I reviewed many previous messages and looked at the gas dryer repair
web page but still have questions. I checked the ignitor, 2
soldnoids, flame sensor and the thermal fuse (on back panel) =--all
had continuity. i dont think it has a high temp cut off. the leads to
the ignitor only showed 38v. i also had 120v to the gas valve. drum
turns..but no heat. any ideas. thanks

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 22:12:19 -0400, bill wrote:

I reviewed many previous messages and looked at the gas dryer repair
web page but still have questions. I checked the ignitor, 2
soldnoids, flame sensor and the thermal fuse (on back panel) =--all
had continuity. i dont think it has a high temp cut off. the leads to
the ignitor only showed 38v. i also had 120v to the gas valve. drum
turns..but no heat. any ideas. thanks

Is the gas turned on?

--
If you're not on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
Linux Registered User #327951

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On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 22:12:19 -0400, bill
wrote:

I reviewed many previous messages and looked at the gas dryer repair
web page but still have questions. I checked the ignitor, 2
soldnoids, flame sensor and the thermal fuse (on back panel) =--all
had continuity. i dont think it has a high temp cut off. the leads
to the ignitor only showed 38v. i also had 120v to the gas valve.
drum turns..but no heat. any ideas. thanks

Gas dryers are most difficult to diagnose online.
Especially without a model number!


If igniter cycles on and off every 30 seconds or so, and no fire,
check the split coil assembly on the gas valve, and make sure the
gas is turned on. If one of the coils is weak or dead, it won't
open the main burner valve and keep it open. You might not have to
replace the entire valve - only the coils, depending on your
particular model. The coils can't be checked reliably with an
ohmmeter, because they develop shorted turns internally and become
weak, from fatigue, so the best test is to just replace them. They
are not terribly expensive.

But, if the igniter never glows, check for a loose/burnt/broken
connection in the wiring to the flame sensor and igniter. If it's a
tubular shaped igniter, like on older Kenmore/Whirlpool models, make
sure it is seated well in its holder.

I haven't worked on appliances in pert near 15 years, so I've
forgotten a few model specifics off the top of my head, but if you
post back here with a model number, there are a couple of regular
appliance repair guys in here who really know their stuff.





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--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 22:28:34 -0700, ~^Johnny^~
wrote:

I haven't worked on appliances in pert near 15 years

OOPS! Typo... I meant 5 years, not 15... but it sure feels like 15
sometimes! (and forget the digital sig, too)


--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

bill wrote:
I reviewed many previous messages and looked at the gas dryer repair
web page but still have questions. I checked the ignitor, 2
soldnoids, flame sensor and the thermal fuse (on back panel) =--all
had continuity. i dont think it has a high temp cut off. the leads to
the ignitor only showed 38v. i also had 120v to the gas valve. drum
turns..but no heat. any ideas. thanks

Hi,

Make, model#, approx age?

I checked the ignitor, 2
soldnoids, flame sensor and the thermal fuse (on back panel) =--all
had continuity.

Still leaves....motor heat switch, timer, temp selector switch ( if
used ), operating thermostat(s), safety thermostat(s).

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

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On 27 Jul 2005 04:31:08 -0700, "Appliance Repair Aid"
wrote:

Still leaves....motor heat switch, timer, temp selector switch ( if
used ), operating thermostat(s), safety thermostat(s).


unless his igniter is cycling (getting current)

but he didn't say


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--
-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

thanks, guys. sorry its a Kenmore model 11087870100 22000 btu/h i
got 120v to the gas valves. the ignitor does not glow however when
i shorted across the sensor (flame) the ignitor glowed but the gas
valve didnt open. should the gas valve open when the sensor "sees"
the glow from the ignitor? or does the sensor switch need to open
after it sees the glow ( to allow the gas to come on)?? at this
point i'd think its the flame sensor.....what u think? thanks


On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 09:55:19 -0700, ~^Johnny^~
wrote:

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On 27 Jul 2005 04:31:08 -0700, "Appliance Repair Aid"
wrote:

Still leaves....motor heat switch, timer, temp selector switch ( if
used ), operating thermostat(s), safety thermostat(s).


unless his igniter is cycling (getting current)

but he didn't say


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I worked on a Kenmore with similar symptoms. Needed new coils for the
solenoid on the gas valve. No natural gas work needed, all electric.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"bill" wrote in message
...
I reviewed many previous messages and looked at the gas dryer repair
web page but still have questions. I checked the ignitor, 2
soldnoids, flame sensor and the thermal fuse (on back panel) =--all
had continuity. i dont think it has a high temp cut off. the leads to
the ignitor only showed 38v. i also had 120v to the gas valve. drum
turns..but no heat. any ideas. thanks

bill wrote:
thanks, guys. sorry its a Kenmore model 11087870100 22000 btu/h i
got 120v to the gas valves. the ignitor does not glow however when
i shorted across the sensor (flame) the ignitor glowed but the gas
valve didnt open. should the gas valve open when the sensor "sees"
the glow from the ignitor? or does the sensor switch need to open
after it sees the glow ( to allow the gas to come on)?? at this
point i'd think its the flame sensor.....what u think? thanks

Hi,

Flame sensor sounds bad!!

when
i shorted across the sensor (flame) the ignitor glowed but the gas
valve didnt open.

It shouldn't have, the sensor must be closed and opens up at a specific
time.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=2681
Gas dryer sensor for igniter and flame.

jeff
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Its solved. I replaced (for testing purposes) the sensor switch with
a switch i could operate by a turn knob. after the ignitor glowed, i
turned the switch and gas flowed. i will replace the radiant sensor
tomorrow. thanks for all the insights and discussion. it was fun.
bill

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 23:42:06 GMT, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I worked on a Kenmore with similar symptoms. Needed new coils for the
solenoid on the gas valve. No natural gas work needed, all electric.

In alt.home.repair on Wed, 27 Jul 2005 17:32:48 -0400 bill
posted:

thanks, guys. sorry its a Kenmore model 11087870100 22000 btu/h i
got 120v to the gas valves.

I see it's fixed now, but for something next time, you shouldn't stop
with the voltage. Unplug it and check the resistance across the gas
valves. It shouldn't be zero ohms on the lowest scale and they
shouldn't be infinity. (shorted and open). I'm sure that even if it
is inbetween the electric part of the valve could be bad, and
certainly the mechanical part, but that would be rare. Most failures
of most simple electrical things are opens or shorts.

P&M

the ignitor does not glow however when
i shorted across the sensor (flame) the ignitor glowed but the gas
valve didnt open. should the gas valve open when the sensor "sees"
the glow from the ignitor? or does the sensor switch need to open
after it sees the glow ( to allow the gas to come on)?? at this
point i'd think its the flame sensor.....what u think? thanks


On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 09:55:19 -0700, ~^Johnny^~
wrote:

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On 27 Jul 2005 04:31:08 -0700, "Appliance Repair Aid"
wrote:

Still leaves....motor heat switch, timer, temp selector switch ( if
used ), operating thermostat(s), safety thermostat(s).


unless his igniter is cycling (getting current)

but he didn't say


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Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.