I have about a 5 year old KitchenAid (Whirlpool) top loading, direct drive
(no belt), washing machine that rapidly progressed from vibrating on all
cycles to no tub or agitator motion at all. I got a book from the library
titled "Washing Machine Repair Under $40" which is quite good -- I had used
this series of books before for dryer belt replacement. I've found that the
motor is fine but the three plastic teeth of the coupling between the motor
and transmission are sheared off. The book says this would typically be
caused by transmission lockup but the transmission turns freely in both
directions by hand which the book suggests is indicative of the transmission
being OK. So there's a gap in the guidance given by the book. Is there a
way for me to evaluate transmission function? Would an appliance repair
shop do this for me? Is it possible that I need do nothing more than
replace the coupling because shear force from repeated stops and starts
simply caused it to break?

Roger

I have about a 5 year old KitchenAid (Whirlpool) top loading, direct drive
(no belt), washing machine that rapidly progressed from vibrating on all
cycles to no tub or agitator motion at all. I got a book from the library
titled "Washing Machine Repair Under $40" which is quite good -- I had used
this series of books before for dryer belt replacement. I've found that the
motor is fine but the three plastic teeth of the coupling between the motor
and transmission are sheared off. The book says this would typically be
caused by transmission lockup but the transmission turns freely in both
directions by hand which the book suggests is indicative of the transmission
being OK. So there's a gap in the guidance given by the book. Is there a
way for me to evaluate transmission function? Would an appliance repair
shop do this for me? Is it possible that I need do nothing more than
replace the coupling because shear force from repeated stops and starts
simply caused it to break?

Roger


My wife's washer did the same thing. I replaced the coupler and I noticed it
shook like crazy when in the spin mode. When I put the machine on it's side, I
misaligned a part in the bottom, a triangular shaped metal plate under the tub.
After I got it lined back up, the vibration went away. If you've have the
machine shake excessively, or have transported it on it's side, it's a likely
culprit.

Either way, replace the coupler, it's not that expensive of a part, and the
replacements are tougher that the originals anyhow.

Raymond

Raymond Cruz wrote

I have about a 5 year old KitchenAid (Whirlpool)
top loading, direct drive (no belt), washing
machine that rapidly progressed from vibrating
on all cycles to no tub or agitator motion at all.

I've found that the motor is fine but the three
plastic teeth of the coupling between the motor
and transmission are sheared off. The book
says this would typically be caused by
transmission lockup

The motor couplers on Whirlpool direct drive washers can break for all
sorts of reasons, not necessarily due to a transmission problem.

Is there a way for me to evaluate transmission function?

Replace the $10 coupling and see if it happens again.

Whirlpool 'direct dive' washer drive coupler:
http://tinyurl.com/35m96

Would an appliance repair shop do this for me?

Not likely... especially if you planned on removing the transmission
from the washer and only taking it to them. If they performed the
service on the washer in your home, they probably do the same thing as
i suggested. The once it was running again, look for possible causes.

Is it possible that I need do nothing more than
replace the coupling because shear force from
repeated stops and starts simply caused it to
break?

I would say that's the most likely cause (if not overloading, basement
too cold, excessive vibration, among other possibilities) although if
you find that it's "vibrating on all cycles" again, you should have
that looked into *before* it causes more damage this time. Although
the couple could have been the cause of that.

JMO

Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Whirlpool+washer

=Ð~~~~~~

"Raymond Cruz" wrote in message . ..

Hi,

I have about a 5 year old KitchenAid (Whirlpool) top loading, direct drive
(no belt), washing machine that rapidly progressed from vibrating on all
cycles to no tub or agitator motion at all.

I've found that the
motor is fine but the three plastic teeth of the coupling between the motor
and transmission are sheared off.

= new motor coupler time.
http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...ntomotcou.html
Motor drive coupler.

The book says this would typically be
caused by transmission lockup but the transmission turns freely in both
directions by hand which the book suggests is indicative of the transmission
being OK.

Broken coupler is normally NOT a locked up tranny/gearbox. Soem wear
and break on there own, some break from overloading the washer, some
break from hard stops and starts of the spin basket.

So there's a gap in the guidance given by the book. Is there a
way for me to evaluate transmission function?

Just turn the tranny post manually in each direction....one way is
agitation, the other way/direction is spin...if this occurs the tranny
should be ok.

Would an appliance repair
shop do this for me?

If you brought them the tranny/gearbox, probably yes.

Is it possible that I need do nothing more than
replace the coupling because shear force from repeated stops and starts
simply caused it to break?

Yes

Happens all the time.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

I bought a new coupler but before installing it I followed the advice of
manually turning the transmission post in both directions. In the counter
clockwise direction there is agitation but in the clockwise direction the
post locks after about 10 turns. Could this be because the brake is
preventing the tub from spinning or is it more likely a transmission
problem? BTW, the parts store suggested that these transmissions have a 5
year warranty and I think mine is just under 5 years old but I need to
search for my sales receipt.

Thanks,
R.C.

I've found that the
motor is fine but the three plastic teeth of the coupling between the
motor
and transmission are sheared off.
The book says this would typically be
caused by transmission lockup but the transmission turns freely in both
directions by hand which the book suggests is indicative of the
transmission
being OK.
So there's a gap in the guidance given by the book. Is there a
way for me to evaluate transmission function?

Just turn the tranny post manually in each direction....one way is
agitation, the other way/direction is spin...if this occurs the tranny
should be ok.

"Raymond Cruz" wrote in message .. .
I bought a new coupler but before installing it I followed the advice of
manually turning the transmission post in both directions. In the counter
clockwise direction there is agitation but in the clockwise direction the
post locks after about 10 turns. Could this be because the brake is
preventing the tub from spinning or is it more likely a transmission
problem? BTW, the parts store suggested that these transmissions have a 5
year warranty and I think mine is just under 5 years old but I need to
search for my sales receipt.

Hi,

In the counter
clockwise direction there is agitation but in the clockwise direction the
post locks after about 10 turns. Could this be because the brake is
preventing the tub from spinning

Comes to a stop?...or just gets stiff?...can you turn it any further?

Could this be because the brake is
preventing the tub from spinning or is it more likely a transmission
problem?

Please see above.

the parts store suggested that these transmissions have a 5
year warranty and I think mine is just under 5 years old but I need to
search for my sales receipt.

That is true, should have a min of 5 year parts only warranty on the
tranny/gearbox

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

OK -- you encouraged me to try harder. Now I see that with much, much more
force than was needed counter clockwise to agitate, the tub spins with
clockwise rotation of the shaft. I guess this means I should go ahead and
reassemble with the new coupler.

RHL

In the counter
clockwise direction there is agitation but in the clockwise direction
the
post locks after about 10 turns. Could this be because the brake is
preventing the tub from spinning

Comes to a stop?...or just gets stiff?...can you turn it any further?

"Raymond Cruz" wrote in message .. .
OK -- you encouraged me to try harder. Now I see that with much, much more
force than was needed counter clockwise to agitate, the tub spins with
clockwise rotation of the shaft. I guess this means I should go ahead and
reassemble with the new coupler.

RHL

Hi,

I would.

The agitation direction is fairly easy to turn and the spin direction
starts to get stiff when pushing against the brake and the clutch is
loading up to start the basket to spin.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Not saying this is your problem or anything, but I will tell you something
that happened with my old washer. May agitator stopped working in it. I,
for the life of me could not figure out why. First thing I thought was the
Transmission. I knew it ran and everything, but would not wash the clothes,
and the agitator would not move, other then when the spin cycle was put into
motion. Well, I was considering replacing the transmission, but for some
reason, I decided to take the cap off the agitator, and look down in there.
Sure and behold, there were 2 little fingers that worked on a ratchet
system. They were both worn, and were not working. I talked to a repairman
I knew, and he said it is common that they wear out. So, I spent 4 bucks,
replaced them, and it was all fine and dandy. I am not saying this is your
prob, or that your unit even has them. But just an idea, I would throw out,
and may be useful info for anyone else that has a problem in the future...

Rick


"Raymond Cruz" wrote in message
...
OK -- you encouraged me to try harder. Now I see that with much, much
more
force than was needed counter clockwise to agitate, the tub spins with
clockwise rotation of the shaft. I guess this means I should go ahead and
reassemble with the new coupler.

RHL

In the counter
clockwise direction there is agitation but in the clockwise direction
the
post locks after about 10 turns. Could this be because the brake is
preventing the tub from spinning

Comes to a stop?...or just gets stiff?...can you turn it any further?