After working fine for many years, my garage door opener is having
sporadic problems. Replacing it is going to be costly and problematic,
so I want to take a shot at repairing it instead. Here are the
symptoms:

1) The door will occasionally open or close on its own.
2) The hard-wired wall switch is occasionally unresponsive; pushing the
button has no effect.
3) The remote control seems to work consistently; there's been no
problem with the remote.

From these symptoms, I suspected the wiring on the wall switch. (I
tried the easy and obvious step of changing codes on the remote in case
there was neighborhood interference, but this made no difference.) I
replaced both the wire and the switch itself, but the symptoms
continued. I then disconnected the wire for the switch completely, and
operated the door by remote only for several days. Unfortunately, we
still had the problem where the door would sporadically raise or lower
on its own.

I'm now thinking there's an electrical problem with the switch
connections within the motor casing itself. I unbolted the unit from
the ceiling, lowered it onto a ladder, and removed the cover for
inspection, but I didn't find any obvious problems. Of course, I
wouldn't know what to look for.

Does it sound like I'm on the right track? How can I isolate what the
problem might be? Thanks!

Most switches operate with a metal spring beam that makes contact when
you press the button. If the metal ribbon fatigues over time it will
rest against the contact intermittenly and may make the garage door
open and close. I had this exact problem with my remote. I would
suspect the hard wired wall switch.

Agreed, which is why I replaced the switch, then disconnected it for a
period of time. Unfortunately, the symptoms continued during/after both of
these tests. Hmmmm...

wrote in news:1122769799.778093.214100
@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Most switches operate with a metal spring beam that makes contact when
you press the button. If the metal ribbon fatigues over time it will
rest against the contact intermittenly and may make the garage door
open and close. I had this exact problem with my remote. I would
suspect the hard wired wall switch.

Dave N wrote:

After working fine for many years, my garage door opener is having
sporadic problems. Replacing it is going to be costly and problematic,
so I want to take a shot at repairing it instead. Here are the
symptoms:

1) The door will occasionally open or close on its own.
2) The hard-wired wall switch is occasionally unresponsive; pushing the
button has no effect.
3) The remote control seems to work consistently; there's been no
problem with the remote.

From these symptoms, I suspected the wiring on the wall switch. (I
tried the easy and obvious step of changing codes on the remote in case
there was neighborhood interference, but this made no difference.) I
replaced both the wire and the switch itself, but the symptoms
continued. I then disconnected the wire for the switch completely, and
operated the door by remote only for several days. Unfortunately, we
still had the problem where the door would sporadically raise or lower
on its own.

I'm now thinking there's an electrical problem with the switch
connections within the motor casing itself. I unbolted the unit from
the ceiling, lowered it onto a ladder, and removed the cover for
inspection, but I didn't find any obvious problems. Of course, I
wouldn't know what to look for.

Does it sound like I'm on the right track? How can I isolate what the
problem might be? Thanks!

I realize that you changed your code so this is a long shot but just for
the heck of it walk around your neighborhood with your remote and see if
you can open anyone else's garage door.......you might just find the
problem.

Don

Perhaps faulty wiring from the hard wired switch to the motor

"Dave N" wrote in message
.142...
After working fine for many years, my garage door opener is having
sporadic problems. Replacing it is going to be costly and problematic,
so I want to take a shot at repairing it instead. Here are the
symptoms:

1) The door will occasionally open or close on its own.
2) The hard-wired wall switch is occasionally unresponsive; pushing the
button has no effect.
3) The remote control seems to work consistently; there's been no
problem with the remote.

From these symptoms, I suspected the wiring on the wall switch. (I
tried the easy and obvious step of changing codes on the remote in case
there was neighborhood interference, but this made no difference.) I
replaced both the wire and the switch itself, but the symptoms
continued. I then disconnected the wire for the switch completely, and
operated the door by remote only for several days. Unfortunately, we
still had the problem where the door would sporadically raise or lower
on its own.

I'm now thinking there's an electrical problem with the switch
connections within the motor casing itself. I unbolted the unit from
the ceiling, lowered it onto a ladder, and removed the cover for
inspection, but I didn't find any obvious problems. Of course, I
wouldn't know what to look for.

Does it sound like I'm on the right track? How can I isolate what the
problem might be? Thanks!

Shouldn't have any thing to do with the hard wired switch, but are you
located near a military base. The military recently took back and started
using frequencies that garage door openers use. Sears recently posted a
notice that some older openers would start having difficulties because of
this. I seem to remember that they came up with a retrofit of some kind
that would alleviate the problem. And of course, all new openers now use a
different frequency.
Tom.

How old is this garage door opener? What model?

Shouldn't have any thing to do with the hard wired switch, but are you
located near a military base. The military recently took back and started
using frequencies that garage door openers use. Sears recently posted a
notice that some older openers would start having difficulties because of
this. I seem to remember that they came up with a retrofit of some kind
that would alleviate the problem. And of course, all new openers now use a
different frequency.
Tom.

Ditto........find a way to eliminate the remote signal input. Remove
and/or short the antenna if appropriate. Use the wired switch until
you can reasonably say that a unwanted remote signal is the problem

In alt.home.repair on Sun, 31 Jul 2005 00:00:20 -0400
posted:


Shouldn't have any thing to do with the hard wired switch, but are you
located near a military base. The military recently took back and started
using frequencies that garage door openers use. Sears recently posted a
notice that some older openers would start having difficulties because of
this. I seem to remember that they came up with a retrofit of some kind
that would alleviate the problem. And of course, all new openers now use a
different frequency.
Tom.

Ditto........find a way to eliminate the remote signal input. Remove
and/or short the antenna if appropriate. Use the wired switch until
you can reasonably say that a unwanted remote signal is the problem

I'm glad you guys had an answer. I was stumped.

If your advice about shorting etc. the antenna doesn't work, but he's
certain that's the problem, I'm sure he can open the box and cut out a
part or two until the antenna doesn't work.

Then there's probably a universal remote/receiver whose output will
connect in parallel with the wall button. I have one from a Zenith TV
from 1962 that the OP can have, but they probably make them with
transistors now. (There's always X-10, if nothing simpler)

Meirman
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If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

That sounds reasonable to me. Any idea how I can isolate the problem? I'm
not much of an electrician.

wrote in news:1122778979.676812.214050
@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Perhaps faulty wiring from the hard wired switch to the motor

I can try removing or shorting the antenna, but it doesn't really fit the
symptoms. I did suspect some kind of frequency interference at first, but
that wouldn't explain the problems with the hard-wired switch. And, since
both problems started simultaneously, I believe they have to be related.

I'm not sure how old it is; it was installed when I bought the house 8
years ago, and working fine until now. The house itself is 30 years old.
The opener is a Blue Max brand, but I don't know the model.

wrote in :

How old is this garage door opener? What model?

Dave N wrote:
That sounds reasonable to me. Any idea how I can isolate the
problem? I'm not much of an electrician.

Disconnect the wire at the opener. See if the problem goes away.

Or just replace the wiring from the opener to the switch. It's 12-volt -
nothing special.

I bet some critter knawed part way through the wires causing shorts, opens,
and drips.

He said that he changed the wire & the switch in his original post so
it sounds like a stuck button on a transmitter. When a trans button is
stuck it will sometimes disable the wall button & cause phatom
operation.

Does the problem only happen when a certain vehicle w/ a transmitter is
at the house. If so that would be the one to check. Disconnect the
battery & if the battery is still good re-connect the battery & if the
button is stuck the opener will operate without pushing the button. The
metal tab under the switches tend to flatten out & if it isn't cracked
bend the tab up away from the contact point. If its cracked, replace
the transmitter.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

In alt.home.repair on Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:57:17 -0500 Dave N
posted:

I can try removing or shorting the antenna, but it doesn't really fit the
symptoms. I did suspect some kind of frequency interference at first, but
that wouldn't explain the problems with the hard-wired switch. And, since
both problems started simultaneously, I believe they have to be related.

Yes, I saw your further description.

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

In alt.home.repair on Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:55:12 -0500 Dave N
posted:

That sounds reasonable to me. Any idea how I can isolate the problem? I'm
not much of an electrician.

You said you replaced the wire from the switch. Now it seems you
didn't.

wrote in news:1122778979.676812.214050
:

Perhaps faulty wiring from the hard wired switch to the motor



Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

Good thought, thanks. Unfortunately, that's not it. We've only got one
vehicle and transmitter, and I've changed the battery. Also, the door
opens/closes when the car and transmitter are gone.

Other ideas?

wrote in
oups.com:

He said that he changed the wire & the switch in his original post so
it sounds like a stuck button on a transmitter. When a trans button is
stuck it will sometimes disable the wall button & cause phatom
operation.

Does the problem only happen when a certain vehicle w/ a transmitter
is at the house. If so that would be the one to check. Disconnect the
battery & if the battery is still good re-connect the battery & if the
button is stuck the opener will operate without pushing the button.
The metal tab under the switches tend to flatten out & if it isn't
cracked bend the tab up away from the contact point. If its cracked,
replace the transmitter.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

Yes, I replaced the wire from the switch to the motor casing. This post (I
thought) was referring to the wiring inside the casing, from the terminals
to wherever they go. I'm clueless about the electrical internal stuff, but
I do believe that's where the problem is.

meirman wrote in
:

In alt.home.repair on Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:55:12 -0500 Dave N
posted:

That sounds reasonable to me. Any idea how I can isolate the problem?
I'm not much of an electrician.

You said you replaced the wire from the switch. Now it seems you
didn't.

Then I would suspect that the relay on the receiver is sticking but
make sure that none of the internal wires are being pinched under the
motor cover (but since it is a plastic cover i don't think that would
be the problem).

Disconnect the receiver from the opener & see if the phatom operation
goes away (of course the transmitter won't work). If the problem goes
away try cleaning the relay points or if that fails replace the
receiver.

Doordoc

In alt.home.repair on 30 Jul 2005 20:02:59 -0700
posted:

Perhaps faulty wiring from the hard wired switch to the motor

He meant the same wire you replaced.

I can't see the internal wire shorting. But it's worth opening
something up and looking around. If you unplug this device, I don't
think anything inside will still be "hot" (unlike a TV for example,
where there is still a big eletrical shock waiting for the unwary.)

Look for something that looks burned. I guess lightening can damage
anything in the house. I know somone who lost the refrigerator, 2
fancy phones, and one other thing, I forget.

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.