber visit at that point. I have also used an
awl or sharpened screwdriver to scrape out the threads individually
(manually retap the threads)

The original post seems to be missing so I may be missing the point




"Bob" wrote in message
...
Call a plumber?
ouch... Unless you know someone, it's for a business or they do a lot of
work for you they are impossible to get to come out. Don't return phone
calls, etc... Same with electricians. At least in my experience.

It is a drain cleanout access. I thought there would be something similar
to the test plug that would allow me to seal it enough so it would not
back up and I would be able to open it if I ever needed to.

Thanks for the help.


"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:

I think its iron and I don't have access to the full T most of it is
under
the concrete floor. It could be the threads are just rusty and
corroded. I
am going to try and clean them out with a wire brush. If that does not
work
I don't know what I am going to do.



I still can't tell for sure, but it sounds like you're talking about a
drain cleanout access?

If the threads have been destroyed on the fitting and you don't want to
replace it at present, one possible makeshift solution would be to fit a
4" to 3" reducer into the present opening, using an epoxy for sealant to
account for the failed threads. Then plug the 3" opening. Still have
access for cleanout, albeit somewhat restricted, and should be able to
get it to hold water.