Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.

On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 9:30:47 AM UTC-8, Bill E. wrote:
Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion

First, protect the bearings (you might want to replace and/or clean/relube them, but
that's another issue). Then, remove any loose material from the corroded area
(wire brush, if you can get access without endangering the wiring).
Any brown rust can be stabilized (turned to black oxide) with rust converter
chemical coatings, but I'd usually just rub on some wax and warm the area with
a torch.

Mainly, if there's any condensing moisture around, you want the surface to
be non-hydrophilic so moisture doesn't invade a rust pit and enlarge it...

On 01/15/2015 12:49 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 9:30:47 AM UTC-8, Bill E. wrote:
Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion

First, protect the bearings (you might want to replace and/or clean/relube them, but
that's another issue). Then, remove any loose material from the corroded area
(wire brush, if you can get access without endangering the wiring).
Any brown rust can be stabilized (turned to black oxide) with rust converter
chemical coatings, but I'd usually just rub on some wax and warm the area with
a torch.

Mainly, if there's any condensing moisture around, you want the surface to
be non-hydrophilic so moisture doesn't invade a rust pit and enlarge it...


Depending on the value of the motor and your shop equipment, you could
turn the shafts of the motor down a bit and put sleeve bushings in to
build it back up to the new bearings...you aren't planning on reusing
the old bearings, eh? With corrosion on the shaft the balls must be
nasty even if it looks sealed...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Bill E wrote:

Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?

On 01/16/2015 8:48 AM, wrote:
Bill E wrote:

Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting, and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating. Liquid
Wrench is also a fast evaporating solvent with stuff in it to break oxides.

Not what you want left in a bearing I suspect!

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson wrote:


WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.



.... Phil

On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:


WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.



.... Phil


Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.

A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.

(ducking)

John ;-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson wrote:

On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:


WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.



.... Phil


Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.

A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.


http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf...d494716385.pdf

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

John Robertson wrote:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.


Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.


** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most mechanical watches and clocks.

Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants and cannot use mineral oil.

It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with heat.

The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running again in seconds.


.... Phil

On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 8:27:21 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:
On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:
On 01/16/2015 8:48 AM, wrote in
sci.electronics.repair:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?

If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses

and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.

** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.

.... Phil

Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.

A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.

I can't see any other lub not gumming up the work too, though.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 17:27:07 -0800, John Robertson
wrote:

On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:


WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.



.... Phil


Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.

A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.

(ducking)

John ;-#)#
WD40 is good for some stuff but it does indeed leave a waxy coating
behind when it dries. For this reason it only gets used in my shop for
certain things. It does smell good though, which makes it nice to use
for rust removal when using it with steel wool or scotchbrite.
Eric

wrote:


WD40 is good for some stuff but it does indeed leave a waxy coating
behind when it dries.

** ********.

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40_faqs


For this reason it only gets used in my shop for
certain things.

** Then your are missing out very badly.


.... Phil

In message , Phil
Allison writes
John Robertson wrote:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.


Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.


** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.

Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.

It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.

The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.

I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutely
solid. After applying some WD40 (and, I believe, it needed the tip of a
hot soldering iron applied to the end of the spindle) I eventually got
it freed off. I treated it to a little more WD40, cleaned off the
surplus, replaced the rubber bung etc - and it was still running happily
18 months later, when I decided to do another service. This time I gave
it a couple of drops of 3-in-1.



--
Ian

On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 6:32:23 PM UTC-5, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Phil
Allison writes
John Robertson wrote:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.


Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.


** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.

Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.

It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.

The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.

I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutely
solid. After applying some WD40 (and, I believe, it needed the tip of a
hot soldering iron applied to the end of the spindle) I eventually got
it freed off. I treated it to a little more WD40, cleaned off the
surplus, replaced the rubber bung etc - and it was still running happily
18 months later, when I decided to do another service. This time I gave
it a couple of drops of 3-in-1.

I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket sized WD-40 mini-spray can. I'm not really focused on that right now, though.

Right now, I'm bogged down trying to clean a toilet drain. The new weight loss stuff is clogging plumbing drains a lot quicker. I'm going to try to find a little piece, maybe just 10 feet or so - of snake line fish tape and swirl it with some laundry detergent. You know, the new 3x stuff. That should really clean the line out. Or is it time for muriatic acid. I don't know. We'll see.

On Saturday, January 24, 2015 at 10:52:48 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 6:32:23 PM UTC-5, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Phil
Allison writes
John Robertson wrote:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?

If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses

and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.

Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.

** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.

Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.

It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.

The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.

I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutely
solid. After applying some WD40 (and, I believe, it needed the tip of a
hot soldering iron applied to the end of the spindle) I eventually got
it freed off. I treated it to a little more WD40, cleaned off the
surplus, replaced the rubber bung etc - and it was still running happily
18 months later, when I decided to do another service. This time I gave
it a couple of drops of 3-in-1.

I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket sized WD-40 mini-spray can. I'm not really focused on that right now, though.

Right now, I'm bogged down trying to clean a toilet drain. The
new weight loss stuff is clogging plumbing drains a lot quicker.
I'm going to try to find a little piece, maybe just 10 feet or
so - of snake line fish tape and swirl it with some laundry
detergent. You know, the new 3x stuff. That should really
clean the line out. Or is it time for muriatic acid. I don't
know. We'll see.

The truth is, sometimes I can't get out from these video games. Ha ha.

In message ,
writes

I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid
wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket
sized WD-40 mini-spray can.

http://www.3inone.com/original/
Normally, one can will serve a household for a lifetime. However, it
suffers from the same problem as your can of WD40, ie you can never find
it when you need it - so you need to buy another. As a result, you end
up with several cans of various vintages, distributed all over the house
and garage.




--
Ian

wrote:


I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket sized WD-40 mini-spray can. I'm not really focused on that right now, though.


It's sold for use in sewing machines. My mother used it for decades,
about a can a year on her commercial sewing machine.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.