I hope someone can help me. I was given a Sears Radial Arm Saw that
does not work. The model number is 113.197750. When I turn it on, the
motor hums but does not turn. I turn the motor when it is on and it
turns freely but will not spin on its own.

I have done some searching on Google and tried some of their solutions
without success. I took the motor apart and cleaned out all the
sawdust. In addition, I banged on the arbor as someone mentioned but
it did not fix anything. All the copper wiring on the motor that I can
see looks new. There are no dark or burned spots on the copper.

I tried a multimeter on the incoming power and it is getting 120 volts.
The strange thing is that the leads to the capacitor do not register
any power when the motor is on. I checked it a few times and the best
it showed was 1 volt but it quickly went to zero. On one try when I
left the motor on for a few seconds, the motor turned 1/4 revolution
then stopped. I could not get it to turn anymore on its own. Does
that mean it needs a new capacitor? I am not very knowledgable with a
multimeter but think I checked it correctly.

I would love to get the saw working as it is in great condition and I
learned that a free repair kit is available since the saw has been
recalled. Any help anyone can offer would be appreciated.

There is pretty well no doubt that the starting winding is not being
engaged. I have had mine do exactly the same thing several times and
MY solution was to blow high pressure air into the housing which I am
sure just dislodged some debris from the starting centrifugal switch.
After that, it worked like a charm. I don't know what year yours
represents, but mine is over 30 years old. I have never changed out
the starting capacitor, but from your measurements, I would say your
problem is the same. Test the impedance across the centrifugal switch
contacts. If they are open, you need to clean them. That may be no
more than just wiping debris from between the contacts. If that does
not work, take some fine (600 grit) sandpaper and fold it in half with
the grit out on each side. Place the paper between the contacts and
see-saw the paper between the contacts to clean them. If the impedance
is 0 when you measure the impedance, trace the starting winding to see
if you can detect a brake.

Are you sure the motor is wired for 110? Sounds like a symptom of a 220
wired motor being plugged into 110.

Don

wrote in message
ups.com...
I hope someone can help me. I was given a Sears Radial Arm Saw that
does not work. The model number is 113.197750. When I turn it on, the
motor hums but does not turn. I turn the motor when it is on and it
turns freely but will not spin on its own.

I have done some searching on Google and tried some of their solutions
without success. I took the motor apart and cleaned out all the
sawdust. In addition, I banged on the arbor as someone mentioned but
it did not fix anything. All the copper wiring on the motor that I can
see looks new. There are no dark or burned spots on the copper.

I tried a multimeter on the incoming power and it is getting 120 volts.
The strange thing is that the leads to the capacitor do not register
any power when the motor is on. I checked it a few times and the best
it showed was 1 volt but it quickly went to zero. On one try when I
left the motor on for a few seconds, the motor turned 1/4 revolution
then stopped. I could not get it to turn anymore on its own. Does
that mean it needs a new capacitor? I am not very knowledgable with a
multimeter but think I checked it correctly.

I would love to get the saw working as it is in great condition and I
learned that a free repair kit is available since the saw has been
recalled. Any help anyone can offer would be appreciated.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I hope someone can help me. I was given a Sears Radial Arm Saw that
does not work. The model number is 113.197750. When I turn it on, the
motor hums but does not turn. I turn the motor when it is on and it
turns freely but will not spin on its own.



That motor uses a centifical switch and a capacitor to run. Either one could
be bad. The capacitor may be the easist to just replace, any motor shop
should have one for less than $10. The centrifical switch may be more
diffecult as it requires some dissassemly of the motor.
Greg

Thanks for all your help. I will try the compressed air from my
compressor tomorrow. I had used a small can of air but I do not think
it did a great job. Higher pressure air might do the job.

I am not sure what the centrifical switch looks like. Can anyone
describe it or where it is located on the motor? I looked at the part
sheet for the motor on Sear's web site but it does not list a part
called a cetrifical switch.

BTW, I figure the saw is about 20 years old.

Thanks again.

Glen

Greg O wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
I hope someone can help me. I was given a Sears Radial Arm Saw
that
does not work. The model number is 113.197750. When I turn it on,
the
motor hums but does not turn. I turn the motor when it is on and
it
turns freely but will not spin on its own.



That motor uses a centifical switch and a capacitor to run. Either
one could
be bad. The capacitor may be the easist to just replace, any motor
shop
should have one for less than $10. The centrifical switch may be more
diffecult as it requires some dissassemly of the motor.
Greg

wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for all your help. I will try the compressed air from my
compressor tomorrow. I had used a small can of air but I do not think
it did a great job. Higher pressure air might do the job.

I am not sure what the centrifical switch looks like. Can anyone
describe it or where it is located on the motor? I looked at the part
sheet for the motor on Sear's web site but it does not list a part
called a cetrifical switch.

The centrifugal switch is inside the motor. It isn't surprising that they
don't list it in the parts diagram.
An electric motor repair place would be your best bet to find the correct
part.

What the switch does is disconnect the start winding when the motor gets up
to about 75% full speed.

If this switch is does not engage, then the motor will not start with
external aid (which might be a bit dangerous).
If the capacitor is bad, the motor will not start either.
Jim

The centrifical switch is in the end of the motor. If I remember correctly,
it is in the end oposite the saw blade. There is a set of weights that swing
out as the motor comes up to speed which moves a hard plastic ring. The
movement of the ring operates a switch contact. The switch contacts should
be closed when the motor isn't running, but should open to disconnect the
capacitor and start winding when the motor reaches about 1000 RPM.

--
Charley


wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for all your help. I will try the compressed air from my
compressor tomorrow. I had used a small can of air but I do not think
it did a great job. Higher pressure air might do the job.

I am not sure what the centrifical switch looks like. Can anyone
describe it or where it is located on the motor? I looked at the part
sheet for the motor on Sear's web site but it does not list a part
called a cetrifical switch.

BTW, I figure the saw is about 20 years old.

Thanks again.

Glen

Greg O wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
I hope someone can help me. I was given a Sears Radial Arm Saw
that
does not work. The model number is 113.197750. When I turn it on,
the
motor hums but does not turn. I turn the motor when it is on and
it
turns freely but will not spin on its own.



That motor uses a centifical switch and a capacitor to run. Either
one could
be bad. The capacitor may be the easist to just replace, any motor
shop
should have one for less than $10. The centrifical switch may be more
diffecult as it requires some dissassemly of the motor.
Greg

I tried my compressor to blow air on the motor but it did not help. I
think taking the motor apart to find the cetrifical switch is a little
over my head. I will try replacing the capacitor first and see if that
helps.

I do have another quesiton. I found a part on the saw motor that looks
like it should be connected to something that it currently is not. If
possible, please see pictures of the motor on the following:

http://www.geocities.com/gtannenb/Motor1.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/gtannenb/Motor2.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/gtannenb/Motor3.JPG

The part in question is in the first picture and it is the two copper
leads coming out of the clear plastic casing. It is located on the
back end of the motor and appears that it has solder on it. Should it
be connected to something and/or could it be causing my problems?

Thanks for all the help.

Glen

Jim wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for all your help. I will try the compressed air from my
compressor tomorrow. I had used a small can of air but I do not
think
it did a great job. Higher pressure air might do the job.

I am not sure what the centrifical switch looks like. Can anyone
describe it or where it is located on the motor? I looked at the
part
sheet for the motor on Sear's web site but it does not list a part
called a cetrifical switch.

The centrifugal switch is inside the motor. It isn't surprising that
they
don't list it in the parts diagram.
An electric motor repair place would be your best bet to find the
correct
part.

What the switch does is disconnect the start winding when the motor
gets up
to about 75% full speed.

If this switch is does not engage, then the motor will not start with
external aid (which might be a bit dangerous).
If the capacitor is bad, the motor will not start either.
Jim

wrote in message
oups.com...

The part in question is in the first picture and it is the two copper
leads coming out of the clear plastic casing. It is located on the
back end of the motor and appears that it has solder on it. Should it
be connected to something and/or could it be causing my problems?

Thanks for all the help.

Glen


It could be the start switch! Is it possible someone tried to fix this motor
before you got it? I see a yellow wire nut that looks out of place too. Most
factory connections are spade connections, wire nuts are not typical.

Maybe time to take it to a motor shop!

Have you checked to see if this saw falls into the safty recall that Sears
has out? You may just want to collect the $100 from the recall and move on!
Greg

OK, now I feel like an idiot. I was looking at the motor again
tonight and realized that per the instructions on the main wiring
block, it was wired for 240 volts. Once I changed it to 120 volts, the
motor started right up. I am not sure if there is any torque on the
motor as it was disassebled and I did not feel like putting my hand on
it when it was disassembled.

This does raise a few questions that maybe someone can help me with.

1. Since it was set to 240 volts on the wiring block, are there any
other changes made to the motor to get it to work with 240 volts?

2. I was surprised to see that it still had a 120 volt plug on the
motor. Does this indicate that someone was probably playing with the
motor and not really using it for 240 volts? I thought that it would
need a new plug to be used in a 240 volt outlet?

3. Does this have anything to do with the possible disconnected part I
mentioned in my previous posting?

I will put the saw back together in the next few days and test it out.
As I mentioned, I hoped to get it working because it is recalled but I
am eligible for an upgrade kit and not the $100.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Glen


Greg O wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

The part in question is in the first picture and it is the two
copper
leads coming out of the clear plastic casing. It is located on the
back end of the motor and appears that it has solder on it. Should
it
be connected to something and/or could it be causing my problems?

Thanks for all the help.

Glen


It could be the start switch! Is it possible someone tried to fix
this motor
before you got it? I see a yellow wire nut that looks out of place
too. Most
factory connections are spade connections, wire nuts are not typical.

Maybe time to take it to a motor shop!

Have you checked to see if this saw falls into the safty recall that
Sears
has out? You may just want to collect the $100 from the recall and
move on!
Greg

wrote in message
oups.com...
OK, now I feel like an idiot. I was looking at the motor again
tonight and realized that per the instructions on the main wiring
block, it was wired for 240 volts. Once I changed it to 120 volts, the
motor started right up. I am not sure if there is any torque on the
motor as it was disassebled and I did not feel like putting my hand on
it when it was disassembled.

This does raise a few questions that maybe someone can help me with.

1. Since it was set to 240 volts on the wiring block, are there any
other changes made to the motor to get it to work with 240 volts?

2. I was surprised to see that it still had a 120 volt plug on the
motor. Does this indicate that someone was probably playing with the
motor and not really using it for 240 volts? I thought that it would
need a new plug to be used in a 240 volt outlet?

3. Does this have anything to do with the possible disconnected part I
mentioned in my previous posting?

I will put the saw back together in the next few days and test it out.
As I mentioned, I hoped to get it working because it is recalled but I
am eligible for an upgrade kit and not the $100.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Glen

Glad you got it going!
I have an older Sears RA saw that works well. It does not qualify for the
upgrade kit, they want the motor and then I get the $100. Beings I like to
live dangerously I decided to keep the saw!
Greg

Hi:
I have a sears radial arm saw too and last year it died on me. The shop
told me if it was the centrifugal switch which could not be purchased it
could be replaced with an electronic one and that is what yours look like in
the pictures. The original centrifugal switch is history. Mine had an
intermitant open starting winding. They could not find the source of the
problem so they rewinded the motor. Cost me $275 Canadian but still a lot
better than $1000. I have mine wired for 220 and I first took it to the
largest and most respectable motor shop in the area. I did not tell them it
was wired for 220 and they told me it could not be fixed but could not find
anything wrong with it. I then took it to a small shop and he was a lot
more helpful and knowledgable. I believe the problem at the first shop is
that they assume it was 110.

Glad to hear that you have your saw working again. Sounds like somebody did
not buy a 220 receptacle but used a 110 receptaclel instead, not a very safe
thing to do.

Eric

replying to gtannenb, Rockdoc wrote:
If the motor hums when you switch it on try using an air compressor to blow
out the interior of the motor. Remove the blade and position the motor so
that you can access both ends of it. It may take a couple of times and
possibly a couple of raps from a rubber mallet but mine started right back up
and runs just like brand new.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ms-308459-.htm

On Sunday, December 31, 2017 at 5:44:16 PM UTC-5, Rockdoc wrote:
replying to gtannenb, Rockdoc wrote:
If the motor hums when you switch it on try using an air compressor to blow
out the interior of the motor. Remove the blade and position the motor so
that you can access both ends of it. It may take a couple of times and
possibly a couple of raps from a rubber mallet but mine started right back up
and runs just like brand new.


If the motor has been humming for 12 years, the saw is probably shot.

Can't you read dates?

On 12/31/2017 7:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, December 31, 2017 at 5:44:16 PM UTC-5, Rockdoc wrote:
replying to gtannenb, Rockdoc wrote:
If the motor hums when you switch it on try using an air compressor to blow
out the interior of the motor. Remove the blade and position the motor so
that you can access both ends of it. It may take a couple of times and
possibly a couple of raps from a rubber mallet but mine started right back up
and runs just like brand new.


If the motor has been humming for 12 years, the saw is probably shot.

Can't you read dates?


Depends on what song it is humming. ;~)

replying to gtannenb, Ed wrote:
You probably just need to replace the capacitor on the saw. Here's a video to
show you how to do it. https://youtu.be/RVC5nCOSA4c

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...ms-308459-.htm

On 2/19/2018 12:14 AM, Ed wrote:
replying to gtannenb, Ed wrote:
You probably just need to replace the capacitor on the saw.Â* Here's a
video to
show you how to do it. https://youtu.be/RVC5nCOSA4c

I have no idea of what motor you have but if it has a capacitor, the
motor may be similar to my sear 10" table saw motor. It has a
capacitor but there is a mechanical switch that can get wood chips in
it. If there is saw dust and wood chips in the switch, it will appear
the capacitor has failed.

The fix is cheap and easy. You can clean it with a vacuum sweeper. On
some motor you can reach the switch by removing the plate on the end of
the motor. On others you have to partially disassemble the motor.
Again do carefully and all parts are returned to the motor. It is quite
easy and can be done in a few minutes.


--
2018: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

On Monday, February 19, 2018 at 7:26:55 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On 2/19/2018 12:14 AM, Ed wrote:
replying to gtannenb, Ed wrote:
You probably just need to replace the capacitor on the saw.Â* Here's a
video to
show you how to do it. https://youtu.be/RVC5nCOSA4c

I have no idea of what motor you have but if it has a capacitor, the
motor may be similar to my sear 10" table saw motor. It has a
capacitor but there is a mechanical switch that can get wood chips in
it. If there is saw dust and wood chips in the switch, it will appear
the capacitor has failed.

The fix is cheap and easy. You can clean it with a vacuum sweeper. On
some motor you can reach the switch by removing the plate on the end of
the motor. On others you have to partially disassemble the motor.
Again do carefully and all parts are returned to the motor. It is quite
easy and can be done in a few minutes.

2018: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

2018: The year we learn not to answer 13 year old questions.