Bill E wrote:

Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that
is inside the bearings.
What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical)
and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon
lube when reassembling.

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?

On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 8:27:21 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:
On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:
On 01/16/2015 8:48 AM, wrote in
sci.electronics.repair:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?

If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses

and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.

** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.

.... Phil

Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.

A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder'
drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.

I can't see any other lub not gumming up the work too, though.

On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 6:32:23 PM UTC-5, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Phil
Allison writes
John Robertson wrote:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?


If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses


and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.


Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.


** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.

Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.

It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.

The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.

I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutely
solid. After applying some WD40 (and, I believe, it needed the tip of a
hot soldering iron applied to the end of the spindle) I eventually got
it freed off. I treated it to a little more WD40, cleaned off the
surplus, replaced the rubber bung etc - and it was still running happily
18 months later, when I decided to do another service. This time I gave
it a couple of drops of 3-in-1.

I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket sized WD-40 mini-spray can. I'm not really focused on that right now, though.

Right now, I'm bogged down trying to clean a toilet drain. The new weight loss stuff is clogging plumbing drains a lot quicker. I'm going to try to find a little piece, maybe just 10 feet or so - of snake line fish tape and swirl it with some laundry detergent. You know, the new 3x stuff. That should really clean the line out. Or is it time for muriatic acid. I don't know. We'll see.

On Saturday, January 24, 2015 at 10:52:48 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, January 23, 2015 at 6:32:23 PM UTC-5, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Phil
Allison writes
John Robertson wrote:

WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?

If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!

WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,

** See:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses

and the solvents in it
evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.


** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.

Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.

My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a
gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to
take apart to repair.

** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must
have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most
mechanical watches and clocks.

Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants
and cannot use mineral oil.

It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by
dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with
heat.

The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans
sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running
again in seconds.

I had a PC power supply plain bearing fan which seized-up absolutely
solid. After applying some WD40 (and, I believe, it needed the tip of a
hot soldering iron applied to the end of the spindle) I eventually got
it freed off. I treated it to a little more WD40, cleaned off the
surplus, replaced the rubber bung etc - and it was still running happily
18 months later, when I decided to do another service. This time I gave
it a couple of drops of 3-in-1.

I've never heard of 3-in-1. Is it auto mechanics stuff or like liquid wrench? I might go and try a bottle. I keep losing the small pocket sized WD-40 mini-spray can. I'm not really focused on that right now, though.

Right now, I'm bogged down trying to clean a toilet drain. The
new weight loss stuff is clogging plumbing drains a lot quicker.
I'm going to try to find a little piece, maybe just 10 feet or
so - of snake line fish tape and swirl it with some laundry
detergent. You know, the new 3x stuff. That should really
clean the line out. Or is it time for muriatic acid. I don't
know. We'll see.

The truth is, sometimes I can't get out from these video games. Ha ha.