Have a Battery Technology, Inc. AC Adapter for an IBM Laptop
IB-PS365, 55W 16V 3.4A

The thing has gone intermittent. By slightly flexing the case, comes
back on, so idea is to disassemble, solder traces and be up and
running instantly.

but...how to disassemble?

Anybody done that?

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...

Have a Battery Technology, Inc. AC Adapter for an IBM Laptop
IB-PS365, 55W 16V 3.4A

The thing has gone intermittent. By slightly flexing the case, comes
back on, so idea is to disassemble, solder traces and be up and
running instantly.

but...how to disassemble?

Anybody done that?


You could try dropping on a hard floor, or using a hammer, pound on the
corners abit all around wallwart where the seam is.
I know this sounds crude, but often it works. Another way is to use a
dremel mototool with a cutoff disk and cut along the seam all around the
wallwart.

good luck,

Shaun

As someone else suggested, an intermittent power supply is almost always
caused by a defective cable. Regardless, now that it's open, you can touch
up all the solder joints, and put an ohmeter on the power cord.

On May 29, 3:02*pm, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
As someone else suggested, an intermittent power supply is almost always
caused by a defective cable. Regardless, now that it's open, you can touch
up all the solder joints, and put an ohmeter on the power cord.

I was actually suspecting the PCB connector for the AC mains cable.
All that flexing into the right angle mount with NO strain relief has
got to take its toll. Seemed likely there would be cracks around the
mounting/electrical pins.

I hate tearing into the fish paper/copper foil wrap. Some of the best
workmanship in shielding I've seen although it's incredible the shield
is connected via a 3/4 inch long 22 Awg solid wire to a point on the
PCB where the PC cable connector is mounted. However, sometimes NOT
doing something right can suffice, especially on small packages.

On Sun, 29 May 2011 20:21:40 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

First is to remove any sticky labels that may cover a securing screw.

Good idea. However, I have yet to see such a screw on any laptop
power supply that I've torn apart. There usually isn't any room for
the required plastic pylon inside. There is also some safety rule
(double insulated???) that requires that the unit NOT create a shock
hazard by allowing the user to open the case. That's why they glue
the case shut, and not just snap or screw it together.

Refining point 1 , place in vice with the weakest point in the line , where
one of the cables exits.

I beg to differ. The ends are usually not very strong or well
secured. Compressing the plastic case at the ends is likely to break
the plastic, and still leave the long glue joints along the sides
intact. Best to break the long side joints first, and the ends will
just fall apart.

A guitar plectrum is best to start with as a pry-bar as minimum damage,
progress to screwdrivers etc later.

Yes, that should work. However, at $3/ea, I'm not thrilled.

I think the favored tool is a "spudger" from telco tools and the
favored tool for prying apart Apple products. Whatever works that
won't shred the insulation and shielding inside. Avoid anything with
sharp edges, such as a screwdriver.




--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sun, 29 May 2011 13:30:46 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

The unit used to fail with the LED simply
going OFF. If ON, unit was ok. Could be a lot between the AC mains
and that LED, though.

The LED is across the output. If the cable or connector is shorted,
then the light will go out. Look for a short at the plug end of the
cable or loose shield wires on the output cable.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 29 May 2011 20:21:40 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

First is to remove any sticky labels that may cover a securing screw.

Good idea. However, I have yet to see such a screw on any laptop
power supply that I've torn apart. There usually isn't any room for
the required plastic pylon inside. There is also some safety rule
(double insulated???) that requires that the unit NOT create a shock
hazard by allowing the user to open the case. That's why they glue
the case shut, and not just snap or screw it together.

Refining point 1 , place in vice with the weakest point in the line ,
where
one of the cables exits.

I beg to differ. The ends are usually not very strong or well
secured. Compressing the plastic case at the ends is likely to break
the plastic, and still leave the long glue joints along the sides
intact. Best to break the long side joints first, and the ends will
just fall apart.

A guitar plectrum is best to start with as a pry-bar as minimum damage,
progress to screwdrivers etc later.

Yes, that should work. However, at $3/ea, I'm not thrilled.

I think the favored tool is a "spudger" from telco tools and the
favored tool for prying apart Apple products. Whatever works that
won't shred the insulation and shielding inside. Avoid anything with
sharp edges, such as a screwdriver.




--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


Just this last Saturday a Boss PSC 2306 9V, 1A smps "wall wart" psu.
Under the label, a recessed 3mm a/f screw. After that squashed across
cable-weakened short side end in a vice , then other short end, then long
sides and plectrum.

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...
As someone else suggested, an intermittent power supply is almost always
caused by a defective cable. Regardless, now that it's open, you can touch
up all the solder joints, and put an ohmeter on the power cord.


A trick I often use on suspect leads is to use a SLA battery and a H4 bulb
with one or both filaments, often an intermittent lead fails to show up on
an ohmeter or continuity tester, the over 4A (or 8A) will make most
intermittent breaks permanent.

Needless to say the OP would be well advised to unsolder the lead from the
PCB before applying this proceedure.

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 29 May 2011 20:21:40 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

First is to remove any sticky labels that may cover a securing screw.

Good idea. However, I have yet to see such a screw on any laptop
power supply that I've torn apart. There usually isn't any room for
the required plastic pylon inside. There is also some safety rule
(double insulated???) that requires that the unit NOT create a shock
hazard by allowing the user to open the case.

They often pour potting resin in the screw recess to hide the screw head and
make it nigh impossible to get at.

On May 29, 7:12*pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 29 May 2011 13:30:46 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy

wrote:
The unit used to fail with the LED simply
going OFF. If ON, unit was ok. *Could be a lot between the AC mains
and that LED, though.

The LED is across the output. *If the cable or connector is shorted,
then the light will go out. *Look for a short at the plug end of the
cable or loose shield wires on the output cable.

--
Jeff Liebermann * *
150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558

The case did NOT seem glued, simply very strong plastic detent
fingers.

Changed out the AC cord, made NO difference. Same symptoms. Used the
bottom half of the case simply to hold the assembly and reduce shock
potential - seems unlikely with the shield attached to the PC
connector shield. Then pressed around on the top and found that
pressing near the LED [away from the AC mains port and closer to the
PC port] would cause the LED to momentarily come on, but not stay on.
Have no idea what's flexing to cause this. But need to remove the
fish paper/shield assembly to get good access.

Have to say that this packaging is a marvel to behold. It looks like
the parts were poured into the volume, completely filling it up.

The fish paper, between the copper shield and the PCB seemed to be
glued with a simple 'tacky' type glue and separated easily with the
same 'knife' edge tool, without damaging/distorting its shape.

more later

On May 29, 10:47*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Have a Battery Technology, Inc. AC Adapter for an IBM Laptop
IB-PS365, 55W 16V 3.4A

The thing has gone intermittent. *By slightly flexing the case, comes
back on, so idea is to disassemble, solder traces and be up and
running instantly.

but...how to disassemble?

Anybody done that?

Found it! Cold solder joint in the middle of the PCB to a large gauge
through hole component. Don't know to what on the other side, but the
wire looked 20 - 22 Awg size and had a neat fuzzy line around it to
the cone of solder, which 'looked' good. Evidently over time the gap
widened until intermittent and then open.

Culmination:
Case SNAPS apart.
Fish paper/copper shield easily opened.
Cold solder joint in the middle of the PCB.

All back together now and working!

Thank you everyone for suggestions.