There is a problem with a few casement windows on the side of my house.
During window-driven rain, they tend to leak water from the top gap where
the window shuts. These windows generally don't shut very tight at the very
top (either due to not being well-aligned or maybe being warped.) I'm
wondering if this problem is generally solvable by replacing/enhancing the
rubber seals/gaskets rather than having to bother replacing the entire
window.

There are two types of seals that likely could use replacement:

1) There is some type of rubber seal on top of the window frame (the one
which holds the glass panel) and it is works a flap that is supposed to
point upward and make contact with the top of the outermost frame when the
window is shut. It seems to me that this is the most important seal to
prevent water leakage.

2) There is also a rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the inner
frame which the window's frame presses against when shut. This gasket fits
looks like it is attached by flap that fits within the grove within a
groove. Other than the flap which sticks in the groove, it looks sort of
like a rubber tube.

If the leak is coming from the top gap where the window shuts, then could a
window-repair expert easily solve this by replacing the seals, or is
replacing the entire window my only option?

Thanks.

J.

I am an Andersen Window Service Provider and this sounds like an
Andersen window! Very easy repair. What you need to acquire is 1/8"
or 3/16" rubber backer rod. Open the wndow up and get to the top of
the open sash. Cut a length of backer rod the width of the sash. Take
a stiff putty knife and press the backer rod under the flap to make it
spread more open. Close the window and the seal should be tight.
Sometimes you have to use different sizes of backer rod to get the flap
to touch the head jamb.

You can replace the sash w/s around the perimeter, but it sounds like
your problem is at the top of the sash.

That should do it!

jocobe

Thanks. Where do I get the backer rod? Would using a piece of d-shaped
frost king rubber weatherstrip work?

Not sure if the windows are Anderson, but they are likely a similar window
to Anderson. By the way, one of the windows seems to have an mysterious
additional problem in which the thin wooden frame, on the inside of the
window, which holds the glass panel in place seems to get saturated with
water even when there is absolutely zero evidence of water dripping down
from the top. I suspect water is wicking through from the outside where the
frame holds the glass panel. Could this be solved just be putting some
clear silicone on the outside where the glass panel meets the frame that is
holding it?

Are you in the NJ by any chance?

Thanks,

J.


I am an Andersen Window Service Provider and this sounds like an
Andersen window! Very easy repair. What you need to acquire is 1/8"
or 3/16" rubber backer rod. Open the wndow up and get to the top of
the open sash. Cut a length of backer rod the width of the sash. Take
a stiff putty knife and press the backer rod under the flap to make it
spread more open. Close the window and the seal should be tight.
Sometimes you have to use different sizes of backer rod to get the flap
to touch the head jamb.

You can replace the sash w/s around the perimeter, but it sounds like
your problem is at the top of the sash.

That should do it!

jocobe

The backer rod is round. Probably the easiest thing for you to find is
screen spline from a hardware store. That should do it!

A silicone bead where the frame/sash meets the glass should keep the
water out.

Thanx for asking, but I'm in Maryland!

jocobe

On concrete latex is best as water in the pot will make oil fail by
pushing out as latex is permeable. Go to a real paint store, Google
doesn`t have them yet.

Many windows now have 15-20 yr warranty, it could be a latch was never
set to pull tight, winow out of square, rubber is old. See how far
rubber is out, measure it, use a dollar bill on a closed window it
should not pull out. A factory tech could diagnose and fix it fast.

Have Coradco (now called Jenn-Weld) 10 yo windows and doors with
similar but not identical problems which I have unsuccesfully been
trying to deal with for a year or more. Some of the seals are rubber
but others are relatively hard plastic. Jenn-Weld is next to
impossible to deal with. What are sources for the plastic and rubber
seals? I feel that generic ones will do provided
they are identical.

Will also need to replace some of the rotted lower horizontal wood.
Have purchased only book on repairing casement windows which I could
find and it is of no help. Any suggestions?

Will also need to replace handcrank on one window but it appears part
of the wood frame will have to be drilled through to access screws to
remove it; am I correct in this thought?

C.R. Laurence would be a good source for the moldings and gaskets.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Frank" wrote in message
...
Have Coradco (now called Jenn-Weld) 10 yo windows and doors with
similar but not identical problems which I have unsuccesfully
been
trying to deal with for a year or more. Some of the seals are
rubber
but others are relatively hard plastic. Jenn-Weld is next to
impossible to deal with. What are sources for the plastic and
rubber
seals? I feel that generic ones will do provided
they are identical.

Will also need to replace some of the rotted lower horizontal
wood.
Have purchased only book on repairing casement windows which I
could
find and it is of no help. Any suggestions?

Will also need to replace handcrank on one window but it appears
part
of the wood frame will have to be drilled through to access
screws to
remove it; am I correct in this thought?