I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.

JimL wrote:
I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.

Proper cut, proper cut and proper cut along with a little glue and a
brad or two.

Properly cut is a little art and a lot of measurement.

Get a book that covers crown and other molding and it will give you the
specific instructions. Note: changing humidity and temperature are
problems. Having some painters putty handy is a good idea.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

"JimL" wrote in message
...

I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.



Patience. Lots of patience, and a decent mitre box or powered equivalent. I
find the non-electric tool to be more useful because the saw's blade is
thinner, so you can make finer corrections. If you need to remove "a hair's
worth" of wood, it's easier. Disclaimer: I've never used a powered mitre
saw, and I'm sure there are people who can do fine surgery with them, but
not me.

Doug Kanter wrote:
"JimL" wrote in message
...

I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.



Patience. Lots of patience, and a decent mitre box or powered equivalent. I
find the non-electric tool to be more useful because the saw's blade is
thinner, so you can make finer corrections. If you need to remove "a hair's
worth" of wood, it's easier. Disclaimer: I've never used a powered mitre
saw, and I'm sure there are people who can do fine surgery with them, but
not me.

It's standard procedure to shave off 1/32" or less with a chop saw.
The width of the saw blade has nothing to do with the accuracy of a
correction. Claimer: I use both power and hand tools, prefer hand
tools, but use what works best.

R

JimL wrote:
I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.

Since you're painting it you have lots of options. If you truly want
the joint to be seamless, then you're looking at gluing the joint
(polyurethane or epoxy) and then sanding and/or filling. Prime the
trim and fine tune before finish painting.

R

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 05:24:46 -0500, JimL wrote:


I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.


I guess a 45 cut on the mitre saw and then elmers wood glue after
eyeballing , eh?

"JimL" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 05:24:46 -0500, JimL wrote:


I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.


I guess a 45 cut on the mitre saw and then elmers wood glue after
eyeballing , eh?

.....and don't do what I did, when I first tried cutting toe molding. I won't
even go into it. Way too embarrassing.

dont you just love doing those crown corners?
"JimL" wrote in message
...

I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.

"JimL" wrote

I guess a 45 cut on the mitre saw and then elmers wood glue after
eyeballing , eh?

Try a 22-1/2 degree. you don't get as long as cut. Also, if you're going to
have to overlap, start in corner away from main entries, and finish with
pieces closet to majority of traffic flow . It's commonly done with
interior use and exterior use such as siding.

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:27:31 GMT, "I R Baboon"
wrote:

dont you just love doing those crown corners?

Actually, my daughter installed the crown molding in most of the
house by laying it flat against the wall. But I am going to do at
least one small bedroom where I have to use the coping saw, like I saw
on 'This old house'.



"JimL" wrote in message
.. .

I need some suggestions on how to join crown molding and door molding
and floor molding.
I don't own a fancy tool that will cut biscuits or any such thing.
But when I join sections, I'd like the joint to disappear when
painted.

jiml wrote:

Actually, my daughter installed the crown molding in most of the
house by laying it flat against the wall. But I am going to do at
least one small bedroom where I have to use the coping saw, like I saw
on 'This old house'.

Well, if you're successful, and if you take your time you should be,
you'll end up making your daughter's work look bad. Two-edged sword,
no?

R

I would like to address this to all of the replys above. There is not any
reason that making a perfect fitting joint in any trim/crown should be a
trial and error or even a coped joint. Most of the books on trim work
still use the coped method. There is one book however that actually tells
the beginner (and the pro) excatly how to make the perfect cut for any
corner including installing crown on a sloped ceiling. Also, free online
tech support is available from the book author. Visit us at
www.compoundmiter.com if you would like to know exactly how to use that
expensive compound miter saw as it was intended to be used.



Do-It-Yourself Crown Molding & Trim: Install It Like A PRO!

Sincerely yours
Wayne Drake, President
CompoundMiter, Inc.

"CompoundMiter" wrote in message
news:5e02484e8323fd6db07fb5f0180adb9e@homerepairli ve.com...
I would like to address this to all of the replys above. There is not any
reason that making a perfect fitting joint in any trim/crown should be a
trial and error or even a coped joint.

All they have to do is buy your $100 kit. Funny how you posted your
advertisement here four times