I installed 12" wall and floor tiles in a bathroom with 2"x2" tiles on
what used to be a painted, concrete shower floor with a 6" stub wall
about six months ago. It's all holding up nicely but I did find
recently, some missing grout where the 2" tile meets the schluder
which supports the bottom of the 12" tile as it goes up the wall. Gaps
were approximately 1/4" or less and I used a fine brush wire wheel in
a drill to clean off any soap scum or old grout sealant prior to
re-grouting. The grout repair *seems* to have gone well and now my 3
days (or so) are running where I mist the grout a couple of times a
day to get some cure time prior to using the shower again. Here's the
big question... Instead of using a conventional grout sealer, should I
use clear silicone or tub caulk? They make some supposed 50 year stuff
now and in my experience with it, it seems more effective than what my
experience with the grout sealer was (kind of a cheezy bottle with a
brush end used to dab the grout lines). The grout was a sanded
portland cement grout (though now in retrospect, I wonder if I should
have used an epoxy since it's a shower floor). Anyway, just trying to
protect the investment with whatever I can get in there with to
protect existing grout lines. The integrity of the grout appears to be
holding well - just wondering about a longer term sealant for it.

2nd question as a quickie... what is the preferred method of cleaning
grout lines prior to re-sealing? The wire brush *seemed* pretty
effective but not being an expert, there might be something that works
better. TIA for any help. :-)

It's hard to get a mental picture. Grout sealer is for grout, it seals
it by soaking and creating a non-porous layer on top. If you didn't
use a waterproof grout mix on the shower floor that'll be a problem,
you may find yourself standing in the basement one day. Personally I
would use a plastic pan thing for a shower floor, it is more of a sure
thing and requires no maintenance. Not very upscale, I know.

If you are worried about the color of the grout being changed or faded,
then that's one thing. But where you have installed grout, there needs
to be caulking there instead of grout. TRUST ME, the grout won't hold
up being in a joint like that. Similar places are where backsplash
meets a counter top, never grout, always caulk. 90 degree corners in
showers or backsplash., bottoms of bathtubs where it meets the floor,
all around a bathtub ledge where tile meets the tub. Always use 100%
Acrilyc-laytex siloconized caulking. Epoxy caulking is not bad as
well, but with the Acrilyc, you will get more flex if there is ever
movement. The sealer won't be as much of a garuntee in repelling water
over time as caulking would be in that area. Cleaning grout lines can
be a pain if not impossible sometimes and need to be redone. There is
a product out there that is a grout colorant and sealer at the same
time. Works good, I've used it on my jobs. Home Depot only has a few
select colors, but they can order others. There are also grout
cleaning products at Lowes, I like the Aqua Mix brand myself. Hope
that helps!!

Erik
want to work at home?
http://urbiz.stayinhomeandlovinit.com

On 13 Mar 2005 16:36:28 -0800, wrote:

It's hard to get a mental picture. Grout sealer is for grout, it seals
it by soaking and creating a non-porous layer on top. If you didn't
use a waterproof grout mix on the shower floor that'll be a problem,
you may find yourself standing in the basement one day. Personally I
would use a plastic pan thing for a shower floor, it is more of a sure
thing and requires no maintenance. Not very upscale, I know.


I've uploaded a picture to the following site.

http://www.geocities.com/overlandtrail/BATH1.JPG

As you see the missing grout, keep in mind that the rest of that seam
around the shower is in tact. I was considering using a clear
silicone over the grout surface to seal the pores. Does that make
sense, guys?

Makes sense to me. I'd still be concerned about 'why' it's having
issues.

"cover" coverland914 @ yahoo.com wrote in message
news:1110796699.c1dec07e07b4ae9c372966a97a089e65@t eranews...
On 13 Mar 2005 16:36:28 -0800, wrote:

It's hard to get a mental picture. Grout sealer is for grout, it seals
it by soaking and creating a non-porous layer on top. If you didn't
use a waterproof grout mix on the shower floor that'll be a problem,
you may find yourself standing in the basement one day. Personally I
would use a plastic pan thing for a shower floor, it is more of a sure
thing and requires no maintenance. Not very upscale, I know.


I've uploaded a picture to the following site.

http://www.geocities.com/overlandtrail/BATH1.JPG

As you see the missing grout, keep in mind that
the rest of that seam around the shower is in tact.

Looks more like it was just badly done in the first place,
the grout strip is wide enough so that if you dont do it
right on adding water etc in a remix, it isnt strong
enough and has just fallen to bits because of that.

I was considering using a clear silicone over the grout
surface to seal the pores. Does that make sense, guys?

Sure, but make sure you mix the grout properly in the
first place, dont add more water later to make it less
stiff after its partially set when doing the grouting.

The picture indicates to me that there's movement somewhere causing the
grout to crack.


wrote:
Makes sense to me. I'd still be concerned about 'why' it's having
issues.

You might not like this suggestion, but try checking out the Schluter
websight www.schlueter-systems.com and look into something like the
"Dilex-HKW" piece that might be a better transition from the 12 X 12 to
the 4" tile. You would have to tear out the existing grout and metal
piece you have in there now and re-install something like that, but you
might not want to go with that route. It looks like a bad situation
that might get worse. sugar coating it and not fixing the real
problem, which might be behind the tile or wall, could cost you more in
the long run.

Erik
Spend more time with your family
http://urbiz.stayinhomeandlovinit.com

I had wondered about 'house settling' but will probably wait to see if
the issue repeats itself now that I have re-grouted the joint. I wish
the 'expert' I had helping with this project or the flooring store who
knew where I was putting it (shower floor) would have mentioned
something about epoxy grout for shower floors though. Just have to
hope that I can keep it sealed well enough so as not to create issues,
I guess. Most sealant manufacturers recommend every 6 months to a
year.

On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 18:36:13 -0800, G Henslee
wrote:

The picture indicates to me that there's movement somewhere causing the
grout to crack.


wrote:
Makes sense to me. I'd still be concerned about 'why' it's having
issues.

cover,

Your picture indicates that is a wider than standard joint at that
transition. You may want to consider using grout that is made for wider
than standard joints. I don't know if the depot or lowes have that type
of grout, but I believe a regular tile supplier would.

cover wrote:
I had wondered about 'house settling' but will probably wait to see if
the issue repeats itself now that I have re-grouted the joint. I wish
the 'expert' I had helping with this project or the flooring store who
knew where I was putting it (shower floor) would have mentioned
something about epoxy grout for shower floors though. Just have to
hope that I can keep it sealed well enough so as not to create issues,
I guess. Most sealant manufacturers recommend every 6 months to a
year.

On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 18:36:13 -0800, G Henslee
wrote:


The picture indicates to me that there's movement somewhere causing the
grout to crack.


wrote:

Makes sense to me. I'd still be concerned about 'why' it's having
issues.