Apologies for being slightly OT, but you people know a lot.

I have a Hamilton Beach Brew Station Deluxe coffee machine. Great
machine, but after 2 years heavy use, it has started to leak. The
coffee pot is made with two pieces - bottom plate was inserted.

There in lies the problem. Multiple heating and cooling cycles have
cracked open this bottom seal causing the coffe to leak down inside,
then out onto the counter top.

What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve the
requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed by humans?

Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? Doubt it, but need
confirmation.

How about acetone to rejoin the plastic?

Anybody know the plastic used and the best way to reseal?

On Apr 10, 1:23*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
Apologies for being slightly OT, but you people know a lot.

I have a Hamilton Beach Brew Station Deluxe coffee machine. *Great
machine, but after 2 years heavy use, it has started to leak. *The
coffee pot is made with two pieces - bottom plate was inserted.

There in lies the problem. *Multiple heating and cooling cycles have
cracked open this bottom seal causing the coffe to leak down inside,
then out onto the counter top.

What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve the
requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed by humans?

Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? *Doubt it, but need
confirmation.

How about acetone to rejoin the plastic?

Anybody know the plastic used and the best way to reseal?

Buy a new pot on ebay or from the manufacturer.

What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve
the requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed
by humans?

Silicone adhesives, as far as I know, are not particularly toxic in the
first place, and I doubt a properly cured bond would leach.


Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? Doubt it, but need
confirmation.

Superglue isn't stable. It can be weakened simply by contact with water.


I'm inclined to agree with the poster who suggested buying a new pot.

On Apr 11, 4:13*am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve
the requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed
by humans?

Silicone adhesives, as far as I know, are not particularly toxic in the
first place, and I doubt a properly cured bond would leach.

Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? Doubt it, but need
confirmation.

Superglue isn't stable. It can be weakened simply by contact with water.

I'm inclined to agree with the poster who suggested buying a new pot.

not an option

On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 10:45:28 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Apr 11, 4:13*am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve
the requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed
by humans?

Silicone adhesives, as far as I know, are not particularly toxic in the
first place, and I doubt a properly cured bond would leach.

Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? Doubt it, but need
confirmation.

Superglue isn't stable. It can be weakened simply by contact with water.

I'm inclined to agree with the poster who suggested buying a new pot.

not an option

Short answer: GFGI

Medium answer: A search of "food grade adhesive" turns up some likely
candidates. This looks promising:
http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/su5005-food-grade-silicone-hitemp-103oz-cartridge-p-2284.html

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

In article ,
Rich Webb wrote:

On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 10:45:28 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Apr 11, 4:13*am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve
the requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed
by humans?

Silicone adhesives, as far as I know, are not particularly toxic in the
first place, and I doubt a properly cured bond would leach.

Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? Doubt it, but need
confirmation.

Superglue isn't stable. It can be weakened simply by contact with water.

I'm inclined to agree with the poster who suggested buying a new pot.

not an option

Short answer: GFGI

Go to a pet store and get a tube of aquarium seal. It's a silicone
adhesive (which of itself is totally nontoxic), plus whatever is used
for a catalyst won't harm fish, even after very long exposure in
non-changing water. If it won't hurt them, it sure won't hurt you.

Clean all the surfaces with something like a "green scrubber", and apply
the silicone as a decent-thickness fillet. You can smooth the stuff with
a finger wetted with mineral spirits (which will evaporate by the time
the silicone is cured).

Isaac

On Apr 11, 2:39*pm, Rich Webb wrote:
On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 10:45:28 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy





wrote:
On Apr 11, 4:13*am, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:
What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve
the requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed
by humans?

Silicone adhesives, as far as I know, are not particularly toxic in the
first place, and I doubt a properly cured bond would leach.

Can food be placed in contact if I use superglue? Doubt it, but need
confirmation.

Superglue isn't stable. It can be weakened simply by contact with water.

On Apr 10, 11:23*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Apologies for being slightly OT, but you people know a lot.

I have a Hamilton Beach Brew Station Deluxe coffee machine. *Great
machine, but after 2 years heavy use, it has started to leak. *The
coffee pot is made with two pieces - bottom plate was inserted.

There in lies the problem. *Multiple heating and cooling cycles have
cracked open this bottom seal causing the coffe to leak down inside,
then out onto the counter top.

What is the best way to reseal this junction, but preserve the
requirement that the liquid in contact will be consumed by humans?

This coffeemaker has a nonreplaceable 'pot' as part of its stationary
assembly.

The short answer: your crack has coffee residue inside it, only
complete
disassembly and cleaning to prep it for cementing will work. The kind
of
cement that works best, depends on the (unknown) formula of the
original
plastic. The manufacturer didn't find a reliable enough glue.

Maybe RTV silicone would work; you have to ensure it wets the plastic,
and assemble with no voids. There may be some tiny amount of catalyst
(toxic) in the mix, but only a small amount of the 'skin' of the glue
joint will be
exposed to the liquid, so it'd be a microgram quantity... I'd rinse a
few times before using, but not worry otherwise. Heck, copper is
'toxic'
but all my piping is made of it.