Stapling sounds like a fast way to fasten felt to roof planks. Is it
more likely to leak than nailing? (A roofing nail has a head, but maybe
the felt seals better around the leg of a staple.)

What length staples should be used? Where should they be placed?

Dont use staples with "paper" thin felt, will just tear out.

On heavier grade ie with granules on, or polyester based felt should be
ok.
Regards depth of staple suggest you experiment but obvioulsy
deeper the better regards holding felt down in adverse weather.

Choreboy wrote:
Stapling sounds like a fast way to fasten felt to roof planks. Is it
more likely to leak than nailing? (A roofing nail has a head, but
maybe the felt seals better around the leg of a staple.)

What length staples should be used? Where should they be placed?

Remember that it will be the shingles that will hold it in place once it
is done. If you were careful and had no wind, you could put the felt down
with no fashioners add the shingles and it would be fine.

Don't worry so much.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

On Wed, 13 Jul 2005 22:57:33 -0400, Choreboy
scribbled this interesting note:

Stapling sounds like a fast way to fasten felt to roof planks. Is it
more likely to leak than nailing? (A roofing nail has a head, but maybe
the felt seals better around the leg of a staple.)

What length staples should be used? Where should they be placed?

Felt needs to be fastened down. Some installers use a hammer tacker
with short staples, 1/2" or so.

When we install felt we use what are known as "tin caps." They are
called this because they once (and sometimes still are) little more
than mis-cut metal bottle caps. We prefer the ones that are 1 5/8" in
diameter, although you can buy them up to two inches in diameter. We
use Paslode roofing pneumatic staple guns and over good, clean, strong
decking 7/8" or 1" roofing staples are sufficient.

Depending on how long the felt will provide the only protection for
the roof, and current weather conditions (just a part of a day or over
night or longer, and windy and/or rain expected) determines the
placement and number of fasteners needed. Put the tin cap where you
want it, shoot a staple through it, and move on to the next. If it is
overnight or windy or rainy, the fasteners need to be closer together.
If the roof is steep the fasteners need to be closer together.

Don't worry about leaks. Once you get shingles installed that is your
primary water protection. At that point, the felt merely helps carry
off the occasional drop or two that may penetrate the shingles in rare
weather conditions (exceptionally windy rainstorm, etc.) What is more
important than the fasteners used to install the felt is to make sure
the felt is installed correctly.


--
John Willis

(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Choreboy wrote:

Stapling sounds like a fast way to fasten felt to roof planks. Is it
more likely to leak than nailing? (A roofing nail has a head, but
maybe
the felt seals better around the leg of a staple.)
What length staples should be used? Where should they be placed?

Just be careful walking on the stapled felt, especially if the roof has
much pitch to it. It'll tear, and you'll go sliding off. I recommend
inch and a quarter nails through 30# felt for dangerous pitches. Tom

tom wrote:

Choreboy wrote:

Stapling sounds like a fast way to fasten felt to roof planks. Is it
more likely to leak than nailing? (A roofing nail has a head, but
maybe
the felt seals better around the leg of a staple.)
What length staples should be used? Where should they be placed?

Just be careful walking on the stapled felt, especially if the roof has
much pitch to it. It'll tear, and you'll go sliding off. I recommend
inch and a quarter nails through 30# felt for dangerous pitches. Tom

My BIL used shingle nails about that long, so I guess he was right and I
was wrong. What do you think of the tin tabs mentioned above, with the
1" washers?

What's a dangerous pitch? My roof is 6/12. I find it significantly
worse than the
porch's 5/12. In the past I've used a rope when working near the eaves.
I want to use roof jacks for peace of mind and convenience. My BIL is
against it.

To make room for ladders, I've cut back the old azaleas below the eaves.
The pruned stubs are thicker than broomsticks. That gives me a strong
motive to avoid falling.

Choreboy wrote:
tom wrote:

Choreboy wrote:

Stapling sounds like a fast way to fasten felt to roof planks. Is it
more likely to leak than nailing? (A roofing nail has a head, but
maybe
the felt seals better around the leg of a staple.)
What length staples should be used? Where should they be placed?

Just be careful walking on the stapled felt, especially if the roof has
much pitch to it. It'll tear, and you'll go sliding off. I recommend
inch and a quarter nails through 30# felt for dangerous pitches. Tom

My BIL used shingle nails about that long, so I guess he was right and I
was wrong. What do you think of the tin tabs mentioned above, with the
1" washers?


Overkill if you are covering the felt the same day you lay it. The
discussion of useing them is for weathering in a roof with felt that
won't be covered for a day or two (or longer). Staples (1/2") in a
swing tacker is all that is required in your case.


What's a dangerous pitch? My roof is 6/12. I find it significantly
worse than the
porch's 5/12. In the past I've used a rope when working near the eaves.
I want to use roof jacks for peace of mind and convenience. My BIL is
against it.

What is his objection? They are a standard tool for working on roofs.
I roofed my house 5/12 without them but that is a fairly mild pitch. I
re-roofed two sheds and the garage last year at about 6/12 and used
them. I wouldn't consider not using them on that pitch. While you
-can- work a 6/12 without them, you will be constantly worried about
your traction and balance.

snip

Harry K

"Harry K" wrote in message
ups.com...


Choreboy wrote:
What's a dangerous pitch? My roof is 6/12. I find it significantly
worse than the
porch's 5/12. In the past I've used a rope when working near the eaves.
I want to use roof jacks for peace of mind and convenience. My BIL is
against it.

What is his objection?

maybe he wants Choreboy to fall off?

replying to Joseph Meehan, Cliff wrote:
I used staples for the underfelt membrane and for under the overlap on the
felt itself. This makes life much easier - but be sure to use stainless steel
staples. On all the exposed felt I use the usual galvanised felt roofing
nails with the large heads.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...elt-12834-.htm

, Cliff Claven wrote:
but be sure to use stainless steel staples.


Why ? - do you think that the regular staples will rust away
before you apply the roofing ? :-)
John T.