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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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help ID this LCD Tv!
A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and
the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU so I opened it up. Here are the pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymwnqvkh http://www.mediafire.com/?qnnb96eqf8oyfpn http://www.mediafire.com/?bo4euo5dbm9ika1 http://www.mediafire.com/?py62n3kngj1we1d http://www.mediafire.com/?x977hv9i3xzy06g the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are needed. cheers, B |
#2
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help ID this LCD Tv!
On Nov 6, 2:37*pm, b wrote:
A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU so I opened it up. Here are the pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymw...977hv9i3xzy06g the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are needed. cheers, B update, a bit of continuity testing gave me the polatity of the plug, so I hit it with 12v and it worked. Would still like to know the maker though so I can programme a universal remote. -B |
#3
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help ID this LCD Tv!
On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:01:55 -0700, b wrote:
On Nov 6, 2:37Â*pm, b wrote: A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU so I opened it up. Here are the pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymw...ediafire.com/? qnnb96eqf8oyfpnhttp://www.mediafire.com/?bo4euo5dbm9ika1http:// http://www.mediafire.com/?py62n3kngj...ediafire.com/? x977hv9i3xzy06g the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are needed. cheers, B update, a bit of continuity testing gave me the polatity of the plug, so I hit it with 12v and it worked. Would still like to know the maker though so I can programme a universal remote. -B Most universals have a mode where you can click through every code known to the universal. When you click through them and finally the TV comes on you hit the jackpot. I had to do this once with a TV that was not listed in the code book but did follow the codes of another brand. -- Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse |
#4
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help ID this LCD Tv!
On Nov 6, 1:13*pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:01:55 -0700, b wrote: On Nov 6, 2:37*pm, b wrote: A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU so I opened it up. Here are the pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymw...ediafire.com/? qnnb96eqf8oyfpnhttp://www.mediafire.com/?bo4euo5dbm9ika1http://www.mediafire.com/?py62n3kngj1we1dhttp://www.mediafire.com/? x977hv9i3xzy06g the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are needed. cheers, B update, a bit of continuity testing gave me the polatity of the plug, so I hit it with 12v and it worked. Would still like to know the maker though so I can programme a universal remote. -B Most universals have a mode where you can click through every code known to the universal. When you click through them and finally the TV comes on you hit the jackpot. I had to do this once with a TV that was not listed in the code book but did follow the codes of another brand. -- Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse Most a hold "Code Search" stays lit, press TV (blinks), press "power" until it turns-off (may be 200X), press the "Enter" key. Good idea to find the "Brand" though! If Funai it might be Silvania, Sansui, or Emerson. (not sure about anymore) |
#5
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help ID this LCD Tv!
On Sat, 6 Nov 2010 18:13:28 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
wrote: On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:01:55 -0700, b wrote: On Nov 6, 2:37*pm, b wrote: A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU so I opened it up. Here are the pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymw...ediafire.com/? qnnb96eqf8oyfpnhttp://www.mediafire.com/?bo4euo5dbm9ika1http:// http://www.mediafire.com/?py62n3kngj...ediafire.com/? x977hv9i3xzy06g the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are needed. cheers, B update, a bit of continuity testing gave me the polatity of the plug, so I hit it with 12v and it worked. Would still like to know the maker though so I can programme a universal remote. -B Most universals have a mode where you can click through every code known to the universal. When you click through them and finally the TV comes on you hit the jackpot. I had to do this once with a TV that was not listed in the code book but did follow the codes of another brand. Of course if you buy the old ones, like I do, they may not even have the codes for newer devices. If I bought a brand new one, would it have codes for digital-to-analog set-top boxes? |
#6
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help ID this LCD Tv!
mm wrote: Meat Plow wrote: ?Most universals have a mode where you can click through every code known ?to the universal. When you click through them and finally the TV comes on ?you hit the jackpot. I had to do this once with a TV that was not listed ?in the code book but did follow the codes of another brand. Of course if you buy the old ones, like I do, they may not even have the codes for newer devices. If I bought a brand new one, would it have codes for digital-to-analog set-top boxes? I haven't seen any that do, so far. -- Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is enough left over to pay them. |
#7
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help ID this LCD Tv!
On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 20:22:40 -0400, mm wrote:
On Sat, 6 Nov 2010 18:13:28 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow wrote: On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:01:55 -0700, b wrote: On Nov 6, 2:37Â*pm, b wrote: A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU so I opened it up. Here are the pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymw...ediafire.com/? qnnb96eqf8oyfpnhttp://www.mediafire.com/?bo4euo5dbm9ika1http:// http://www.mediafire.com/?py62n3kngj...ediafire.com/? x977hv9i3xzy06g the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are needed. cheers, B update, a bit of continuity testing gave me the polatity of the plug, so I hit it with 12v and it worked. Would still like to know the maker though so I can programme a universal remote. -B Most universals have a mode where you can click through every code known to the universal. When you click through them and finally the TV comes on you hit the jackpot. I had to do this once with a TV that was not listed in the code book but did follow the codes of another brand. Of course if you buy the old ones, like I do, they may not even have the codes for newer devices. If I bought a brand new one, would it have codes for digital-to-analog set-top boxes? The last multi-function remote I took possession of was the one that came with my Cisco 8640 HDVC DVR. It does in fact have codes for AtoD converters. I'm 99.9% certain the newer multi-function remotes especially those that are not your $5.00 Walmart special but something in the $30 dollar and up bracket would yield the results you desire. -- Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse |
#8
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help ID this LCD Tv!
On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:05:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
wrote: On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 20:22:40 -0400, mm wrote: On Sat, 6 Nov 2010 18:13:28 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow wrote: On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:01:55 -0700, b wrote: On Nov 6, 2:37*pm, b wrote: A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU so I opened it up. Here are the pics: http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymw...ediafire.com/? qnnb96eqf8oyfpnhttp://www.mediafire.com/?bo4euo5dbm9ika1http:// http://www.mediafire.com/?py62n3kngj...ediafire.com/? x977hv9i3xzy06g the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are needed. cheers, B update, a bit of continuity testing gave me the polatity of the plug, so I hit it with 12v and it worked. Would still like to know the maker though so I can programme a universal remote. -B Most universals have a mode where you can click through every code known to the universal. When you click through them and finally the TV comes on you hit the jackpot. I had to do this once with a TV that was not listed in the code book but did follow the codes of another brand. Of course if you buy the old ones, like I do, they may not even have the codes for newer devices. If I bought a brand new one, would it have codes for digital-to-analog set-top boxes? The last multi-function remote I took possession of was the one that came with my Cisco 8640 HDVC DVR. It does in fact have codes for AtoD converters. I'm 99.9% certain the newer multi-function remotes especially those that are not your $5.00 Walmart special but something in the $30 dollar and up bracket would yield the results you desire. Thanks. I"ll keep my eyes open. The original remotes still work and I haven't lost them yet, but it's good to know. Thanks, Michael, also. Actually and interestingly, my 80 dollar DISH TV AtoD converter, the most expensive I came across, hasn't worked well from the start. The Green power light on the box goes on without my doing anything, but the box isn't working after all. And I can't turn it "off" with the remote control, and there are no buttons on the box itself. I can unplug it, but when I plug it back in, the green light is on, but after 10 or 15 seconds it goes off. I'm used to this now, but still. There are no garage door openers around here, or remotes shining in my window. Only once every month or so, and I guess it's less often now. |
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