I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound
right?
Any other suggestions.

I've always heard that approach. I've never in my life been able to
unstick a ferrous pipe union, other than by breaking it. Good luck !

toller wrote:
I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound
right?
Any other suggestions.


Go buy or rent two three foot pipe wrenches and put some umph into it.
--
Tom Horne

"Were not making watches here kid! Never use force, get a bigger
hammer!" Henry T. Horne III, Master Plumber and also my father. May
God rest his weary soul.

toller posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound
right?
Any other suggestions.



Hey tollar do you EVER use Google? Huh? Just once give it a go! OK!
--

Tekkie

On Mon, 16 May 2005 21:06:26 GMT, "toller" wrote:

I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound
right?
Any other suggestions.

Try melting beeswax into the threads.

HorneTD wrote:
toller wrote:
I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew
at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended
penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that
sound
right?
Any other suggestions.


Go buy or rent two three foot pipe wrenches and put some umph into
it.
--
Tom Horne

"Were not making watches here kid! Never use force, get a bigger
hammer!" Henry T. Horne III, Master Plumber and also my father. May

God rest his weary soul.

Which most likely will result in a collapsed or twisted pipe (BTDT).

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
HorneTD wrote:

toller wrote:

I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew

at all.

I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended

penetrating

oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that

sound

right?
Any other suggestions.



Go buy or rent two three foot pipe wrenches and put some umph into

it.

--
Tom Horne

"Were not making watches here kid! Never use force, get a bigger
hammer!" Henry T. Horne III, Master Plumber and also my father. May


God rest his weary soul.


Which most likely will result in a collapsed or twisted pipe (BTDT).

Harry K

That has not been my experience on literally hundreds of stubborn
galvanized iron joints. If the force is applied gradually the joint
will break free without damage.
--
Tom Horne

I just had to remove a 1 1/2" galv steel drain stub.

My usual trick did not work:

Very large pipe wrench used to TIGHTEN the joint ~ 1/8 or less; just
enough to budge it.
Then loosen it.

In this case I had to use a Sawzall to slit the pipe & collapse enough
to relieve the thread pressure.

Liquid wrench is good.

Bob

HorneTD wrote:
Harry K wrote:
HorneTD wrote:

toller wrote:

I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew

at all.

I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended

penetrating

oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does
that

sound

right?
Any other suggestions.



Go buy or rent two three foot pipe wrenches and put some umph into

it.

--
Tom Horne

"Were not making watches here kid! Never use force, get a bigger
hammer!" Henry T. Horne III, Master Plumber and also my father.
May


God rest his weary soul.


Which most likely will result in a collapsed or twisted pipe
(BTDT).

Harry K

That has not been my experience on literally hundreds of stubborn
galvanized iron joints. If the force is applied gradually the joint
will break free without damage.
--
Tom Horne

You obviously had the pleasure of never following behind my father.
His method of tightening pipe was 'as tight as it will go plus 1/2
turn'.

Harry K

toller wrote:
I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound
right?
Any other suggestions.


One of my father's tricks for breaking loose a rusty fitting was
to beat on it with a hammer until it broke the grip of the rust.

John_B wrote:

toller wrote:
I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound
right?
Any other suggestions.


One of my father's tricks for breaking loose a rusty fitting was
to beat on it with a hammer until it broke the grip of the rust.

Or it simply broke...

There are a lot of "threads" that appear here that could use some
"penetrating" oil.

"toller" wrote in message
...
I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound
right?
Any other suggestions.

Harry K wrote:
HorneTD wrote:

Harry K wrote:

HorneTD wrote:


toller wrote:


I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew

at all.


I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended

penetrating


oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does

that

sound


right?
Any other suggestions.



Go buy or rent two three foot pipe wrenches and put some umph into

it.


--
Tom Horne

"Were not making watches here kid! Never use force, get a bigger
hammer!" Henry T. Horne III, Master Plumber and also my father.

May


God rest his weary soul.


Which most likely will result in a collapsed or twisted pipe

(BTDT).

Harry K


That has not been my experience on literally hundreds of stubborn
galvanized iron joints. If the force is applied gradually the joint
will break free without damage.
--
Tom Horne


You obviously had the pleasure of never following behind my father.
His method of tightening pipe was 'as tight as it will go plus 1/2
turn'.

Harry K

I'll have to give you that one Harry. Another of my dads slogans was
tighten with an eighteen, loosen with a thirty six.
--
Tom Horne

--
--
Tom Horne


Well we aren't no thin blue heroes and yet we aren't no blackguards to.
We're just working men and woman most remarkable like you.

My experience has been that if you will support the back of the female
connection while hammering it pretty hard all the way around several times
that will always loosen the threads without damaging anything. Pipe and
fittings are ductile enough to slightly expand the outside part and/or
shrink the inside part.
Don Young
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
John_B wrote:

toller wrote:
I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at
all.
I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended
penetrating
oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that
sound
right?
Any other suggestions.


One of my father's tricks for breaking loose a rusty fitting was
to beat on it with a hammer until it broke the grip of the rust.

Or it simply broke...

Don Young wrote:

My experience has been that if you will support the back of the female
connection while hammering it pretty hard all the way around several times
that will always loosen the threads without damaging anything. Pipe and
fittings are ductile enough to slightly expand the outside part and/or
shrink the inside part.

That's more nearly describing heat, not impact (the expansion part,
anyway)...

You appear to have missed the smiley on first go. Although it helps on
occasion, I've not had universal success with the technique on, for
example, buried supply lines.