I just hung a pre-hung fiberglass door with two side-lights. After
installing the door, it appears there is a 1/2" to 3/4" gap at the top
between the pre-hung header jam and the door slab. The sill and the bottom
of the door slab also rubs just slightly. The door handle side is perfectly
even with its opposing strike jamb. The hinge jamb is also even with it's
opposing left door slab. Doesn't make sense that this is an installation
issue, but the company that sold me the door swares it is, and will not
repair it.

The only thing I can figure is that the door was manufactured not square.
The header may have been manufactured slightly bowed or unleveled (higher at
one end). I can no longer move the prehung door unit as it is firmly in
place. Is there a way to fix this another way? The weatherstipping does not
cover the top to completely hide the outside and even after I apply the
molding, you can still see this space at the top even if the weatherstipping
did seal it. Besides the door does rub slightly at the sill causing a
functionality problem.

Thanks.

"Billy" wrote in message
...
I just hung a pre-hung fiberglass door with two side-lights. After
installing the door, it appears there is a 1/2" to 3/4" gap at the top
between the pre-hung header jam and the door slab. The sill and the bottom
of the door slab also rubs just slightly. The door handle side is
perfectly
even with its opposing strike jamb. The hinge jamb is also even with it's
opposing left door slab. Doesn't make sense that this is an installation
issue, but the company that sold me the door swares it is, and will not
repair it.

The only thing I can figure is that the door was manufactured not square.
The header may have been manufactured slightly bowed or unleveled (higher
at
one end). I can no longer move the prehung door unit as it is firmly in
place. Is there a way to fix this another way? The weatherstipping does
not
cover the top to completely hide the outside and even after I apply the
molding, you can still see this space at the top even if the
weatherstipping
did seal it. Besides the door does rub slightly at the sill causing a
functionality problem.

Is the 1/2" to 3/4" gap constant across the entire top of the door?
Does the bottom of the door rub in one area only or all the way across the
bottom?
Was this a custom manufactured door slab or a standard factory size?
Check the sides for plumb and the top and bottom for level and measure the
diagonals. Sounds to me like an installation problem. The odds of a
manufactured door being out-of-square is pretty remote.

-al sung
Rapid Realm Technology, Inc.
Hopkinton, MA

"Alan Sung" wrote in message news:o9jad.217451$MQ5.204595@attbi_s52...
"Billy" wrote in message
...
I just hung a pre-hung fiberglass door with two side-lights. After
installing the door, it appears there is a 1/2" to 3/4" gap at the top
between the pre-hung header jam and the door slab. The sill and the bottom
of the door slab also rubs just slightly. The door handle side is
perfectly
even with its opposing strike jamb. The hinge jamb is also even with it's
opposing left door slab. Doesn't make sense that this is an installation
issue, but the company that sold me the door swares it is, and will not
repair it.

The only thing I can figure is that the door was manufactured not square.
The header may have been manufactured slightly bowed or unleveled (higher
at
one end). I can no longer move the prehung door unit as it is firmly in
place. Is there a way to fix this another way? The weatherstipping does
not
cover the top to completely hide the outside and even after I apply the
molding, you can still see this space at the top even if the
weatherstipping
did seal it. Besides the door does rub slightly at the sill causing a
functionality problem.

Is the 1/2" to 3/4" gap constant across the entire top of the door?
Does the bottom of the door rub in one area only or all the way across the
bottom?
Was this a custom manufactured door slab or a standard factory size?
Check the sides for plumb and the top and bottom for level and measure the
diagonals. Sounds to me like an installation problem. The odds of a
manufactured door being out-of-square is pretty remote.

-al sung
Rapid Realm Technology, Inc.
Hopkinton, MA

I would agree but I had a weirdo happen to me. Installed Anderson
exterior door with 1 sidelight. Nice level, square plumb but the door
slab wouldn't meet the weatherstripping at the bottom without
torqueing the frame. Called company, they came down convinced it was
installation. They finally had to agree with me that the door slab
was warped (steel clad) as unlikely as it seemed. They gave me a new
door and let me keep the old one. The new one was also warped but I
accepted it.

Harry K

"Harry K" wrote in message
m...
"Alan Sung" wrote in message
news:o9jad.217451$MQ5.204595@attbi_s52...
"Billy" wrote in message
...
I just hung a pre-hung fiberglass door with two side-lights. After
installing the door, it appears there is a 1/2" to 3/4" gap at the top
between the pre-hung header jam and the door slab. The sill and the
bottom
of the door slab also rubs just slightly. The door handle side is
perfectly
even with its opposing strike jamb. The hinge jamb is also even with
it's
opposing left door slab. Doesn't make sense that this is an
installation
issue, but the company that sold me the door swares it is, and will
not
repair it.

The only thing I can figure is that the door was manufactured not
square.
The header may have been manufactured slightly bowed or unleveled
(higher
at
one end). I can no longer move the prehung door unit as it is firmly
in
place. Is there a way to fix this another way? The weatherstipping
does
not
cover the top to completely hide the outside and even after I apply
the
molding, you can still see this space at the top even if the
weatherstipping
did seal it. Besides the door does rub slightly at the sill causing a
functionality problem.

Is the 1/2" to 3/4" gap constant across the entire top of the door?
Does the bottom of the door rub in one area only or all the way across
the
bottom?
Was this a custom manufactured door slab or a standard factory size?
Check the sides for plumb and the top and bottom for level and measure
the
diagonals. Sounds to me like an installation problem. The odds of a
manufactured door being out-of-square is pretty remote.

-al sung
Rapid Realm Technology, Inc.
Hopkinton, MA

I would agree but I had a weirdo happen to me. Installed Anderson
exterior door with 1 sidelight. Nice level, square plumb but the door
slab wouldn't meet the weatherstripping at the bottom without
torqueing the frame. Called company, they came down convinced it was
installation. They finally had to agree with me that the door slab
was warped (steel clad) as unlikely as it seemed. They gave me a new
door and let me keep the old one. The new one was also warped but I
accepted it.

Harry K

Warped or twisted (racked) door slabs are a possibility, but not
out-of-square. One could argue that you could adjust the door frame
installation to account for the warp so that it meets the weatherstripping
all the way around. The OP said that he had gaps and rubbing so that does
not sound like a warped door.

-al sung

"Alan Sung" wrote in message news:Slwad.219073$MQ5.25493@attbi_s52...
"Harry K" wrote in message
m...
"Alan Sung" wrote in message
news:o9jad.217451$MQ5.204595@attbi_s52...
"Billy" wrote in message
...
I just hung a pre-hung fiberglass door with two side-lights. After
installing the door, it appears there is a 1/2" to 3/4" gap at the top
between the pre-hung header jam and the door slab. The sill and the
bottom
of the door slab also rubs just slightly. The door handle side is
perfectly
even with its opposing strike jamb. The hinge jamb is also even with
it's
opposing left door slab. Doesn't make sense that this is an
installation
issue, but the company that sold me the door swares it is, and will
not
repair it.

The only thing I can figure is that the door was manufactured not
square.
The header may have been manufactured slightly bowed or unleveled
(higher
at
one end). I can no longer move the prehung door unit as it is firmly
in
place. Is there a way to fix this another way? The weatherstipping
does
not
cover the top to completely hide the outside and even after I apply
the
molding, you can still see this space at the top even if the
weatherstipping
did seal it. Besides the door does rub slightly at the sill causing a
functionality problem.

Is the 1/2" to 3/4" gap constant across the entire top of the door?
Does the bottom of the door rub in one area only or all the way across
the
bottom?
Was this a custom manufactured door slab or a standard factory size?
Check the sides for plumb and the top and bottom for level and measure
the
diagonals. Sounds to me like an installation problem. The odds of a
manufactured door being out-of-square is pretty remote.

-al sung
Rapid Realm Technology, Inc.
Hopkinton, MA

I would agree but I had a weirdo happen to me. Installed Anderson
exterior door with 1 sidelight. Nice level, square plumb but the door
slab wouldn't meet the weatherstripping at the bottom without
torqueing the frame. Called company, they came down convinced it was
installation. They finally had to agree with me that the door slab
was warped (steel clad) as unlikely as it seemed. They gave me a new
door and let me keep the old one. The new one was also warped but I
accepted it.

Harry K

Warped or twisted (racked) door slabs are a possibility, but not
out-of-square. One could argue that you could adjust the door frame
installation to account for the warp so that it meets the weatherstripping
all the way around. The OP said that he had gaps and rubbing so that does
not sound like a warped door.

-al sung

Quite right. I wasn't clear enough. I actually replied to the very
small bit "The odd of a manufactured door beding out of square...". I
would also have thought that warped was also remote but there it was.
I would really be surprised to discover and out of square one though.
Nope, I couldn't warp the frame enough without causing real problems
with the casing.

Harry K

The door manufacturers rep came by to look at the door and he said it is
racked between an 1/8" and 1/4". He believes this is causing the gap at the
top. He says removing the door and leveling the sill will correct the issue.

Does this sound feasible?

"Alan Sung" wrote in message
news9jad.217451$MQ5.204595@attbi_s52...
"Billy" wrote in message
...
I just hung a pre-hung fiberglass door with two side-lights. After
installing the door, it appears there is a 1/2" to 3/4" gap at the top
between the pre-hung header jam and the door slab. The sill and the
bottom
of the door slab also rubs just slightly. The door handle side is
perfectly
even with its opposing strike jamb. The hinge jamb is also even with
it's
opposing left door slab. Doesn't make sense that this is an installation
issue, but the company that sold me the door swares it is, and will not
repair it.

The only thing I can figure is that the door was manufactured not
square.
The header may have been manufactured slightly bowed or unleveled
(higher
at
one end). I can no longer move the prehung door unit as it is firmly in
place. Is there a way to fix this another way? The weatherstipping does
not
cover the top to completely hide the outside and even after I apply the
molding, you can still see this space at the top even if the
weatherstipping
did seal it. Besides the door does rub slightly at the sill causing a
functionality problem.

Is the 1/2" to 3/4" gap constant across the entire top of the door?
Does the bottom of the door rub in one area only or all the way across the
bottom?
Was this a custom manufactured door slab or a standard factory size?
Check the sides for plumb and the top and bottom for level and measure the
diagonals. Sounds to me like an installation problem. The odds of a
manufactured door being out-of-square is pretty remote.

-al sung
Rapid Realm Technology, Inc.
Hopkinton, MA

"Billy" wrote in message
...
The door manufacturers rep came by to look at the door and he said it is
racked between an 1/8" and 1/4". He believes this is causing the gap at
the
top. He says removing the door and leveling the sill will correct the
issue.

Does this sound feasible?

Have you put a level on the bottom of the door frame?
I would think that leveling a sill plate would be much harder than shimming
the door frame to be level and plumb. I would use the wide cedar shakes for
shimming the bottom rather than those 2" pine shim packs.
Removing a door frame can be done, but it is a pain and you may damage some
of the wood trying to get the nails out. If you nailed thru the jamb, then
try to use a flat pry bar between the door frame and the jack stud in order
to force the nail head out. If you nailed thru a brick-molding or flange,
then you might have to sacrifice that piece of wood. Sometimes people have
been successful with using a hacksaw blade behind the brick molding to cut
the nails

-al sung
Rapid Realm Technology, Inc.
Hopkinton, MA