Our laundry dryer is vented to the outside through the shortest possible
path, a 4" through the wall vent located directly inline with the
dryer's exhaust outle., Its "pipe" protrudes from the inside wall by
only about 1".

An 18" long piece of aluminum foil/coil spring vent duct allows just
enough room to move the dryer away to tighten the hose clamp joining it
to the vent.

Last week I noticed that the plastic outside part of the vent was bulged
out and cracked and two of its three louvers had sailed off into the sunset.

Seems like someone had pushed the dryer against the wall hard enough to
force the "pipe" to bust the plastic on the outside, which was brittle
as glass after nearly twenty years of exposure to New England weather.

I was pleased to find an *identical* replacement at ACE Hardware, and a
bargain at only $2.98. The plastic parts looked like they'd been shot in
the same mold as our old one, and the four mnounting screw holes lined
up perfectly, but I'd bet that the mold is now located in a factory in
China.

The point of all this is that before calling the job done I measured the
"safe distance" between the back of the dryer and the wall, ripped a two
foot long piece of 2 by 4 down to that dimension and laid it on the
floor behind the dryer. If you have a similar venting setup you might
consider doing the same.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Good tip. I've always done something similar by placing
a 6' long piece of treated lumber on the basement floor
behind the washer and dryer to prevent either being pushed
closer to the wall than I would prefer. Works great.

Gideon

I should think that would be a good way to prevent kinking of the
exhaust tube in aqddition to protedcting the duct. That goes into my
notebook.
TB

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Our laundry dryer is vented to the outside through the shortest
possible
path, a 4" through the wall vent located directly inline with the
dryer's exhaust outle., Its "pipe" protrudes from the inside wall by
only about 1".

An 18" long piece of aluminum foil/coil spring vent duct allows just
enough room to move the dryer away to tighten the hose clamp joining
it
to the vent.

Last week I noticed that the plastic outside part of the vent was
bulged
out and cracked and two of its three louvers had sailed off into the
sunset.

Seems like someone had pushed the dryer against the wall hard enough
to
force the "pipe" to bust the plastic on the outside, which was
brittle
as glass after nearly twenty years of exposure to New England
weather.

I was pleased to find an *identical* replacement at ACE Hardware, and
a
bargain at only $2.98. The plastic parts looked like they'd been shot
in
the same mold as our old one, and the four mnounting screw holes
lined
up perfectly, but I'd bet that the mold is now located in a factory
in
China.

The point of all this is that before calling the job done I measured
the
"safe distance" between the back of the dryer and the wall, ripped a
two
foot long piece of 2 by 4 down to that dimension and laid it on the
floor behind the dryer. If you have a similar venting setup you might

consider doing the same.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Good tip....we have been doing that for years Esp on main floor
laundry rooms, the dryer seems to get pushed back against the wall.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Geez, I hate to be the devil's advocate here but better consider the "cause"
of the dryer being pushed back.
If it is just normal josling about the tip is valid but if the car
pushed it back that gap could come in handy.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...

Our laundry dryer is vented to the outside through the shortest possible
path, a 4" through the wall vent located directly inline with the dryer's
exhaust outle., Its "pipe" protrudes from the inside wall by only about
1".

An 18" long piece of aluminum foil/coil spring vent duct allows just
enough room to move the dryer away to tighten the hose clamp joining it to
the vent.

Last week I noticed that the plastic outside part of the vent was bulged
out and cracked and two of its three louvers had sailed off into the
sunset.

Seems like someone had pushed the dryer against the wall hard enough to
force the "pipe" to bust the plastic on the outside, which was brittle as
glass after nearly twenty years of exposure to New England weather.

I was pleased to find an *identical* replacement at ACE Hardware, and a
bargain at only $2.98. The plastic parts looked like they'd been shot in
the same mold as our old one, and the four mnounting screw holes lined up
perfectly, but I'd bet that the mold is now located in a factory in China.

The point of all this is that before calling the job done I measured the
"safe distance" between the back of the dryer and the wall, ripped a two
foot long piece of 2 by 4 down to that dimension and laid it on the floor
behind the dryer. If you have a similar venting setup you might consider
doing the same.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

And kinked flat dryer vent can cause overheating.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


wrote in message
oups.com...
I should think that would be a good way to prevent kinking of the
exhaust tube in aqddition to protedcting the duct. That goes into my
notebook.
TB