I've got a 1988 model RS6100XKN built-in with a bake element that isn't
heating up. The broiler element and everything else works OK. I figured this
would just be a simple element swap, but it tested out at 22 ohms on my VOM.
I was expecting no continuity at all; from what I've been able to find the
22 may be in a normal range, maybe a bit lower than what I would have
expected. So then I hooked up the VOM, set for voltage, to the terminals at
the back of the oven. Powered up, I show 34V with the selector set on Bake,
moving up to 45V when I rotate the temperature selector to any given
setting.
Questions: shouldn't I be getting a full 220v on this circuit, and if so,
why would it be so low? I didn't test the broiler voltage but it gets plenty
hot. Also, I had the VOM set for AC voltage, as I assume that there isn't a
conversion to DC. Sorry if that sounds dumb, but I want to be sure I'm on
the right track. Set me right if I'm not.
Any and all help/comments on this is much appreciated.

Fred

Hi Fred,

20 - 22 ohms is OK, and you're right to test for 240VAC.
There's no rectification here, it's just plain vanilla 60 hz AC.
And that's the fastest way to check the element, being careful,
of course, to keep test terminals away from the cabinet
(and yourself!). 240V to element/no heat = open element.
No 240V to element = look elsewhere, usually burnt wire
(or on some ranges, the analog clock set to 'off')

If the oven indicator light's coming on, the clock's prob OK;
but some of these can get set to 'off' rather than 'manual' if
you've no separate 'time bake' setting on the selector switch.
Used to be a common problem on the GM Frigidaires. It
was very easy to switch them when cleaning the stove.

I suspect a burnt terminal, possibly at the broil element's
(usually shared) connection. Probably not what you want to
hear, but I'd pull it out far enough to remove the back cover
and check the wiring.

I don't appear to have a diagram for your model, but there
should be one on the range. Sometimes on the back, and
once in a while inside the control panel (argh!).

But you'll often see the problem once you pull the back and
look around. Just power it down first. This article from my
newsletter may be of some help:
http://www.DavesRepair.com/DIYhelp/D...telectoven.htm

Hope this is of some help.

God bless,

Dave Harnish
Dave's Repair Service
New Albany, PA
www.DavesRepair.com

570-363-2404

Free home appliance tips from a 32-year pro repair
technician! Get your monthly email newsletter he
(Back issues now posted too!) www.DavesRepair.com

John 3:3

"Fred Parks" wrote in message
news:MT8rd.591847$mD.400681@attbi_s02...
I've got a 1988 model RS6100XKN built-in with a bake element that isn't
heating up. The broiler element and everything else works OK. I figured
this
would just be a simple element swap, but it tested out at 22 ohms on my
VOM.
I was expecting no continuity at all; from what I've been able to find the
22 may be in a normal range, maybe a bit lower than what I would have
expected. So then I hooked up the VOM, set for voltage, to the terminals
at
the back of the oven. Powered up, I show 34V with the selector set on
Bake,
moving up to 45V when I rotate the temperature selector to any given
setting.
Questions: shouldn't I be getting a full 220v on this circuit, and if so,
why would it be so low? I didn't test the broiler voltage but it gets
plenty
hot. Also, I had the VOM set for AC voltage, as I assume that there isn't
a
conversion to DC. Sorry if that sounds dumb, but I want to be sure I'm on
the right track. Set me right if I'm not.
Any and all help/comments on this is much appreciated.

Fred