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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I
choose? |
#2
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You trying to kill ur wife or sumthin?? just kidding...
seriously though, a hairdryer?? why not just throw it out and buy a new one?? |
#3
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majortom wrote:
You trying to kill ur wife or sumthin?? just kidding... seriously though, a hairdryer?? why not just throw it out and buy a new one?? What again is the name of this newsgroup? By any chance it has something to do with repair? --- Met vriendelijke groet, Maarten Bakker. |
#4
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![]() Martik wrote: Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I choose? Martik: As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C lower temperature rated thermal fuse. As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire. electricitym .. .. .. |
#6
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![]() "Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message ... writes: Martik wrote: Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I choose? Martik: As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C lower temperature rated thermal fuse. As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire. electricitym And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat. what hair dryer has a thermostat? none of the ones I have worked on, the different temperature settings are usually done by putting the heaters in different combination series /parallel and shorting out sections, speed of the motor is also done by putting a low voltage motor across different amounts of the heater element, usually you have a thermal bi metal cut out backed up by a thermal fuse, if the thermal fuse goes I would look for a stuck cut out and a blocked intake grill |
#7
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Kevin R:
The automatically resetting thermal bi-metal cutout or "thermostat" is what Sam Goldwasser was referring to here. -- Best Regards, Daniel Sofie Electronics Supply & Repair - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Kevin R" wrote in message ... "Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message ... writes: Martik wrote: Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I choose? Martik: As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C lower temperature rated thermal fuse. As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire. electricitym And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat. what hair dryer has a thermostat? none of the ones I have worked on, the different temperature settings are usually done by putting the heaters in different combination series /parallel and shorting out sections, speed of the motor is also done by putting a low voltage motor across different amounts of the heater element, usually you have a thermal bi metal cut out backed up by a thermal fuse, if the thermal fuse goes I would look for a stuck cut out and a blocked intake grill |
#8
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Ah I am on the right wave length now
Kevin "sofie" wrote in message ... Kevin R: The automatically resetting thermal bi-metal cutout or "thermostat" is what Sam Goldwasser was referring to here. -- Best Regards, Daniel Sofie Electronics Supply & Repair - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Kevin R" wrote in message ... "Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message ... writes: Martik wrote: Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I choose? Martik: As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C lower temperature rated thermal fuse. As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire. electricitym And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat. what hair dryer has a thermostat? none of the ones I have worked on, the different temperature settings are usually done by putting the heaters in different combination series /parallel and shorting out sections, speed of the motor is also done by putting a low voltage motor across different amounts of the heater element, usually you have a thermal bi metal cut out backed up by a thermal fuse, if the thermal fuse goes I would look for a stuck cut out and a blocked intake grill |
#9
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"Kevin R" writes:
"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message ... writes: Martik wrote: Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I choose? Martik: As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C lower temperature rated thermal fuse. As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire. electricitym And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat. what hair dryer has a thermostat? none of the ones I have worked on, the different temperature settings are usually done by putting the heaters in different combination series /parallel and shorting out sections, speed of the motor is also done by putting a low voltage motor across different amounts of the heater element, usually you have a thermal bi metal cut out backed up by a thermal fuse, if the thermal fuse goes I would look for a stuck cut out and a blocked intake grill It's not for temperature regulation, it's a second overtemp sensor. If the end is blocked or the temperature rises for some reason, it will shut interrupt power. Not sure how many might have that but one I looked at recently did. --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive traffic on Repairfaq.org. Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. |
#10
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![]() "Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message ... writes: Martik wrote: Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I choose? Martik: As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C lower temperature rated thermal fuse. As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire. electricitym And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat. Salvage the fan motor, they're actually pretty cool most of the time, quite powerful little DC motors. |
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