Hello,

I've got a Dell P1110 that came to me with multiple problems. It had the
well-known excessive brightness problem which I cured using the hack of
bridging an additional resistor across one of the two 10M resistors that
lead to G2. It also had a slow warmup...around 60 seconds before a picture
would appear. This was cured by replacing C685 on the power supply board
which was high ESR.

The last problem I haven't been able to figure out yet. I belive this
problem started when I used the "color return" function available from the
user controls, but I can't remember for sure. Basically, the front panel
brightness controls have little or no effect on brightness, but they do
affect the color temperature. A low brightness setting gives the screen a
blueish tint, while a high brightness setting gives the screen a reddish
tint. The contrast control seems to work fine from what I can tell.

If anyone has any ideas of what may be wrong, I'd be interested in hearing
them. Either that or can I "undo" the color return function? i.e. Is
there some "reset" I can access through a hidden menu or something?

Thanks,
Mike Cencula

"Michael D. Cencula" wrote in message
news
Hello,

I've got a Dell P1110 that came to me with multiple problems. It had the
well-known excessive brightness problem which I cured using the hack of
bridging an additional resistor across one of the two 10M resistors that
lead to G2. It also had a slow warmup...around 60 seconds before a
picture
would appear. This was cured by replacing C685 on the power supply board
which was high ESR.

The last problem I haven't been able to figure out yet. I belive this
problem started when I used the "color return" function available from the
user controls, but I can't remember for sure. Basically, the front panel
brightness controls have little or no effect on brightness, but they do
affect the color temperature. A low brightness setting gives the screen a
blueish tint, while a high brightness setting gives the screen a reddish
tint. The contrast control seems to work fine from what I can tell.

If anyone has any ideas of what may be wrong, I'd be interested in hearing
them. Either that or can I "undo" the color return function? i.e. Is
there some "reset" I can access through a hidden menu or something?

Thanks,
Mike Cencula




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Paste unknown old post here

I have repaired over 500 Dell P1110
Most of the problems I have seen are for Excessively bright picture.
R459 is the best to Mod and Have found that 5.6M ohms to 7.5M ohms to be
the repair range depending on how bright the picture has become. The lower
the Value of R459 the darker the picture will become. I have noticed that
when a lower value is needed often the bightness adjustment will also
shift the picture color. Darker settings will shift to blue and brighter
settings will shift to red. I have not found a way to compensate or repair
this problem. I have a number of P1110 that have convergence problems
where the center of the picture is good but the sides and top/bottom are
off, front panel controls have no effect on edges of screen, and
convergence rings and yoke adjustment cannot restore good picture. This is
a problem with the video board on the bottom of chassis, I have swapped
this out and restored convergence. It's not always perfect as DAS
adjustment is need to align monitor.
DAS
I have located many different versions of the Sony DAS. some for DOS and
some for windows 9x, all require dongle (HASP). I have also located many
HASP emulator progams. I have yet to get them to work without the Hasp. I
did find one DOS version Of the DAS that has been BIN hacked to ignore the
Hasp search. I was able to read the information from the EEPROM with the
hacked version, But the version did not have the Data to reprogam the
EEPROM in the Dell P1110. So I am working on hacking the Dell DAS version
DAS 4.9.1. *** wish me luck ! *****

I addition to needing the DAS software and the HASP or a work around you
will need to get 3 peices from SONY that create an interface between a
desktop PC and the monitor you are adjusting. This "JIG" rig (3 pieces)
cost about $250 plus shipping.

I don't understand why this Crap is such a hassle to get unless Sony
doesn't want you to to be able repair your own Monitor, even if you are
technically capable !


I found this post a few weeks ago and using a 14M resistor paralled, managed
an acceptable repair. Some intermittent color issues were observed but the
user "cleared" them. I do not know who posted this or where, I googled got
lucky and copied it for my own use. Maybe the original poster will
recognize his work and follow up.
--
They can have my command prompt when they pry it from my cold dead fingers.