I have a concrete deck on the second floor and every time it rains the water
will leak into the first floor. Why would anyone put a deck above another
finished floor and of all things concrete? Anyway, I have removed the
concrete down to the wood deck subfloor. Now I don't know what to use to
make the deck water tight. The deck must support people walking on it and
equipment as a BBQ, lawn furniture and such. Dex-O-Tex, Mer-Kote or other?
Has anyone found an acceptable solution as to the kind of material and
durability? TIA

"Fred" wrote in message
...
I have a concrete deck on the second floor and every time it rains the
water
will leak into the first floor. Why would anyone put a deck above another
finished floor and of all things concrete? Anyway, I have removed the
concrete down to the wood deck subfloor. Now I don't know what to use to
make the deck water tight. The deck must support people walking on it and
equipment as a BBQ, lawn furniture and such. Dex-O-Tex, Mer-Kote or other?
Has anyone found an acceptable solution as to the kind of material and
durability? TIA

No DIY suggestions, but sounds like you need one of those pro-installed
membrane decking systems- essentially a heavy-duty membrane roof with a
non-skid walkable top surface. All of this assumes a strong enough roof
surface, and suitable flashing where deck section meets second-floor
section. Can't see from here, but common problem with decks like you
have/had is insufficent drainage and/or a low spot. Water ponds, and will
always find a way out. Scuttles at edge, and even an internally-plumbed
center drain, may be called for. If you have enough height between door to
second floor and the actual roof below, the more traditional approach would
be a slightly sloped metal or mopped roof, with a floating deck on sleepers
or flashed posts above it, but that is likely to be very heavy compared to a
membrane roof. Whatever final weather surface is, it can't be dead-flat -
you need at least the slight slope that a ground level patio has, from high
point to drain point. If small, slope entire deck slightly from 2nd floor
wall, if large, a slight peak down centerline. If very large, or parapet
walls involved, need to shape roof to flow to scuttles and/or center catch
box and drain.

At this price point, I'd go for pro advice from an architect with expertise
in unusal roofs, or at least a professional engineer. An experienced roofing
company may be able to seat-of-the-pants it, but a real engineer would make
your insurance company happier. The solution ain't gonna be cheap in any
case.

Wild alternative, if your budget allows- enclose the deck with a glass
sunroom with a sloped roof.

aem sends...