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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual
price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 # http://802.11junk.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS |
#2
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Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 # http://802.11junk.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS Can you get it apart far enough to put the panels through the dishwasher a few times? Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 845-480-2058 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
#3
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In article ,
Jeff Liebermann wrote: I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? I've had pretty good success with mineral spirits, but sometimes it takes a while. First, make sure there's not a left-over plastic film on top of the adhesive -- if there is, the solvent won't do anything. Get a folded rag pretty damp with the spirits and drape it over the printer (you may have to do this one side at the time). As you said, sometimes the goo just won't dissolve, but it will get soft, so go after it with a toothbrush (to loosen) and a nearly dry paper towel (to wipe up); it will load up with goo and need to be replaced fairly often. Also, *carefully applied* heat can do wonders; many of the adhesives that are rock hard at room temperature soften up nicely after a few minutes in front of an incandescent bulb in a reflector. If you can do the heat trick first, it's often possible to pull the stickers off intact, especially if you peel slooooowly. Or, I suppose you could just take it to Earl Scheib 8^} Isaac |
#4
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Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
... I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 # http://802.11junk.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS I always start with a hot air gun on low heat and finger nails (not simultaneously) |
#5
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On 3/14/2012 11:21 PM, isw wrote:
In , Jeff wrote: Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? Or, I suppose you could just take it to Earl Scheib 8^} Isaac That was my thought, just paint over it. Mikek |
#6
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I'm surprised Goo-Gone won't remove it.
Ditto for MEK. That'll dissolve anything -- including your lungs. |
#7
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![]() "Jeff Liebermann" schreef in bericht ... I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 # http://802.11junk.com # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS I always use white spirit though it might be too strong for the plastics involved. Some stronger solvents usually tend to damage the surface so I kept away from them. If anyone ever used a solvent that solves the plastic only slightly, part of the dirt may be catched in the surface and (almost) impossible to remove. petrus bitbyter |
#8
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On Mar 14, 7:07*pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. *I soon discovered why it was so cheap. *A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. *Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. *Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. *All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. *I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 #http://802.11junk.com* * * * * * * #http://www.LearnByDestroying.com* * * * * * * AE6KS Jeff, You're right in the area: the Plastics experts for YEARS! These guys KNOW plastic. San Leandro HQ 510 357 3755 TAP Plastics (408) 292 8685 1212 The Alameda San Jose, CA 95125 TAP Plastics Inc (408) 265-6400 1008 Blossom Hill Rd # F San Jose, CA 95123 TAP Plastics Inc (650) 962-8430 312 Castro St Mtn View, CA 94041 http://www.tapplastics.com |
#9
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On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? Should take less than one can of spray paint -- choose your favorite color at an auto supply store... Jonesy |
#10
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 00:05:25 -0400, Phil Hobbs
wrote: Can you get it apart far enough to put the panels through the dishwasher a few times? Cheers Phil Hobbs Yes, but I'm not sure a dishwasher is such a great idea. The ABS plastic will probably melt in the dishwasher. I also tried hot water and laundry detergent, without much luck. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#11
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On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:21:13 -0700, isw wrote:
I've had pretty good success with mineral spirits, but sometimes it takes a while. I haven't tried mineral spirits, but I'll give it a try. So far, I have about 2-3 hours of brute force cleaning. I'm making progress, but so far, it still looks "dirty". First, make sure there's not a left-over plastic film on top of the adhesive -- if there is, the solvent won't do anything. No film. This is genuine, uncoated, ABS. Get a folded rag pretty damp with the spirits and drape it over the printer (you may have to do this one side at the time). As you said, sometimes the goo just won't dissolve, but it will get soft, so go after it with a toothbrush (to loosen) and a nearly dry paper towel (to wipe up); it will load up with goo and need to be replaced fairly often. Good idea. I've been using paper towels, but I think I can get more force and deeper into the surface finish with a rag and brush. At this point, a toothbrush is probably too weak. A laundry brush might be better. Also, *carefully applied* heat can do wonders; many of the adhesives that are rock hard at room temperature soften up nicely after a few minutes in front of an incandescent bulb in a reflector. If you can do the heat trick first, it's often possible to pull the stickers off intact, especially if you peel slooooowly. I don't want to try heat quite yet. I'm afraid of melting the dirt into the "textured" surface. Or, I suppose you could just take it to Earl Scheib 8^} Too late. They closed up in 2010. http://www.earlscheib.com This is more interesting: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/ http://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/2009-02-12-de-yellowing%20recipe.htm I've been experimenting with small plastic parts and getting mixed results. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#12
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On 15 Mar 2012 14:15:13 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
wrote: Should take less than one can of spray paint -- choose your favorite color at an auto supply store... Jonesy Great idea. Too bad the paint probably won't stick to the remaining goo on the plastic. I didn't bother to take a photo before I started, but here's the eBay page: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130659281942 See the 4 photos furthur down the page. The top cover looked "dirty" in the photo, which I presumed would be easy to clean. I didn't realize it was sticky goo residue, impervious to various mild chemicals. What's not obvious from the photo is that the entire top, and both sides were coated with the thin layer of the same sticky goo. It's far worse than it looks in the photos. There were tiny bits of bumper sticker material left attached to the sticky goo, which is a clue as to what happened. On the good side, the price is right, it prints cleanly, is in quite good condition inside, has done well at 160,000 page, included an apparently good Jetdirect card, and included a "Bar Codes and More" ROM. Now, if I can only get it to look nice. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#13
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On Mar 15, 8:44*am, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I didn't bother to take a photo before I started, but here's the eBay page: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130659281942 See the 4 photos furthur down the page. *The top cover looked "dirty" in the photo, which I presumed would be easy to clean. *I didn't realize it was sticky goo residue, impervious to various mild chemicals. *What's not obvious from the photo is that the entire top, and both sides were coated with the thin layer of the same sticky goo. It's far worse than it looks in the photos. *There were tiny bits of bumper sticker material left attached to the sticky goo, which is a clue as to what happened. On the good side, the price is right, it prints cleanly, is in quite good condition inside, has done well at 160,000 page, included an apparently good Jetdirect card, and included a "Bar Codes and More" ROM. *Now, if I can only get it to look nice. Try advertising for a completely cashed-in model, and take the shell. Or you might find one on the side of the road. Much to my annoyance, no one sells plastic lampshades for torchieres. Years of incandescent lightbulb heat caused ours to crack and chip. Searching for a replacement went nowhere. I finally bought a bowl from a restaurant supply store and drilled a hole in the bottom. But then, on our Sunday morning latte walk, I found an entire torchiere on the side of the road. I quickly unscrewed the shade and took it home. It was proof the the Lord smiled upon out Sunday morning ritual. |
#14
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I don't remember everything from the original post. Did you try MEK?
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#15
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 09:52:09 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote: I don't remember everything from the original post. Did you try MEK? No, and I won't try it. MEK eats most plastics including ABS. MEK and acetone are sold as "plastic glue" which works by liquifying the plastic. I don't want to try stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvents. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#16
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I don't remember everything from the original post. Did you try MEK?
No, and I won't try it. MEK eats most plastics including ABS. MEK and acetone are sold as "plastic glue" which works by liquifying the plastic. I don't want to try stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvents. You're probably right, but... You can always test it on the inside. |
#17
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![]() Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:21:13 -0700, isw wrote: Or, I suppose you could just take it to Earl Scheib 8^} Too late. They closed up in 2010. http://www.earlscheib.com Then go to MAACO, or use a rattlecan. ![]() -- You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense. |
#18
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Jeff Liebermann wrote in
: On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 00:05:25 -0400, Phil Hobbs wrote: Can you get it apart far enough to put the panels through the dishwasher a few times? Cheers Phil Hobbs Yes, but I'm not sure a dishwasher is such a great idea. The ABS plastic will probably melt in the dishwasher. I also tried hot water and laundry detergent, without much luck. when you wash electronic stuff in the auto dishwasher(ADW),you must turn off the drying heat. remove the items and dry them outside the ADW. -- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com |
#19
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When you wash electronic stuff in a dishwasher,
you must turn off the drying heat. True, but... Just running cold water through the machine warms it, possibly to the point where it can melt plastic. I learned this 50 years ago, when GE supplied a clear plastic top to demo its "portable" dishwashers. You were warned not to run the demo more than one cycle without letting the water cool down. |
#20
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![]() Phil Hobbs wrote: Can you get it apart far enough to put the panels through the dishwasher a few times? The glue could gum up the pump and filter. I'd stick to hand washing, maybe with Soft Scrub or other liquid abrasive. -- Reply in group, but if emailing add one more zero, and remove the last word. |
#21
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On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? How about sandblasting the offending remnants? There are moderately inexpensive kits for craft/hobby glass etching that used "canned air" and also the only slightly more expensive Paasche "air eraser" kit. It's not going to be fast (the active spot is roughly 0804-sized) and if the plastic has already been softened by solvents you might just end up with dirtier plastic. One (among many) vendors at http://www.micromark.com/paasche-air...-set,9117.html Looks like Harbor Freight has a knock-off (surprise!). Video over at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtBaG58P5gc -- Rich Webb Norfolk, VA |
#22
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Something just crossed my mind... Is it possible that the adhesives in the
stickers attacked the ABS? That might explain why Goo-Gone doesn't work. |
#23
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On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? Paintball goo yields to boiling water from a kettle. |
#24
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:05:10 -0400, Rich Webb
wrote: How about sandblasting the offending remnants? That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle. There are moderately inexpensive kits for craft/hobby glass etching that used "canned air" and also the only slightly more expensive Paasche "air eraser" kit. Well, I have a Paasche air brush. Looks exactly like mine, except it has a sand bin attached. I really don't want to run sand or glass beads through the tiny nozzle. It also seems like it would take several hours to do the job and probably won't remove the rubber goo. My guess(tm) is that it will simply mix some sand into the rubber surface goo, without actually removing anything. It's not going to be fast (the active spot is roughly 0804-sized) and if the plastic has already been softened by solvents you might just end up with dirtier plastic. Yep. One (among many) vendors at http://www.micromark.com/paasche-air...-set,9117.html Looks like Harbor Freight has a knock-off (surprise!). Video over at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtBaG58P5gc -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#25
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 18:44:25 +0000 (UTC), Wond
wrote: Paintball goo yields to boiling water from a kettle. That's because most of the paintball goo is fish oil, glycerine, and wax, all of which will melt nicely at fairly low temperatures. The stuff I'm dealing with is probably a permanent pressure sensitive adhesive, possibly self vulcanizing rubber plus an accelerator, which is why it seems to be insoluble. Breaking cross link vulcanization bonds is not easy. It's much like trying to remove RTV with solvents, which won't work. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#26
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In article ,
Jeff Liebermann wrote: How about sandblasting the offending remnants? That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle. Could you take it to a commercial blaster? Any of several techniques might work: bead blasting, bicarbonate blasting, CO2 pellet blasting. These ought not to leave a residue, and I'd think that bead blasting could reproduce a consistent surface texture across the exterior. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
#27
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 11:46:03 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:05:10 -0400, Rich Webb wrote: How about sandblasting the offending remnants? That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle. There are moderately inexpensive kits for craft/hobby glass etching that used "canned air" and also the only slightly more expensive Paasche "air eraser" kit. Well, I have a Paasche air brush. Looks exactly like mine, except it has a sand bin attached. I really don't want to run sand or glass beads through the tiny nozzle. Good grief, no indeed! The air eraser is airbrush-like in its operation but the nozzle has a carbide throat and a larger opening. It also seems like it would take several hours to do the job and probably won't remove the rubber goo. My guess(tm) is that it will simply mix some sand into the rubber surface goo, without actually removing anything. Hmmmm... maybe use some freeze-it spray to harden the goo? It's not going to be fast (the active spot is roughly 0804-sized) and if the plastic has already been softened by solvents you might just end up with dirtier plastic. Yep. If the adhesive has chemically bonded to the underlying plastic, your only option may be to just prime / sand / prime / repaint. There are crafty tricks with sponges (black anti-static foam may be just right ;-) to get a textured surface. -- Rich Webb Norfolk, VA |
#28
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:44:09 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On 15 Mar 2012 14:15:13 GMT, Allodoxaphobia wrote: Should take less than one can of spray paint -- choose your favorite color at an auto supply store... Great idea. Too bad the paint probably won't stick to the remaining goo on the plastic. I didn't bother to take a photo before I started, but here's the eBay page: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130659281942 See the 4 photos furthur down the page. The top cover looked "dirty" in the photo, which I presumed would be easy to clean. I didn't realize it was sticky goo residue, impervious to various mild chemicals. What's not obvious from the photo is that the entire top, and both sides were coated with the thin layer of the same sticky goo. It's far worse than it looks in the photos. There were tiny bits of bumper sticker material left attached to the sticky goo, which is a clue as to what happened. On the good side, the price is right, it prints cleanly, is in quite good condition inside, has done well at 160,000 page, included an apparently good Jetdirect card, and included a "Bar Codes and More" ROM. Now, if I can only get it to look nice. Well, then ... chuckle ... get a handful of bumper stickers that appeal to _you_ and slap'em on. :-) Jonesy |
#29
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On Mar 15, 3:55*pm, Allodoxaphobia
wrote: On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:44:09 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On the good side, the price is right, it prints cleanly, is in quite good condition inside, has done well at 160,000 page, included an apparently good Jetdirect card, and included a "Bar Codes and More" ROM. *Now, if I can only get it to look nice. Well, then ... chuckle ... get a handful of bumper stickers that appeal to _you_ and slap'em on. * *:-) Contact paper. I bet they still make fake woodgrain. |
#30
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In article ],
isw wrote: In article , Jeff Liebermann wrote: I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? I've had pretty good success with mineral spirits, but sometimes it takes a while. First, make sure there's not a left-over plastic film on top of the adhesive -- if there is, the solvent won't do anything. Get a folded rag pretty damp with the spirits and drape it over the printer (you may have to do this one side at the time). As you said, sometimes the goo just won't dissolve, but it will get soft, so go after it with a toothbrush (to loosen) and a nearly dry paper towel (to wipe up); it will load up with goo and need to be replaced fairly often. My suggestion: take off the case parts, drape with paper towels or rags and drizzle with soybean oil. Let soak for a while (a couple of hours, depending on how stiff the glue is). Wipe off the softened gunk. Then wash the parts with dish soap. Repeat... Yea, we eat the stuff. Mark Zenier Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com) |
#31
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On Mar 14, 9:07*pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. *I soon discovered why it was so cheap. *A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. *Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. *Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. *All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. *I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? -- # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060 # 831-336-2558 #http://802.11junk.com* * * * * * * #http://www.LearnByDestroying.com* * * * * * * AE6KS I would put money on using naptha, it doesn't seem to affect most plastics and dissolves almost all sticky ceMent residues. I USE IT FOR EVERYTHING. |
#32
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On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo more visible. I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of destroying the ABS plastic. Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and gum? It's probably residue from a sticker that they put on demo units in the retail stores. The sticker lists the features of the printer, and maybe the price. I have a Laserjet 8100 in the office that has leftovers from the demo sticker that I have not been able to remove for years. The coverage isn't nearly as great as that on your printer, and it's out of the way, so nobody cares. Over the years, the glue seemed to dry out and is now almost a powder, but even the usual solvents won't break it. There are a few deep scratches from someone trying to scrape the residue off. Since this is a REPAIR group, you could actually replace the plastic exterior pieces. You can find a comprehensive selection at PARTSNOW.COM. I have ordered many internal parts and some cosmetic pieces from them over the years. Thanks. Remove the BALONEY from my email address. ----------------------------------------------------- Matthew Fries Minneapolis, MN USA "Quit eating all my *STUFF*!" - The Tick |
#33
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:03:44 -0500, Matthew Fries
wrote: It's probably residue from a sticker that they put on demo units in the retail stores. Nope. This printer has printed 160,000 pages. That must have been a really long term demo. Judging by what little was left of the actual label, it was probably a vinyl bumper sticker or multiple smaller stickers. The sticker lists the features of the printer, and maybe the price. I have a Laserjet 8100 in the office that has leftovers from the demo sticker that I have not been able to remove for years. The coverage isn't nearly as great as that on your printer, and it's out of the way, so nobody cares. I've seen those on inkjets, laptops, and desktops. The stickers are little better than graffiti. Many stickers seem to use some form of "permanent" glue. Over the years, the glue seemed to dry out and is now almost a powder, but even the usual solvents won't break it. There are a few deep scratches from someone trying to scrape the residue off. I've also seen the same thing with some labels. The glue turns to dust and the label falls off. However, the residue left on the printer is difficult or impossible to remove. Since this is a REPAIR group, you could actually replace the plastic exterior pieces. You can find a comprehensive selection at PARTSNOW.COM. I have ordered many internal parts and some cosmetic pieces from them over the years. I buy most of my printer parts either on eBay or from Printerworks. In this case, the top cover is $33. http://www.printerworks.com/Catalogs/HP-LaserJet-2300/105_2300TopCover.html Seems expensive, but I may do that if I can't get the crud off. I didn't work on the printer today as I was doing service calls. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#34
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On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:03:21 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: I would put money on using naptha, it doesn't seem to affect most plastics and dissolves almost all sticky ceMent residues. I USE IT FOR EVERYTHING. That's Coleman camp fuel or white gas. Possibly a bad idea for ABS. Chemical Compatibility Database http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance Select "ABS plastic" in the left column. Select "Naptha" in the right column. Click on "See Results" The results say that it's a bad idea. Another ABS chemical compatibility chart at: http://www.k-mac-plastics.net/data%20sheets/abs_chemical_resistance.htm says that naptha is ok when cool (20C), but will severely attack ABS when hot (60C). -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#36
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On Mar 15, 11:38*pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:03:21 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: I would put money on using naptha, it doesn't seem to affect most plastics and dissolves almost all sticky ceMent residues. *I USE IT FOR EVERYTHING. That's Coleman camp fuel or white gas. *Possibly a bad idea for ABS. Chemical Compatibility Database http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance * Select "ABS plastic" in the left column. * Select "Naptha" in the right column. * Click on "See Results" The results say that it's a bad idea. Another ABS chemical compatibility chart at: http://www.k-mac-plastics.net/data%20sheets/abs_chemical_resistance.htm says that naptha is ok when cool (20C), but will severely attack ABS when hot (60C). -- Jeff Liebermann * * 150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558 isn't naptha lighter fluid from a smoke shop? |
#37
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After reading this thread, I'm inclined to feel that nothing can be done.
Specifically, the adhesives have so deeply attacked and/or bonded with the styrene component of the ABS, that Nothing Can Be Done. You can get a 4M cheap. Mine is 20+ years old and still running fine. It's not as fast as newer machines, but the quality is impeccable. You should see the way it prints the eensy-teensy text on Disney discount coupons. And it's PostScript, which means that finding a usable driver is no problem. |
#38
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On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 06:41:06 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote: After reading this thread, I'm inclined to feel that nothing can be done. Specifically, the adhesives have so deeply attacked and/or bonded with the styrene component of the ABS, that Nothing Can Be Done. Ye of little faith. I think it's cleanable because I've cleaned similar sticky rubberish goo from plastic in the past, without much difficulty. The difference here is that the plastic surface is textured, and seems to be trapping the goo. Cleaning a textured surface is a problem that I see all too often. However, my quest for the ultimate solvent may be futile. What I probably should be looking for is a better technique or tools. I'll be investigating brushes, rags, microfiber, mild heating, and such today. I think the various label remover products are adequate. You can get a 4M cheap. Mine is 20+ years old and still running fine. It's not as fast as newer machines, but the quality is impeccable. You should see the way it prints the eensy-teensy text on Disney discount coupons. And it's PostScript, which means that finding a usable driver is no problem. The LJ 4m is ancient. It's basically a repackaged LaserJet 4. 8ppm is much too slow for my customers. The 2300 is 24 ppm and starts printing about 8 seconds from standby. The 2300d will print on both sides of the page at 1200dpi (with the PCL6 driver). It also does Postscript 3. However, these are not why my customers buy my rebuilt 2200 and 2300 series printers. It's because in standby, they don't make any fan noise, which means they can be left powered on at home. If I arrived with an LJ 4m, my typical customer would question my sanity. http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/pscmisc/vac/us/product_pdfs/238800.pdf Typical cost for a 2300d from eBay is $100. I replace all the rubber parts for $15. A clone 10A 6000 page toner cart is about $25. Jetdirect network card is $10-$50 depending on type. 128MB additional RAM for $10. Total expense is usually about $150. I usually spend about an hour cleaning it. Time to retire the LJ 4m. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#39
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Jeff Liebermann wrote in
: On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 12:47:18 -0700, (Dave Platt) wrote: In article , Jeff Liebermann wrote: How about sandblasting the offending remnants? That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle. Could you take it to a commercial blaster? Any of several techniques might work: bead blasting, bicarbonate blasting, CO2 pellet blasting. These ought not to leave a residue, and I'd think that bead blasting could reproduce a consistent surface texture across the exterior. I could do that, but I would need to blast all the covers in order to make the surface finish match. There are also some smooth surfaces involved, which would need to be masked. I don't know the price of sandblasting, but I suspect it might approach the cost of replacement. I have a small sandblaster kit and air compressor. I've done plenty of metal parts, but have never tried plastic. I'll see if I can find some to sacrifice. Unfortunately, all I have handy is some fairly coarse hard sand. what may happen is that the goo may act as a stencil,and you end up etching all around the goo. I wonder if you used the mineral spirits or GooGone with a plastic fiber pad or "pot scrubber" and some elbow grease,if that would take the goo off. or maybe it has to be "hot tanked"; soaked in a tank of heated solvent.Maybe the stuff auto shops use to clean auto parts..... -- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com |
#40
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On Mar 16, 8:41*am, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 06:41:06 -0700, "William Sommerwerck" wrote: After reading this thread, I'm inclined to feel that nothing can be done.. Specifically, the adhesives have so deeply attacked and/or bonded with the styrene component of the ABS, that Nothing Can Be Done. Ye of little faith. *I think it's cleanable because I've cleaned similar sticky rubberish goo from plastic in the past, without much difficulty. *The difference here is that the plastic surface is textured, and seems to be trapping the goo. *Cleaning a textured surface is a problem that I see all too often. *However, my quest for the ultimate solvent may be futile. *What I probably should be looking for is a better technique or tools. *I'll be investigating brushes, rags, microfiber, mild heating, and such today. *I think the various label remover products are adequate. You can get a 4M cheap. Mine is 20+ years old and still running fine. It's not as fast as newer machines, but the quality is impeccable. You should see the way it prints the eensy-teensy text on Disney discount coupons. And it's PostScript, which means that finding a usable driver is no problem. The LJ 4m is ancient. *It's basically a repackaged LaserJet 4. *8ppm is much too slow for my customers. *The 2300 is 24 ppm and starts printing about 8 seconds from standby. *The 2300d will print on both sides of the page at 1200dpi (with the PCL6 driver). *It also does Postscript 3. *However, these are not why my customers buy my rebuilt 2200 and 2300 series printers. *It's because in standby, they don't make any fan noise, which means they can be left powered on at home. If I arrived with an LJ 4m, my typical customer would question my sanity. http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/pscmisc/vac/us/product_pdfs/238800.pdf Typical cost for a 2300d from eBay is $100. *I replace all the rubber parts for $15. *A clone 10A 6000 page toner cart is about $25. Jetdirect network card is $10-$50 depending on type. *128MB additional RAM for $10. *Total expense is usually about $150. *I usually spend about an hour cleaning it. *Time to retire the LJ 4m. -- Jeff Liebermann * * 150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558 stick with the STIFF toothbrushes, they have rounded bristles and don't seem to scratch much |
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