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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at
about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave |
#2
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![]() "DaveC" wrote in message ... I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. http://www.restockit.com/4-Angled-Fc... 1&Bvar7=100F1 |
#3
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On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 15:31:18 -0500, "Rich." wrote:
"DaveC" wrote in message al-september.org... I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. Jeez, for $27 plus tax and shipping? Damn. For about $5 more, you can simply buy the best steel in the world. Lindstrom. If you are putting out that much already, what is adding 5% for a twofold gain in quality? If you do not want to spend that much, the cheap Xcelite, and Plato brands, etc. are the right choice, and you shouldn't spend more than $12 each for a ten pack of them. Also worth it. If you are buying the cheaper brands, you should buy at least two, if not the ten pack, because they will wear due to the softer steels used. The Swiss brand will last forever or until you break them via some form of abuse or other. |
#4
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 09:29:29 -0800, DaveC wrote:
I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave Such tools are still around, but I have never seen a flush cutter that had a half inch long cutting jaw. Ever. Try hunting up Lindstrom on ebay if you want the absolute best Swiss steel hand tools. Not cheap. Alternatively, Xcelite dies still exist and they as well as a few other inhabit the bottom of the market, from a quality POV. Regular flush cutters are cheap steel, don't last long, and only cost about $8 each, so they get bought by the case in boxes of ten. The angled pair are usually single sales items though. The bottom end has them for about $5 more each, and the top end has them at a similar price to all the others because they are all expensive at that level. They are also worth it. If you want a pair that will last decades, and is fully serviceable, and uses the hardest steel and tightest tolerances, Lindstrom shares no equal. Well worth the typical $35 - $55 a pair. |
#5
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 09:29:29 -0800, DaveC wrote:
I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave Lindstrom Precision seems to have some choices: http://www.restockit.com/4-Angled-Fc... 1&Bvar7=100F1 perhaps model 7280 or model 7285 Expensive: I found US$73 for 7280, US$110 for 7285, http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Coop...%20Catalog.pdf 449 (54 of 122) Xcelite Diagonal End Cutter Pliers Angled Diagonal End Cutter, GA54J and GA5A4JV (packaging difference only) maybe US$23 450 (55 of 122) has Angled Head Cutter EGA54J, Transverse End Cutter EC54{J,JV} - may not be shape you want. Maybe $US36 Angled Tip Cutter LC665{J,JV} maybe US$27 All cost estimates from www.froogle.com; all price estimates are probably exclusive of handling, shipping, taxes, etc. |
#6
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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One big difference in these types of tools, is whether they are made from
sheet steel stampings, or forged steel. The forged steel versions typically last for decades, but cost more. I have some miniature forged steel flush cutting pliers sold by Snap-On which have handles that are nearly 90 degrees to the cutting edges. The cutting jaws are fairly small, and project outward to one side. The reach of the cutting edges allows them to reach under obstructions by about 1/4". Some other forged steel flush cutting models I have were made by Hunter. Several are the typical cutters which have the cutting edges in a straight line to the handles, but a couple pair have the cutting edges at nearly 45 degrees, which make it possible to reach slightly under certain obstructions. I think that flush cutting is always better than the common beveled cutting edges. Cutting requires less effort, and there's less distortion of the material that's just "pinched off" by common beveled jaws. -- Cheers, WB .............. "DaveC" wrote in message ... I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave |
#7
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On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:09:30 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
wrote: One big difference in these types of tools, is whether they are made from sheet steel stampings, or forged steel. The forged steel versions typically last for decades, but cost more. The lindstroms are not forged. They are fully machined from ball bearing steel. |
#8
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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![]() AwlSome Auger wrote: On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:09:30 -0500, "Wild_Bill" wrote: One big difference in these types of tools, is whether they are made from sheet steel stampings, or forged steel. The forged steel versions typically last for decades, but cost more. The lindstroms are not forged. They are fully machined from ball bearing steel. Just like the steel plate in your head? -- Greed is the root of all eBay. |
#9
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On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 15:57:04 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: AwlSome Auger wrote: On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:09:30 -0500, "Wild_Bill" wrote: One big difference in these types of tools, is whether they are made from sheet steel stampings, or forged steel. The forged steel versions typically last for decades, but cost more. The lindstroms are not forged. They are fully machined from ball bearing steel. Just like the steel plate in your head? Yeah, it is so steely that it stole away any hope you ever had of being considered an intelligent individual in this group. |
#10
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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![]() AwlSome Auger wrote: On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 15:57:04 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: AwlSome Auger wrote: On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:09:30 -0500, "Wild_Bill" wrote: One big difference in these types of tools, is whether they are made from sheet steel stampings, or forged steel. The forged steel versions typically last for decades, but cost more. The lindstroms are not forged. They are fully machined from ball bearing steel. Just like the steel plate in your head? Yeah, it is so steely that it stole away any hope you ever had of being considered an intelligent individual in this group. Yawn. Another lame dimbulb attempt at a putdown. THE DIMBULB SCORECARD Abbey Somebody AnimalMagic Archimedes' Lever AtTheEndofMyRope AwlSome Auger Bart! BigBalls BiggestBallsOfAll@thebigbarattheendoftheuniverse. org BillyPilgrim Bungalow Bill Capt. Cave Man CellShocked cellshocked@thecellvalueattheendofthespreadsheet. org ChairmanOfTheBored Chieftain of the Carpet Crawlers Corbomite Carrie DarkMatter DarkSucker Do I really need to say? Dorothy with the Red Shoes on Dr. Heywood R. Floyd FatBytestard FunkyPunk FieldEffectTrollsistor FunkyPunk FieldEffectTrollsistor George Orr GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement g Hattori Hanzo Herbert John \Jackie\" Gleason" HiggsField IAmTheSlime TheSlimeFromYourVideo@oozingacrossyourlivingroomf loor.org ItsASecretDummy Jupiter Jaq Kai LargeMarge life imitates life lurch MadManMoon MakeNoAttemptToAdjustYourSet MeowSayTongue Mr.Eko Mr. Haney Mycelium Mycelium Neanderthal OutsideObserver Stand And Pieyed Piper g Phat Bytestard RoyLFuchs scorpius scorpius@thewormholethatemptiesontheothersideofth euniverse.org SkyPilot SomeKindOfWonderful rg Son of a Sea Cook SoothSayer Spurious Response StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt Sum Ting Wong SumTingWong@thebarattheendoftheVenusianLightnigBo lt.org Sum Ting Wong SumTingWong@thebarattheendoftheVenusianLightnigBo ltmonolith.org SuspendedInGaffa The Great Attractor SuperM@ssiveBlackHoleAtTheCenterOfTheMilkyWayGala xy.org TheGlimmerMan TheJoker LeonardooftheLarcenousLaugh@thebarattheendoftheun iverse.org The Keeper of the Key to The Locks TheKraken The Last Mimsy TheQuickBrownFox The Loner TralfamadoranJetPilot UltimatePatriot UpGrade UpYerNose ValleyGirl VioletaPachydermata WallyWallWhackr wallywallwhackr@thematrixattheendofthemushroomste m.org 100WattDarkSucker 100WattDarkSucker@thebigbarattheendoftheuniverse. org -- Greed is the root of all eBay. |
#11
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AwlSome Auger wrote:
AA The lindstroms are not forged. They are AA fully machined from ball bearing steel. That's a strange way to pretend you have balls. Did anybody else get the feeling that "life imitates life" is somehow getting a kickback from lindstrom? LOL |
#12
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On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:53:56 -0800 (PST), Greegor
wrote: AwlSome Auger wrote: AA The lindstroms are not forged. They are AA fully machined from ball bearing steel. That's a strange way to pretend you have balls. Did anybody else get the feeling that "life imitates life" is somehow getting a kickback from lindstrom? Nah, no one would actually pay someone to be AlwaysWrong. |
#13
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On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:53:56 -0800 (PST), Greegor
wrote: AwlSome Auger wrote: AA The lindstroms are not forged. They are AA fully machined from ball bearing steel. That's a strange way to pretend you have balls. Grow the **** up, retard boy. Did anybody else get the feeling that "life imitates life" is somehow getting a kickback from lindstrom? LOL Dude, you are a ****ing idiot. They are not forged. One does not have to get a kickback to simply iterate facts. You could use a bath, however, ****tard. |
#14
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On 2/10/2010 12:29 PM, DaveC wrote:
I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave I picked up a barely used set of Lindstrom (Sweden)Model Rx 8142. I am not sure if the angle is more than 30 degrees, but very well balanced and cushioned. I have forbidden the family to use them! My other cutters look like they have been used for cutting iron nails! -- Joe Leikhim K4SAT "The RFI-EMI-GUY"© "Use only Genuine Interocitor Parts" Tom Servo ;-P |
#15
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On 2/14/2010 8:14 PM, RFI-EMI-GUY wrote:
On 2/10/2010 12:29 PM, DaveC wrote: I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave I picked up a barely used set of Lindstrom (Sweden)Model Rx 8142. I am not sure if the angle is more than 30 degrees, but very well balanced and cushioned. I have forbidden the family to use them! My other cutters look like they have been used for cutting iron nails! I guess the $6 at Skycrafters was well spent given the furor being raised over US industry buying these Commie Rolls Royce tools versus buying puke smelling Xcelite junk. Nothin' like the smell of Xcelite in the morning to go with your coffee! -- Joe Leikhim K4SAT "The RFI-EMI-GUY"© "Use only Genuine Interocitor Parts" Tom Servo ;-P |
#16
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On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 20:14:38 -0500, RFI-EMI-GUY
wrote: On 2/10/2010 12:29 PM, DaveC wrote: I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave I picked up a barely used set of Lindstrom (Sweden)Model Rx 8142. I am not sure if the angle is more than 30 degrees, but very well balanced and cushioned. I have forbidden the family to use them! My other cutters look like they have been used for cutting iron nails! Does that say something about you, or are you saying that the other members of your family were never properly educated on tool care? :-) |
#17
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On 2/14/2010 11:46 PM, life imitates life wrote:
On Sun, 14 Feb 2010 20:14:38 -0500, wrote: On 2/10/2010 12:29 PM, DaveC wrote: I used to own a pair of flush cutters where the jaws and the handles met at about a 45-degree angle. Made for a nice tool for getting in between components when you needed to nip something off flush with the PCB. I think they were Xcelite. I can't find anything like those Xcelites anymore. Everything is either straight (no angle between the jaws and handles) or maybe a slight angle. Anyone know of a good cutter that has a 45-degree angle? Flush-cut desirable but not critical. A 1/2" (12 mm) jaw opening would be nice, though. Thanks, Dave I picked up a barely used set of Lindstrom (Sweden)Model Rx 8142. I am not sure if the angle is more than 30 degrees, but very well balanced and cushioned. I have forbidden the family to use them! My other cutters look like they have been used for cutting iron nails! Does that say something about you, or are you saying that the other members of your family were never properly educated on tool care? :-) I think the concept of returning tools to the toolbox and using proper tools for the job is lost on certain other members of the family. I have given up training them. -- Joe Leikhim K4SAT "The RFI-EMI-GUY"© "Use only Genuine Interocitor Parts" Tom Servo ;-P |
#18
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In article om,
RFI-EMI-GUY wrote: I picked up a barely used set of Lindstrom (Sweden)Model Rx 8142. I am not sure if the angle is more than 30 degrees, but very well balanced and cushioned. I have forbidden the family to use them! My other cutters look like they have been used for cutting iron nails! Cutting nails shouldn't worry a decent pair of cutters. But obviously smaller ones could bend if trying to cut a large nail. Small electronic cutters should only be used for that purpose. Larger electrician's type will survive lots of abuse if of good quality. -- *The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#19
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On Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:02:09 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article om, RFI-EMI-GUY wrote: I picked up a barely used set of Lindstrom (Sweden)Model Rx 8142. I am not sure if the angle is more than 30 degrees, but very well balanced and cushioned. I have forbidden the family to use them! My other cutters look like they have been used for cutting iron nails! Cutting nails shouldn't worry a decent pair of cutters. Nice try, troll. But obviously smaller ones could bend if trying to cut a large nail. Small electronic cutters should only be used for that purpose. Larger electrician's type will survive lots of abuse if of good quality. There are no cutters that should be used on ANY ****ing steel wire, much less nails. Your ****ing name fits, Plowtard. |
#20
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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In article ,
life imitates life wrote: Cutting nails shouldn't worry a decent pair of cutters. Nice try, troll. But obviously smaller ones could bend if trying to cut a large nail. Small electronic cutters should only be used for that purpose. Larger electrician's type will survive lots of abuse if of good quality. There are no cutters that should be used on ANY ****ing steel wire, much less nails. If like you, they're bought from the pound shop, yes. A test for *any* decent cutter is piano wire. Properly hardened jaws won't be damaged by this. Your ****ing name fits, Plowtard. Very witty. From one who hides behind a pseudonym. -- weapon of math disruption* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#21
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On Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:16:28 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: A test for *any* decent cutter is piano wire. Properly hardened jaws won't be damaged by this. You are an idiot, and a troll. Piano wire is cut with a heavy shear, not a nip cutter. There are no nip style cutters made meant for steel with the exception of bolt cutters and they are a completely different animal. That is why a block shear cutter is used. |
#22
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I'm not playing this game, but you're entirely incorrect that there are no
hand tool cutters that are capable of, or intended to withstand the cutting forces of steel. Cotter pins, safety lockwire, steel fence wire and various other steel wire products are routinely cut with hand tool diagonal cutters or wire cutters that are not specifically made for copper or aluminum only. Many quality wiring pliers/crimpers/strippers include screw cutters, that cut steel screws without any damage to the tool. The cutters don't have to be big Channelock, Klein or other industrial duty models. I have miniature cutters that I've cut steel wire with for many years without damage, and have also been used to cut small springs. The cutting edges are unharmed. My Channelock side cutters and several other wire cutters I own have cut lots of nails, been used to pull nails and large steel staples, even at the tips of the cutting edges, without damage to the tools. I don't try to cut drywall screws with them, or twist drills, or endmills. They still cut stranded or solid copper wire and cables just fine, and nylon cord or steel coat hanger wire or any other materials that I need them to cut, essentially like they were still new. The only attention that these cutters and pliers have needed in many years of use, is an occasional 1 or 2 drops of oil at the hinge, and proper storage. There's no need, or point for any typical hostile anarchist replies. I don't play these games. -- Cheers, WB .............. There are no cutters that should be used on ANY ****ing steel wire, much less nails. |
#23
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In article ,
Wild_Bill wrote: My Channelock side cutters and several other wire cutters I own have cut lots of nails, been used to pull nails and large steel staples, even at the tips of the cutting edges, without damage to the tools. I don't try to cut drywall screws with them, or twist drills, or endmills. They still cut stranded or solid copper wire and cables just fine, and nylon cord or steel coat hanger wire or any other materials that I need them to cut, essentially like they were still new. The only attention that these cutters and pliers have needed in many years of use, is an occasional 1 or 2 drops of oil at the hinge, and proper storage. There's no need, or point for any typical hostile anarchist replies. I don't play these games. Shear type cutters would have to be vastly heavier to cut wire etc - they have a tendency to spring open when doing this. Bolt cutters are simply a heavy duty version of side cutters. -- *People want trepanners like they want a hole in the head* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#24
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On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 08:13:30 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
wrote: Cotter pins, safety lockwire, steel fence wire and various other steel wire products are routinely cut with hand tool diagonal cutters or wire cutters that are not specifically made for copper or aluminum only. Many quality wiring pliers/crimpers/strippers include screw cutters, that cut steel screws without any damage to the tool. I have a pair of twister pliers for lock wire. They are not actually meant to be use to CUT the wire either, even though they have side cutters incorporated into them. Any monkey knows how to flex fracture wire that uses a medium that work hardens. That is the right way to "cut" lock wire. In fact, one is supposed to use the side cutter to simply score the wire a bit, and then the number of flexes is reduced to just a few. |
#25
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Wild_Bill wrote:
I'm not playing this game, but you're entirely incorrect that there are no hand tool cutters that are capable of, or intended to withstand the cutting forces of steel. Cotter pins, safety lockwire, steel fence wire and various other steel wire products are routinely cut with hand tool diagonal cutters or wire cutters that are not specifically made for copper or aluminum only. Many quality wiring pliers/crimpers/strippers include screw cutters, that cut steel screws without any damage to the tool. The cutters don't have to be big Channelock, Klein or other industrial duty models. I have miniature cutters that I've cut steel wire with for many years without damage, and have also been used to cut small springs. The cutting edges are unharmed. My Channelock side cutters and several other wire cutters I own have cut lots of nails, been used to pull nails and large steel staples, even at the tips of the cutting edges, without damage to the tools. I don't try to cut drywall screws with them, or twist drills, or endmills. They still cut stranded or solid copper wire and cables just fine, and nylon cord or steel coat hanger wire or any other materials that I need them to cut, essentially like they were still new. The only attention that these cutters and pliers have needed in many years of use, is an occasional 1 or 2 drops of oil at the hinge, and proper storage. right, I have here a pair of wirecutters made by Belzer (Titan2000) which I bought in '86. Sill perfect with a small spring that keeps the cut wires from flying into your eyes. ciao Ban |
#26
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![]() "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article om, RFI-EMI-GUY wrote: I picked up a barely used set of Lindstrom (Sweden)Model Rx 8142. I am not sure if the angle is more than 30 degrees, but very well balanced and cushioned. I have forbidden the family to use them! My other cutters look like they have been used for cutting iron nails! Cutting nails shouldn't worry a decent pair of cutters. But obviously smaller ones could bend if trying to cut a large nail. Small electronic cutters should only be used for that purpose. Larger electrician's type will survive lots of abuse if of good quality. A small pair of bolt cutters would be better for nails. Especially cut nails, made for masonry work. -- Greed is the root of all eBay. |
#27
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On Feb 16, 7:13 am, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
WB [...] There's no need, or point for any typical WB hostile anarchist replies. I don't play these games. That's an interesting take on this "life imitates life" nym shifter. It would explain the "Always Wrong" moniker though! I wonder if in real life he's really the angry radicalized sociopathic misfit he appears to be on usenet... |
#28
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=wire+nipper
"wire nipper" just gives me millions of hits. Adding "45 degree" is what I need. And already did. Hence my question here. I have a newer pair of Xcelite nippers. If the above link does you no good I'll grab them when I get back to the shop and post the part number. Are they 45-degree type? Yes, I'd appreciate a pn. Thanks! |
#29
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On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 14:24:22 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 10:37:15 -0800, DaveC wrote: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=wire+nipper "wire nipper" just gives me millions of hits. Adding "45 degree" is what I need. And already did. Hence my question here. Most nippers are 45, diag cutters are a totally different animal. Not true. "nippers" are various, and there "norm" varies from USER to USER, and no, the industry does not "usually use 45 degree" as was inferred by your remark. Most were.... AT the ******** you were at at the time. Most at two of the places I have been were the other variety. You probably knew that was an incorrect statement, the moment you hit the period key. I have a newer pair of Xcelite nippers. If the above link does you no good I'll grab them when I get back to the shop and post the part number. Are they 45-degree type? Yes, I'd appreciate a pn. Thanks! Xcelite 170M :http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/xc...3900?ref=gbase The Lindstroms are worth the extra outlay if a long term, personal tool is desired. For a production level, multi-user tool, the lower quality steel, shorter life span brands are cheaper and are the better value for such a setting. It just depends on who the tool is for, how well they take care of their tools, and the term you wish the tool to last for. |
#30
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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Fred Abse wrote:
Golden rule: Never, under any circumstances, lend cutters to *anyone*. Never let them out of your sight / control. That in my humble opionion is just plain silly. If you refuse to lend people tools when they ask, they wait until you are not looking and borrow them anyway. The best thing to do, IMHO is to buy several sets of medium grade tools, i.e. cheap but not the best. Still capable of doing the job, but nothing you would worry about if it came back unusable. Then you leave one set around for people to borrow and lend them out agressively. The good tools you keep locked up and never even let them know you have them. :-) I used to have a guy who worked for me part time who was constantly having his tools stolen. From screwdrivers to floor pullers. I just bought a bunch of screwdrivers for him and on his days off, I went around and collected them from where he left them. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation. i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia. |
#31
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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Fred Abse wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:49:03 +0000, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: That in my humble opionion is just plain silly. If you refuse to lend people tools when they ask, they wait until you are not looking and borrow them anyway. They get fired! That only works if: 1. You are high enough up the food chain to do anything about it. 2. Have less invested in them than the tools. Maybe a small company with a few employees of no particular skills, but in the real world? Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation. i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia. |
#32
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:04:03 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote: Fred Abse wrote: On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:49:03 +0000, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: That in my humble opionion is just plain silly. If you refuse to lend people tools when they ask, they wait until you are not looking and borrow them anyway. They get fired! That only works if: 1. You are high enough up the food chain to do anything about it. I can relate to that. I arrived at work one day, and went upstairs down at the other end of the building. The new tech we hired started the previous week. As I came to the end of the building my lab is at, and looked out over the balcony, I saw him down at my bench, digging in my personal tools/parts cabinets for whatever he felt like "he might need". They did not do anything about it. Maybe because I was so mad about the fact that such a low life ****tard had just been hired by our company and was being considered a capable employee. I think character flaws like that are grounds for instantaneous firing. Not if it was a true colleague, looking for something he needed. This was a new asshole, trying to get at my things, thinking he was getting in before everyone else. I only wish that the huge scare I filled him with when I hollered at him when it happened had given him a heart attack. He is ****ing lucky I did not load up one of our BIG HV caps and dump the ****er in his ass while saying, "Now go near my **** again, ****er, and I'll dump one of these into your chest!" I hate that the ****tards in the world cause me to compromise my character just to put the stupid *******s in their place. I hate ****ers that make me hate. I am so glad that the scrutiny used where I work now, means that I can trust every soul there implicitly. I could be a ****-up and they would keep me because I am part of the family now. But I am not a ****-up. That asshole digging in my parts and tools was. |
#33
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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Fred Abse wrote:
Not *that* small. Many longtime employees with irreplaceable skills who know better than to borrow tools without asking. They have their own tools. If they want more, we buy them. They wouldn't lend me theirs, not that I'd ask. It's called discipline and commitment. It's also a cultural thing. Here there is a much more socialist attitude where the company owns the tools, and not the employees. Everything is shared among the workers. ****es (angers for you UK types) the hell out of me, but it's the way everyone thinks. People would even unlock my desk to get to my tools. Note that until the mid 1990's no one was paid enough money to own their own tools, and to this day very few are. I recently resarched this because someone asked me about starting business here that they had in the US. They have a tool franchise and drive around in a van selling tools to craftsmen, mechanincs, etc. It does not translate well, the workers can't afford the tools, and the employers would rather buy a high end chinese tool than a high end US/EU made tool because it is likely to get broken, lost or stolen. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation. i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia. |
#34
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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In article ,
Meat Plow wrote: The Lindstroms are worth the extra outlay if a long term, personal tool is desired. For a production level, multi-user tool, the lower quality steel, shorter life span brands are cheaper and are the better value for such a setting. It just depends on who the tool is for, how well they take care of their tools, and the term you wish the tool to last for. Never heard of Lindstrom Fairly well known as the 'Rolls Royce' of cutters etc. But debatable if they are worth the cost. If you're only doing the things those cutters were designed for, like snipping copper leads, cheaper ones treated as disposable can be fine. And use a 'disposed' of pair for the things that could damage the good ones. But I do have some Lindstrom tools. -- *I'm planning to be spontaneous tomorrow * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#35
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:23:51 -0500, Meat Plow . wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 16:39:44 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: In article , Meat Plow wrote: The Lindstroms are worth the extra outlay if a long term, personal tool is desired. For a production level, multi-user tool, the lower quality steel, shorter life span brands are cheaper and are the better value for such a setting. It just depends on who the tool is for, how well they take care of their tools, and the term you wish the tool to last for. Never heard of Lindstrom Fairly well known as the 'Rolls Royce' of cutters etc. But debatable if they are worth the cost. If you're only doing the things those cutters were designed for, like snipping copper leads, cheaper ones treated as disposable can be fine. And use a 'disposed' of pair for the things that could damage the good ones. But I do have some Lindstrom tools. I don't doubt they are the cat's meow. I use a pair of side cuts for anything less larger than 20. My nippers were always for nipping leads from caps, diodes, etc.... The shearing edges are just too soft. Not on Lindstrom steel, it isn't. They use ball bearing steel. The "shearing edges" are flawless. BTW, side cutters perform NO shearing action whatsoever. They are not shears. They are snips. Blades and seats strike into each other. On a shear, the blades cross each other. |
#36
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Posted to alt.engineering.electrical,sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design,sci.electronics.repair
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On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 10:35:22 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
That's nice YMMV How retarded of you. Most of the industry does NOT use oblique cutters. Pretty simple ****. Run your plow over it and see what springs up. I have a newer pair of Xcelite nippers. If the above link does you no good I'll grab them when I get back to the shop and post the part number. Are they 45-degree type? Yes, I'd appreciate a pn. Thanks! Xcelite 170M :http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/xc...3900?ref=gbase The Lindstroms are worth the extra outlay if a long term, personal tool is desired. For a production level, multi-user tool, the lower quality steel, shorter life span brands are cheaper and are the better value for such a setting. It just depends on who the tool is for, how well they take care of their tools, and the term you wish the tool to last for. Never heard of Lindstrom How uninformed of you. |
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