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#1
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Alternating Current Clarification needed
I have always been puzzled by the fact that even though Alternating
Current is delivered to a house, we consider one wire, usually the black wire, "hot" and white wire "neutral." Why is it that if the current is alternating through the house, that the black wire is considered the hot wire? It seems to me that if the same wire is always hot (when the current is flowing), the current is acting as direct current. If the current is alternating within the house, why wouldn't the black wire be hot on one cycle and the white wire by hot on the next/return cycle? Thanks! |
#2
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The current alternates along the circuit. The black and white wires
are merely two segments of the same circuit; in other words, it's all one big wire or loop. |
#3
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Thanks! I think I understand that part... but would it have the same
effect to put, for example, an on and off switch on the white wire instead of the black wire? I have been told that putting the switch on the black wire cuts off the current off before it reaches the light fixture, while putting it on the white wire allows the fixture to remain hot (if one were foolish enough to touch the light fixture socket). |
#4
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Patrick ) wrote:
: I have always been puzzled by the fact that even though Alternating : Current is delivered to a house, we consider one wire, usually the : black wire, "hot" and white wire "neutral." Why is it that if the : current is alternating through the house, that the black wire is : considered the hot wire? It seems to me that if the same wire is always : hot (when the current is flowing), the current is acting as direct : current. If the current is alternating within the house, why wouldn't : the black wire be hot on one cycle and the white wire by hot on the : next/return cycle? At one point in the cycle, the hot wire has a +120V potential, and the neutral (and ground) wires are at 0, for a voltage differential of 120V. At the opposite point in the cycle, the hot wire has a -120V potential, and the neutral (and ground) wires are at 0, for a voltage differential of 120V "in the opposite direction". But, if you disconnect the hot from the neutral, it is safe to touch the neutral, but not safe to touch the hot. I had a ceiling light fixture in my house that was wired by the previous owner with the switch on the neutral rather than the hot. There was an intermittent short between the neutral and ground at the light fixture, and sometimes the light switch would work, but sometimes the light would stay ON no matter what position the switch was in. I could even remove the switch entirely and cap off the wires, and the light would stay on, because the circuit was hot to lamp to ground, bypassing the neutral and the switch. If the switch had been on the hot side, then the neutral/ground short wouldn't have caused much trouble. If the short had been between hot and ground, then the circuit breaker would have popped. --- Chip |
#6
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In article . com, "Patrick" wrote:
Thanks! I think I understand that part... Don't thank him - he's wrong - and no, you don't understand. but would it have the same effect to put, for example, an on and off switch on the white wire instead of the black wire? The light would still go on and off in response to the switch. There is a difference, however. See below. I have been told that putting the switch on the black wire cuts off the current off before it reaches the light fixture, while putting it on the white wire allows the fixture to remain hot (if one were foolish enough to touch the light fixture socket). That is correct, and that is why the switch is always installed on the hot side of the circuit. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#8
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"Patrick" wrote in message oups.com... I have always been puzzled by the fact that even though Alternating Current is delivered to a house, we consider one wire, usually the black wire, "hot" and white wire "neutral." Why is it that if the current is alternating through the house, that the black wire is considered the hot wire? It seems to me that if the same wire is always hot (when the current is flowing), the current is acting as direct current. If the current is alternating within the house, why wouldn't the black wire be hot on one cycle and the white wire by hot on the next/return cycle? Thanks! Because, averaged over time (one ac cycle or continuously), the "hot" (black or red) wire will always have a potential (voltage difference) to ground. The "neutral" or white wire will not since it is continuously forced to ground potential by being connected to ground at the CB panel. TKM |
#9
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On 27 Mar 2005 05:49:08 -0800, someone wrote:
The current alternates along the circuit. The black and white wires are merely two segments of the same circuit; in other words, it's all one big wire or loop. Jeez Roger, that helped him NOT. Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file. |
#10
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On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 15:12:17 +0000 (UTC), someone wrote:
At one point in the cycle, the hot wire has a +120V potential, and the neutral (and ground) wires are at 0, for a voltage differential of 120V. At the opposite point in the cycle, the hot wire has a -120V potential, and the neutral (and ground) wires are at 0, for a voltage differential of 120V "in the opposite direction". Not exactly how it works, but not far off. Actually technically true just like a stopped clock is right twice a day, at some point the cycle will pass thru 1v and 120v but the max potential is more than 120 and the generally accepted method of averaging or figuring the net effect (I believe that's root mean squared???) "averages" out to 120. Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file. |
#11
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On 27 Mar 2005 05:09:09 -0800, someone wrote:
It seems to me that if the same wire is always hot (when the current is flowing), the current is acting as direct current. Nah. The black (or red!) wire has a sine wave current in it that alternates back and forth, you might think of it as from plus to minus. Whereas the white wire is supposed to be at ground potential. If everything is perfect, in practice you would USUALLY be ok touching the white - the "stick you finger in the socket" situation, you can indeed USUALLY get away with it when the black has been switched off. You get 120/240 because the red and white are at opposite phases, its 240 between them and 120 from each to white neutral. In theory and code you don't allow anyone to touch the white as their are possible faults where a potential could develope that would cause current to flow. Reply to NG only - this e.mail address goes to a kill file. |
#12
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Thanks to all that replied.
If I understand the last reply correctly, the alternating current is alternating back and forth through the black/red wire. The source of the current comes from the panel through the black wire, never through the white wire. What is the purpose of the white wire? To complete the loop? Where is the loop completed? At the panel? |
#13
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In article .com, "Patrick" wrote:
Thanks to all that replied. If I understand the last reply correctly, the alternating current is alternating back and forth through the black/red wire. The source of the current comes from the panel through the black wire, never through the white wire. That is correct (provided that the connections in the panel are made correctly). What is the purpose of the white wire? To complete the loop? Correct. An analogy with plumbing may be useful: the black wire is the supply pipe, and the white wire is the drain. Where is the loop completed? At the panel? Correct. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
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