These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539
Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.

On 2014-01-25, N_Cook wrote:
These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539

Note that "jack socket" is redundant because a jack is a socket.

(And, likewise, what goes in is called a plug, not a "jack" or "jack plug".)

Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar.

That kind of barrel jack is used in acoustic guitars, where it has to
go through a thick block of wood, like an end-block.

If there is any possibility that it fits you instrument, you should use an
"open frame" jack made by Switchcraft:

http://www.switchcraft.com/productsu...spx?Parent=925

These things are tough and last for years.

The tip contact can be bent slightly to adjust the tension needed to remove the
jack.

Once in a while, polish the contacts with metal polish like Brasso
or Silvo, and you're good.

On 26/01/2014 05:30, Kaz Kylheku wrote:
On 2014-01-25, N_Cook wrote:
These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539

Note that "jack socket" is redundant because a jack is a socket.

(And, likewise, what goes in is called a plug, not a "jack" or "jack plug".)

Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar.

That kind of barrel jack is used in acoustic guitars, where it has to
go through a thick block of wood, like an end-block.

If there is any possibility that it fits you instrument, you should use an
"open frame" jack made by Switchcraft:

http://www.switchcraft.com/productsu...spx?Parent=925

These things are tough and last for years.

The tip contact can be bent slightly to adjust the tension needed to remove the
jack.

Once in a while, polish the contacts with metal polish like Brasso
or Silvo, and you're good.


On jacks/plugs/sockets
my translator file
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tool_terms.htm

That said, subject should though have used the term output, not input
I cannot see how removing an extra cubic inch of wood of the guitar body
would change the acoustic structure of an electric guitar noticably,
and enlarge the access panel cover a bit. Presumably as a major , long
established guitar manufacturer , they must do it for guaranteed repeat
maintainence fees over the years.
Then as you say an open frame socket would go in there instead of
inherently weak long stem sockets.

On 01/25/2014 06:02 AM, N_Cook wrote:
These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539

Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.

A lot of players use wireless when duck walking these days. I'd use a
surplus open frame switchboard jack, long skinny brass thing, lasts forever.

http://picclick.com/Bell-System-West...115444323.html

On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:39:12 -0700, dave wrote:

...snip...
A lot of players use wireless when duck walking these days. I'd use a
surplus open frame switchboard jack, long skinny brass thing, lasts
forever.

http://picclick.com/Bell-System-West...115444323.html

THANKS! needed those!

"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539
Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.





No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will last
a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
going to better your reputation.
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp



Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" wrote in message ...



"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539
Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.





No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will last
a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
going to better your reputation.
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp



Gareth.





Oops, I didn't properly read your post.
It seems you are going to bodge the crap one instead of replacing it with a
good one.

Never mind, eh.


Gareth.

On 01/27/2014 02:41 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote:


"Gareth Magennis" wrote in message ...



"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539

Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.





No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will
last
a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
going to better your reputation.
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp



Gareth.





Oops, I didn't properly read your post.
It seems you are going to bodge the crap one instead of replacing it
with a good one.

Never mind, eh.


Gareth.


Here is a nice variety of solutions.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electron...ts:_Jacks.html

good for model numbers if nothing else..

On 27/01/2014 21:54, Gareth Magennis wrote:


"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JAC...-/400092374539

Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.





No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will
last a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
going to better your reputation.
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp



Gareth.

There is more metal making up the escutchion part , but is the internal
construction any different to the no-namers?
I've not found quoted insert/extract forces for any of them. I get the
notion this is the main criteria for guitarists, implying how sloppy the
jack is in the socket.

Another good name guitar in with a dodgey output socket. This time small
stem open frame Switchcraft. Are you sure Switchcraft is the bees-knees?
Central barrel turned in the shield contact tag section with just finger
grip turning force required, so breaking contact in use. Large
ballbearing and vice to re-swage that and for good measure a small lip
return on the open end of the tip contact, the 2 tags for T and S , bent
outwards a bit and a stout "O" ring run around all 3 for much improved
tip contact force. Would a replacement Switchcraft one have been any
better these days ? Bad design point there is what used to be
paxolin/tufnal disc spacers is now , presumably more compressible, pcb
type material. Plus I suspect the material that makes the tip contact
these days looses springiness/deforms easier over useage/time than
whatever they used to be made of

"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

Another good name guitar in with a dodgey output socket. This time small
stem open frame Switchcraft. Are you sure Switchcraft is the bees-knees?





I was only referring to the long barrel types.



Cheers,


Gareth.