My house was built in 1989. Most of the builder grade, double pane,
double hung, aluminum frame windows have ruptured seals and are fogged
up. I am considering repacing them myself but have no idea how to
remove them.

The original windows seem to have a flange that has been nailed to the
sheathing before the siding was put on. The house has aluminum siding
and also brick veneer, and I don't want to damage either when tearing
out the old windows.

The interior is drywall boxed in around the window openings with a sill
made of a corian looking material. Damaging the drywall would be easy
enough to fix, but I'd like to avoid that too.

I take on a lot of home repair projects and get good results, and I
assume I have all the tools I need. I just need some direction here as
to how to start.

One final question, and I suppose this is something all DIY people need
to ask themselves at one time or another: Will there be any real
savings buying windows from Home Depot and installing them myself vs
ordering from one of the many local companies, who I assume get them
bulk for better prices, and letting their crew install them?

Thanks,
Christopher

I would look at the Andersen window site. They make a line of windows for
replacement purposes. See if they have instructions posted or they will
email them to you.


wrote in message
oups.com...
My house was built in 1989. Most of the builder grade, double pane,
double hung, aluminum frame windows have ruptured seals and are fogged
up. I am considering repacing them myself but have no idea how to
remove them.

The original windows seem to have a flange that has been nailed to the
sheathing before the siding was put on. The house has aluminum siding
and also brick veneer, and I don't want to damage either when tearing
out the old windows.

The interior is drywall boxed in around the window openings with a sill
made of a corian looking material. Damaging the drywall would be easy
enough to fix, but I'd like to avoid that too.

I take on a lot of home repair projects and get good results, and I
assume I have all the tools I need. I just need some direction here as
to how to start.

One final question, and I suppose this is something all DIY people need
to ask themselves at one time or another: Will there be any real
savings buying windows from Home Depot and installing them myself vs
ordering from one of the many local companies, who I assume get them
bulk for better prices, and letting their crew install them?

Thanks,
Christopher

wrote in message
oups.com...
My house was built in 1989. Most of the builder grade, double pane,
double hung, aluminum frame windows have ruptured seals and are fogged
up. I am considering repacing them myself but have no idea how to
remove them.

The original windows seem to have a flange that has been nailed to the
sheathing before the siding was put on. The house has aluminum siding
and also brick veneer, and I don't want to damage either when tearing
out the old windows.

The interior is drywall boxed in around the window openings with a sill
made of a corian looking material. Damaging the drywall would be easy
enough to fix, but I'd like to avoid that too.

I take on a lot of home repair projects and get good results, and I
assume I have all the tools I need. I just need some direction here as
to how to start.

One final question, and I suppose this is something all DIY people need
to ask themselves at one time or another: Will there be any real
savings buying windows from Home Depot and installing them myself vs
ordering from one of the many local companies, who I assume get them
bulk for better prices, and letting their crew install them?

Thanks,
Christopher


You can just replace the glass units without replacing the frames. Or if you
want to get rid of the aluminum frames and replace with more efficient or
better looking frames it can be done easier than it looks.
First, get the exact measurements of the windows you are going to replace.
Order them, most places charge about $5 more to order them without the
flange, or you can get them with the flange and score it with a knife and
snap it off. (measure the new ones when you get them if you get them at
Home Depot, two of the ones I ordered came the wrong size.)

Remove the glass units from the old frame, sawsall the old frame in two in
the middle at the top and bottom and also cut out the center piece if they
are sliders. Pry the bottom pieces up and the top pieces down and then the
sides out. The old flanges will come out with the frame.

The new units slide right into the hole and are shimmed and drilled in about
3 places on each side and attached with screws to the jam. Caulk the outside
and seal from the inside and put the trim back on.
I did 5 of them last summer in one day. (minus the trim) The only slight
damage was to the sheetrock in a couple of places that were small enough to
fix with fixall.

CR

wrote:
My house was built in 1989. Most of the builder grade, double pane,
double hung, aluminum frame windows have ruptured seals and are fogged
up. I am considering repacing them myself but have no idea how to
remove them.

The original windows seem to have a flange that has been nailed to the
sheathing before the siding was put on. The house has aluminum siding
and also brick veneer, and I don't want to damage either when tearing
out the old windows.

The interior is drywall boxed in around the window openings with a sill
made of a corian looking material. Damaging the drywall would be easy
enough to fix, but I'd like to avoid that too.

I take on a lot of home repair projects and get good results, and I
assume I have all the tools I need. I just need some direction here as
to how to start.

One final question, and I suppose this is something all DIY people need
to ask themselves at one time or another: Will there be any real
savings buying windows from Home Depot and installing them myself vs
ordering from one of the many local companies, who I assume get them
bulk for better prices, and letting their crew install them?

Thanks,
Christopher


I have a half height brick veneer also and since I
didn't know how to do it I hired a window guy to
put in the three front windows. I was amazed at
how simple it was. You just collapse the frame by
drilling holes in the aluminum and then use a
come along to put the sides together. Essentially
it pulls the nail out of the wood, no damage to
the siding or the brick. Then remove the flange on
the new windows (see CR response) set the frames
in drill holes in the frame and use screws to hold
the frames in. Sealing can be a bit of problem
but basically use caulk, If you can leave a bit
of the flange on the frame it will help and then
overlap with a bit of waterproof material, i.e.,
#30 felt, heavy vinyl, etc. You may find that the
new widow frames also set back more which will
require cutting the inside wall board and your sill.

In my case, I bought the other windows and
installed them, but I also cut the siding back
(wouldn't want to do that with brick) and then
made 1-1/4 molding that goes around the window,
with grooves that are filled with ground to finish
off the window. I still removed the flanges and
installed with screw to make the windows fit with
a about 1/2" stand out from the surface of the
siding. Worked very well, but you need a saw and
router to make the molding from 2x4s and a sense
of what would look good.

The cost of having it done will be about 3 times
the cost of buying the windows at HD. You might
want to have someone do a window or two and watch
what they do before you decide to do it yourself.

BTW. There is no comparison between old aluminum
frame windows and new vinyl for insulation and
sound reduction.

christopher wrote "My house was built in 1989. Most of the builder
grade, double pane, double hung, aluminum frame windows have ruptured
seals and are fogged up. I am considering repacing them myself but have
no idea how to remove them.
The original windows seem to have a flange that has been nailed to the
sheathing before the siding was put on. The house has aluminum siding
and also brick veneer, and I don't want to damage either when tearing
out the old windows.
The interior is drywall boxed in around the window openings with a sill
made of a corian looking material. Damaging the drywall would be easy
enough to fix, but I'd like to avoid that too.
I take on a lot of home repair projects and get good results, and I
assume I have all the tools I need. I just need some direction here as
to how to start.
One final question, and I suppose this is something all DIY people need
to ask themselves at one time or another: Will there be any real savings
buying windows from Home Depot and installing them myself vs ordering
from one of the many local companies, who I assume get them bulk for
better prices, and letting their crew install them?
Thanks,
Christopher"......
....... i also have a 1oo year old house. i bought a couple 2 pane
vynile windows from home depot.... i then saw some windows that were
installed by window world for 189.00 installed. and they were better
quality than the 3oo+ ones i got frome hd . so i had window world put
in the rest. i added low e glass for 30.00 ea and it was worth it. lucas

Windows in brick are supposed to be flashed and with weepholes on top.


"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...
wrote:
My house was built in 1989. Most of the builder grade, double pane,
double hung, aluminum frame windows have ruptured seals and are fogged
up. I am considering repacing them myself but have no idea how to
remove them.

The original windows seem to have a flange that has been nailed to the
sheathing before the siding was put on. The house has aluminum siding
and also brick veneer, and I don't want to damage either when tearing
out the old windows.

The interior is drywall boxed in around the window openings with a sill
made of a corian looking material. Damaging the drywall would be easy
enough to fix, but I'd like to avoid that too.

I take on a lot of home repair projects and get good results, and I
assume I have all the tools I need. I just need some direction here as
to how to start.

One final question, and I suppose this is something all DIY people need
to ask themselves at one time or another: Will there be any real
savings buying windows from Home Depot and installing them myself vs
ordering from one of the many local companies, who I assume get them
bulk for better prices, and letting their crew install them?

Thanks,
Christopher


I have a half height brick veneer also and since I didn't know how to do
it I hired a window guy to put in the three front windows. I was amazed
at how simple it was. You just collapse the frame by drilling holes in
the aluminum and then use a come along to put the sides together.
Essentially it pulls the nail out of the wood, no damage to the siding or
the brick. Then remove the flange on the new windows (see CR response) set
the frames in drill holes in the frame and use screws to hold the frames
in. Sealing can be a bit of problem but basically use caulk, If you can
leave a bit of the flange on the frame it will help and then overlap with
a bit of waterproof material, i.e., #30 felt, heavy vinyl, etc. You may
find that the new widow frames also set back more which will require
cutting the inside wall board and your sill.

In my case, I bought the other windows and installed them, but I also cut
the siding back (wouldn't want to do that with brick) and then made 1-1/4
molding that goes around the window, with grooves that are filled with
ground to finish off the window. I still removed the flanges and
installed with screw to make the windows fit with a about 1/2" stand out
from the surface of the siding. Worked very well, but you need a saw and
router to make the molding from 2x4s and a sense of what would look good.

The cost of having it done will be about 3 times the cost of buying the
windows at HD. You might want to have someone do a window or two and
watch what they do before you decide to do it yourself.

BTW. There is no comparison between old aluminum frame windows and new
vinyl for insulation and sound reduction.

As far as why I planned to replace the whole window instead of just the
glass units, I assumed that the cost would be about the same or it
would be a hassle to find a company that would do such a thing.
Perhaps I was wrong. I will check around.

Christopher