I want to remove the old tubular flourescent lights in my kitchen, and
light the kitchen (ambient downlighting) with recessed lights. I do have
access to the attic above, and there is insulation. I have an 8'
ceiling.

I've been looking at the different housings, trims, and bulbs at the
stores, and looking for information online. I'm overwhelmed with all the
products, but underwhelmed with the lack of general information. I can
find places to buy and product specs, but I don't know what to use.

I assume the most common size of recessed light is 5 inch. For my use,
I'd get a housing for insulated ceiling. I guess I could get cans for
non-insulated and push the blown in insulation back. Does it make a
difference? Or should I just go with the safest?

Since I do have access to above the ceiling, I can use the cans with the
joist spanners, but I could also use the can that are used for remodeling
where you can't get above the ceiling. Does it make a difference? The
cans with joinst spanners look to be sturdier.

How far apart should lights be placed? I like a well light space. I also
like the higher K temps, but this may not be possible.) I know this
partially depends on the bulb types and wattage, and trim, I use...

Bulb types...this is the most confusing of all for me. PAR is parabolic
aluminum reflector? Does a PAR 30 mean the beam has a 30 degree spread?
Are all PAR bulbs halogen? That is, are there incandescent PAR bulbs?

I've read that PAR halogen frosted bulbs eliminate hot spots and shadows
that non frosted PAR halogen bulbs can cause. Yes?

BR means binary reflector? What's that?

Watt for watt, or lumen for lumen, do the non-flourescent bulb types cost
about the same to run?

I've seen all types of trim. It appears to me that the most light would
be gotten by using a trim that allows the bulb to be flush with the
ceiling, rather than up a few inches or more into a baffle type trim.

I'd love to use flourescents, due to their low energy use, but I don't
see this as possible with recessed lighting. Anyone aware of a modern
looking flourescent type fixture, other than long or circuline tubes in
enclosures that hang from the ceiling?

Is there anyplace you can direct me to learn more? I have looked quite a
bit, and the more I look, the more questions I have.

Thanks,
Bruce

Bruce wrote:
I want to remove the old tubular flourescent lights in my kitchen, and
light the kitchen (ambient downlighting) with recessed lights. I do
have access to the attic above, and there is insulation. I have an 8'
ceiling.

I've been looking at the different housings, trims, and bulbs at the
stores, and looking for information online. I'm overwhelmed with all
the products, but underwhelmed with the lack of general information.
I can find places to buy and product specs, but I don't know what to
use.

I assume the most common size of recessed light is 5 inch. For my
use, I'd get a housing for insulated ceiling. I guess I could get
cans for non-insulated and push the blown in insulation back. Does
it make a difference? Or should I just go with the safest?

Always use the safest!


Since I do have access to above the ceiling, I can use the cans with
the joist spanners, but I could also use the can that are used for
remodeling where you can't get above the ceiling. Does it make a
difference? The cans with joinst spanners look to be sturdier.

I think I would use the remolding type.


How far apart should lights be placed? I like a well light space. I
also like the higher K temps, but this may not be possible.) I know
this partially depends on the bulb types and wattage, and trim, I
use...

The manufacture should have information on this. It depends on the lamp
design and the distance between the lamp and the work surface.


Bulb types...this is the most confusing of all for me. PAR is
parabolic aluminum reflector? Does a PAR 30 mean the beam has a 30
degree spread? Are all PAR bulbs halogen? That is, are there
incandescent PAR bulbs?

PAR lamps are differentiated according to their diameter, which is measured
in eighths of an inch. Therefore, a PAR64 is eight inches in diameter (64/8
= 8) and a PAR38 has a diameter of four and three-quarter inches (38/8 =
4.75). PAR lamps are available in an assortment of wattages and beam spreads
as well. For example, a PAR56 lamp may be purchase at 300 or 500 watts, and
each wattage is available in Narrow Spot, Medium Flood or Wide Flood.



I've read that PAR halogen frosted bulbs eliminate hot spots and
shadows that non frosted PAR halogen bulbs can cause. Yes?

Reduce is the word and they also reduce the dramatic effect.


BR means binary reflector? What's that?

Watt for watt, or lumen for lumen, do the non-flourescent bulb types
cost about the same to run?

Yes. There are some slight differences generally shorter lived lamps
make more light per watt.


I've seen all types of trim. It appears to me that the most light
would be gotten by using a trim that allows the bulb to be flush with
the ceiling, rather than up a few inches or more into a baffle type
trim.

Yes, but then the lamp is more exposed and you may not like the
potential glare.


I'd love to use flourescents, due to their low energy use, but I don't
see this as possible with recessed lighting. Anyone aware of a modern
looking flourescent type fixture, other than long or circuline tubes
in enclosures that hang from the ceiling?

There are lots of opportunities today to use fluorescent lamps in
recessed lamps. Many of the new screw in compact fluorescent types will
work in a recessed fixture. Look at commercial buildings, many use them
today.


Is there anyplace you can direct me to learn more? I have looked
quite a bit, and the more I look, the more questions I have.

Thanks,
Bruce

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit

Bruce, go to a lighting showroom. If you have insulation, you should use an
insulated housing, which reduces the wattage allowed in the fixture. Some
brands like Halo allow you to adjust the lamp, so you can bring it down to
the plane of the ceiling, which I find spreads the light better. There are
fluorescent lamps made to resemble reflector floods, which are considerably
less expensive to operate, but give less lumens and IMHO not a particularly
comfortable light. At a good lighting showroom they can show you examples of
the different lamp types as well as the placement data, then you can try to
find a fixture that will accommodate the lamp type
HTH
"Bruce" wrote in message
7.136...
I want to remove the old tubular flourescent lights in my kitchen, and
light the kitchen (ambient downlighting) with recessed lights. I do have
access to the attic above, and there is insulation. I have an 8'
ceiling.

I've been looking at the different housings, trims, and bulbs at the
stores, and looking for information online. I'm overwhelmed with all the
products, but underwhelmed with the lack of general information. I can
find places to buy and product specs, but I don't know what to use.

I assume the most common size of recessed light is 5 inch. For my use,
I'd get a housing for insulated ceiling. I guess I could get cans for
non-insulated and push the blown in insulation back. Does it make a
difference? Or should I just go with the safest?

Since I do have access to above the ceiling, I can use the cans with the
joist spanners, but I could also use the can that are used for remodeling
where you can't get above the ceiling. Does it make a difference? The
cans with joinst spanners look to be sturdier.

How far apart should lights be placed? I like a well light space. I also
like the higher K temps, but this may not be possible.) I know this
partially depends on the bulb types and wattage, and trim, I use...

Bulb types...this is the most confusing of all for me. PAR is parabolic
aluminum reflector? Does a PAR 30 mean the beam has a 30 degree spread?
Are all PAR bulbs halogen? That is, are there incandescent PAR bulbs?

I've read that PAR halogen frosted bulbs eliminate hot spots and shadows
that non frosted PAR halogen bulbs can cause. Yes?

BR means binary reflector? What's that?

Watt for watt, or lumen for lumen, do the non-flourescent bulb types cost
about the same to run?

I've seen all types of trim. It appears to me that the most light would
be gotten by using a trim that allows the bulb to be flush with the
ceiling, rather than up a few inches or more into a baffle type trim.

I'd love to use flourescents, due to their low energy use, but I don't
see this as possible with recessed lighting. Anyone aware of a modern
looking flourescent type fixture, other than long or circuline tubes in
enclosures that hang from the ceiling?

Is there anyplace you can direct me to learn more? I have looked quite a
bit, and the more I look, the more questions I have.

Thanks,
Bruce

Use a sealed fixture for use around insulation or air will go up in the
attic. Cans with spanners are usualy for new construction with above
access either can be used. K is Kelvin,bulb temp or color of light
Halogen are all about the same except the small mr 16 which are a bit
whiter there are flourescent options which are ok in some areas but they
dont reflect downward as well and for lighting counters are not as nice
as halogen. Par 38 is bulb size most can be ordered in up to 5 different
beam widths from wide flood to narrow spot. Box stores usualy carry only
2 variations. Flourescent put out 50 to 100 Lpw lumen per watt ,
Halogen apx 25 Lpw but it is directed light. For a bright kitchen keep a
flourescent fixture or several and use cans. I just redid mine with T-8
dimmable 4 ft tube flourescent 3800k? and have the cans dimmable as
well, there are times when you want alot of light in a kitchen and just
cans may not do it. Go to a real light shop to see samples , people that
know, all options available. Kitchens need alot of light you have alot
of options and now dimmable flourescents