GE gas range 14 years old, model jgbp30bew1ad. No heat on bake, no
heat on broil, stove works fine. Last time the oven worked, it gave a
pop noise and then stopped working; visual inspection of the igniter
shows the igniter melted a hole in the flame spreader (maybe because
the repairman who replaced the igniter 7 months ago told me he always
points the igniter up towards the spreader to give "a nice long
flame") and this drop of molten metal landed on the igniter during
baking, shorting the inner core to the metal shield. I called the
repairman, he put in a new bake igniter but still no flame on bake nor
on broil. He quickly measured no voltage at the gas valve, but didn't
try to diagnose it further. After he left I pulled out and measured
the new igniter and it's 838 ohms (is that too high)?

Is it likely the gas valve burnt out, on both bake and broil, due to
this shorting out of the bake igniter? Or maybe it's the control
board? I still hear a relay click on when I turn the oven knob on for
bake, same for broil. And even self-clean cycle indicators light up
and it starts a count-down, of course there's no heat in the
oven...Maybe just the thermostat? Or is it just time to get a new
range...

Thanks.

wrote in message
GE gas range 14 years old, model jgbp30bew1ad. No heat on bake, no
heat on broil, stove works fine.

Is it likely the gas valve burnt out, on both bake and broil, due to
this shorting out of the bake igniter? Or maybe it's the control
board? I still hear a relay click on when I turn the oven knob on for
bake, same for broil. And even self-clean cycle indicators light up
and it starts a count-down, of course there's no heat in the
oven...Maybe just the thermostat? Or is it just time to get a new
range...

Thanks.

Most likely a safety/sensor of some sort that will not allow the valve to
open. At 14 years, you may want to consider replacing rather than put a
couple of hundred into diagnostics and repair. Sure, it can last another
five or ten years, but just don't dump a tone of $$$.

You may want to check out www.repairclinic.com for some diagnostics.

The ignitor needs to draw between a certain range of amps,
for the valve to open. Sounds like you need a new HSI. Put
in as directed, not by someone creative.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
GE gas range 14 years old, model jgbp30bew1ad. No heat on
bake, no
heat on broil, stove works fine. Last time the oven worked,
it gave a
pop noise and then stopped working; visual inspection of the
igniter
shows the igniter melted a hole in the flame spreader (maybe
because
the repairman who replaced the igniter 7 months ago told me
he always
points the igniter up towards the spreader to give "a nice
long
flame") and this drop of molten metal landed on the igniter
during
baking, shorting the inner core to the metal shield. I
called the
repairman, he put in a new bake igniter but still no flame
on bake nor
on broil. He quickly measured no voltage at the gas valve,
but didn't
try to diagnose it further. After he left I pulled out and
measured
the new igniter and it's 838 ohms (is that too high)?

Is it likely the gas valve burnt out, on both bake and
broil, due to
this shorting out of the bake igniter? Or maybe it's the
control
board? I still hear a relay click on when I turn the oven
knob on for
bake, same for broil. And even self-clean cycle indicators
light up
and it starts a count-down, of course there's no heat in the
oven...Maybe just the thermostat? Or is it just time to get
a new
range...

Thanks.