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Water-based Polyurethane Finish advice needed
After a day of dry time I expect to finish my newly oil-stained oak
kitchen table. (Actually it's a refinishing job on a nice but not particularly valuable table). Unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm planning to use a waterbase finish, namely Minwax's Polycrylic semi-gloss. (I don't hate ambering, just wanted to give water-based a try). I've been talking so some local DIYers and between them and the instructions on the can, I'm getting some conflicting advice. I'd be thankful if anyone in the group could offer some insight... #1. Of course I want it to look nice, but this table serves a very practical purpose as the main kitchen table and it will suffer some light abuse. Naturally, I want a durable long lasting finish and so I plan to do several coats. Minwax says 3 minimun, but what's the max number of coats I CAN do, and does a large number of coats alter the sand/recoat process in any way? #2. Minwax states recommended time recoating is two hours, but is there a danger of waiting TOO long between coats and does doing so alter the sand/recoat process in any way? #3. Seems the local "pros" in my area all suggest using steel wool. (00) Minwax says avoid it due to the possibility of a loose strand getting caught in the finish and causing a stain in the wood. Is that really something to be concerned about if I'm willing to wipe down the dust after sanding (with a wet rag)? Minwax suggests 220, but I know steel wool will get me a lot smoother. Will chosing one over the other make much of a difference in the final result? Thanks for the advice. I know my questions are a little pickey. Minwax Polycrylic Directions: http://www.minwax.com/products/prote...lic-direct.cfm Polycrylic FAQ: http://www.minwax.com/products/prote...crylic-faq.cfm |
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