I just bought a new Sears Radial Arm Saw. My big
question is: Does any body have any experience and
suggestions with how to remove and replace the blade
guard easily. The problem is that screw that has to be
removed/replaced at the bottom of the inner blade guard?
So far my efforts are very frustrating. It is so
close to the teeth of the blade that it is almost
impossible to get it in or out without getting alls
scratched up on the blade. I have managed to do it
several times now in process of installing the saw, but
it sure isn't my favorite activity.

Also, is that laser tracker any use? I can see that it
would be good if it showed you where the blade was going
to cut, but it is off set to the side of the blade.
That means that you need to make all your measurement
off set. So I will probably just go ahead and keep on
marking the board and then use the position of the blade
as the guide.

Thanks,

Bill Gill

"Bill" wrote in message
news
I just bought a new Sears Radial Arm Saw. My big question is: Does any
body have any experience and suggestions with how to remove and replace the
blade guard easily.

If you don't get a reply here, post on rec.woodworking


Also, is that laser tracker any use? I can see that it would be good if
it showed you where the blade was going to cut, but it is off set to the
side of the blade. That means that you need to make all your measurement
off set.

Is it adjustable? The lasers are of dubious value, IMO. It is supposed to
show the kerf of the blade so you can see where the actual cut is made.
That way, you put your cut line to one side or the other to make the cut.
If it is at least consistant you still may be able to use it.

Also post to rec.woodworking but be aware Sears is not looked on
fondly by many in that NG.

On Sun, 22 May 2005 13:36:21 GMT, Bill wrote:

I just bought a new Sears Radial Arm Saw. My big
question is: Does any body have any experience and
suggestions with how to remove and replace the blade
guard easily. The problem is that screw that has to be
removed/replaced at the bottom of the inner blade guard?
So far my efforts are very frustrating. It is so
close to the teeth of the blade that it is almost
impossible to get it in or out without getting alls
scratched up on the blade. I have managed to do it
several times now in process of installing the saw, but
it sure isn't my favorite activity.

Also, is that laser tracker any use? I can see that it
would be good if it showed you where the blade was going
to cut, but it is off set to the side of the blade.
That means that you need to make all your measurement
off set. So I will probably just go ahead and keep on
marking the board and then use the position of the blade
as the guide.

Thanks,

Bill Gill

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Also, is that laser tracker any use? I can see that it would be good if
it showed you where the blade was going to cut, but it is off set to the
side of the blade. That means that you need to make all your measurement
off set.


Is it adjustable? The lasers are of dubious value, IMO. It is supposed to
show the kerf of the blade so you can see where the actual cut is made.
That way, you put your cut line to one side or the other to make the cut.
If it is at least consistant you still may be able to use it.




I rechecked it. It has a parallax problem. The laser
isn't perfectly in line with the blade, so where it hits
depends on how far from the blade hub the line is. It
looks like it might almost work, but I don't think I
would try to use it on any really precision work.

Bill Gill

I just barely touch the left side of the line on both my RSA and chop saw
and it is dead-on.


"Bill" wrote in message
. ..
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Also, is that laser tracker any use? I can see that it would be good if
it showed you where the blade was going to cut, but it is off set to the
side of the blade. That means that you need to make all your measurement
off set.


Is it adjustable? The lasers are of dubious value, IMO. It is supposed
to
show the kerf of the blade so you can see where the actual cut is made.
That way, you put your cut line to one side or the other to make the
cut.
If it is at least consistant you still may be able to use it.




I rechecked it. It has a parallax problem. The laser
isn't perfectly in line with the blade, so where it hits
depends on how far from the blade hub the line is. It
looks like it might almost work, but I don't think I
would try to use it on any really precision work.

Bill Gill