Anyone know?
No underlying idents , only 3 years old at most

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better

"Nutcase Kook"

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag
logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better


** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and EL34s
you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


...... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...

"Nutcase Kook"

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag
logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume
No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better


** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and EL34s
you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


..... Phil


I've been buying and fitting JJ Tesla valves exclusively for the last 5
years or so. I bought a whole bunch straight from the factory (EL34, EL84,
6L6, ECC83 - not tried any JJ6550's, usually get Svetlanas as required).

I can't remember seeing any amps come back with a failed JJ Tube I fitted.
When I do see an amp back I recheck the bias current and they are always
still closely matched.
They are priced well towards the cheaper end of the quality tube market.


(Last Orange amp I had, a Rockverb 50, I replaced 4 x 6V6 with JJ's, haven't
seen it since)


Gareth.

Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...

"Nutcase Kook"

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag
logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume
No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better


** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and
EL34s
you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


..... Phil


I've been buying and fitting JJ Tesla valves exclusively for the last 5
years or so. I bought a whole bunch straight from the factory (EL34,
EL84,
6L6, ECC83 - not tried any JJ6550's, usually get Svetlanas as required).

I can't remember seeing any amps come back with a failed JJ Tube I fitted.
When I do see an amp back I recheck the bias current and they are always
still closely matched.
They are priced well towards the cheaper end of the quality tube market.


(Last Orange amp I had, a Rockverb 50, I replaced 4 x 6V6 with JJ's,
haven't
seen it since)


Gareth.




I take it from that , that the Orange amp reputation as valve-eaters is due
to whether Chinese or whatever Orange re-badged valves they use, for
reliability replace with good named brand ones at the first opportunity.

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...

"Nutcase Kook"

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag
logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume
No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better


** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and
EL34s
you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


..... Phil


I've been buying and fitting JJ Tesla valves exclusively for the last 5
years or so. I bought a whole bunch straight from the factory (EL34,
EL84,
6L6, ECC83 - not tried any JJ6550's, usually get Svetlanas as required).

I can't remember seeing any amps come back with a failed JJ Tube I
fitted.
When I do see an amp back I recheck the bias current and they are always
still closely matched.
They are priced well towards the cheaper end of the quality tube market.


(Last Orange amp I had, a Rockverb 50, I replaced 4 x 6V6 with JJ's,
haven't
seen it since)


Gareth.




I take it from that , that the Orange amp reputation as valve-eaters is
due
to whether Chinese or whatever Orange re-badged valves they use, for
reliability replace with good named brand ones at the first opportunity.




Dunno about the Orange valve eaters, but cheap junk tubes break like any
other cheap junk.
I don't fit cheap junk cos I don't want the amps coming back, having failed
halfway though a gig, and being accused of fitting cheap junk!


Gareth.

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...

"Nutcase Kook"

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag
logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume
No-Name
Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better


** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and EL34s
you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


..... Phil




Here's an interesting thing - I was told by Marshall that quite a few years
ago they tried using JJ Tesla EL34's on their production line. They say
that they had so many problems with returned amps that they reverted back to
their Svetlanas.
(These are the JJ tubes that have an additional small logo to current
production)

I suspect JJ sorted out what might have been a problem in the early days,
just a guess really as I have no data, unless of course there was some other
business type of dispute.



Gareth.

On Fri, 27 May 2011 17:53:39 +1000, Phil Allison wrote:

"Nutcase Kook"

From pcb Enumber, the boards are made in Hong Kong, despite Union flag
logo
on the overlay and "Made in England" on the chassis. I will assume
No-Name Chinese valves unless anyone knows any better


** Orange Amps do not use or recommend any particular brand of valve.

But you would be a fool to use anything less that the best EL84s and
EL34s you can get - cos those amps are sooooooo tough on output
valves.

Svetlana and JJ are the ones to look at with EH down the list somewhat.


..... Phil

I've heard that EH stands up well. I'm not a Svetlana fan. Have had
limited success with JJs. Best for my concern would be some NOS Mullards
or RCA.



--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

.. Best for my concern would be some NOS Mullards
or RCA.




Yeah well, we could all say that.

Doesn't help.

While at it with Orange amps. Nasty metallic buzz like mains powered shaver/
engraver/ poodle clippers. Varying level of noise with amount of load.
Mains Tx central bar of an outer "E" lamination loose. Simple enough to deal
with once you know the cause. Remove the matching "I" to drible lacquer both
sides. The wiring bobbin is loose within the iron laminations block, so
plenty of space to allow a lamination to break away. Will also push some
silicone rubber sheet in there to avoid re-occurance hopefully.

On May 29, 8:11*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
While at it with Orange amps. Nasty metallic buzz like mains powered shaver/
engraver/ poodle clippers. Varying level of noise with amount of *load.
Mains Tx central bar of an outer "E" lamination loose. Simple enough to deal
with once you know the cause. Remove the matching "I" to drible lacquer both
sides. The wiring bobbin is loose within the iron laminations block, so
plenty of space to allow a lamination to break away. Will also push some
silicone rubber sheet in there to avoid re-occurance hopefully.

They sound like absolute garbage. Were Orange amps ever any good?

spamtrap1888 wrote in message
...
On May 29, 8:11 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
While at it with Orange amps. Nasty metallic buzz like mains powered
shaver/
engraver/ poodle clippers. Varying level of noise with amount of load.
Mains Tx central bar of an outer "E" lamination loose. Simple enough to
deal
with once you know the cause. Remove the matching "I" to drible lacquer
both
sides. The wiring bobbin is loose within the iron laminations block, so
plenty of space to allow a lamination to break away. Will also push some
silicone rubber sheet in there to avoid re-occurance hopefully.

They sound like absolute garbage. Were Orange amps ever any good?

+++++

They must be esceedingly good because they are exceedingly expensive.
Makes you wonder what the difference is , in Sterling terms, the money going
out to China for making the things compared to the UK selling price.

spamtrap1888 wrote in message
...
On May 29, 8:11 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
While at it with Orange amps. Nasty metallic buzz like mains powered
shaver/
engraver/ poodle clippers. Varying level of noise with amount of load.
Mains Tx central bar of an outer "E" lamination loose. Simple enough to
deal
with once you know the cause. Remove the matching "I" to drible lacquer
both
sides. The wiring bobbin is loose within the iron laminations block, so
plenty of space to allow a lamination to break away. Will also push some
silicone rubber sheet in there to avoid re-occurance hopefully.

They sound like absolute garbage. Were Orange amps ever any good?

++++

The other notorious Orange problem - intermittant loss of one channel,
whether by sw on front or footswitch.
Although they use latching 1/4 inch spade connectors, just because they will
not dislodge, does not necessarily mean they retain electrical connection.

The owner had lived with the "shaver" noise for months,but had gradually got
worse. Masked by the demand effect, no music - light buzz, high music
volume - loud buzz.
Absolutely quiet transformer now. Just hope the other end "E" does not play
up as that would require removing the Tx and its wiring from the chassis. It
is now tight up against the bobbin now so not too likely .