I am trying to troubleshoot a high-pressure sodium vapor lamp which does not
light, in spite of there being 120V AC available in the socket and a new
bulb installed. Posting a pic of the ignitor to A.B.S.E showing the two
components with which I am least familiar, and which I suspect may be at
fault. Please, any input or advice is solicited. I can replace the lamp
easily enough, but would rather fix it if I can just for the satisfaction of
doing so. I am seeking info on the semiconductor (NTE6419) device which
appears to be open, and the cylindericle device to which it is attached,
which measures 1.08 H with my LCR meter, and totally open between the two
end-pins with my DMM set to Ohms. If you have anything to offer, I ask for
it.

Many thanks,

Dave

On Feb 2, 5:13*pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 15:15:56 -0600, "Dave" wrote:





I am trying to troubleshoot a high-pressure sodium vapor lamp which does not
light, in spite of there being 120V AC available in the socket and a new
bulb installed. *Posting a pic of the ignitor to A.B.S.E showing the two
components with which I am least familiar, and which I suspect may be at
fault. *Please, any input or advice is solicited. *I can replace the lamp
easily enough, but would rather fix it if I can just for the satisfaction of
doing so. *I am seeking info on the semiconductor (NTE6419) device which
appears to be open, and the cylindericle device to which it is attached,
which measures 1.08 H with my LCR meter, and totally open between the two
end-pins with my DMM set to Ohms. *If you have anything to offer, I ask for
it.

Many thanks,

Dave

The "ignitor" is a ballast.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



High pressure sodium lamps require a starting voltage of around 200
volt to ignite the lamp and then the ballast limits the current to the
proper operating current for the lamp. If there is only 120 volts
on the socket the starter circuit may be defective .

See this for more details .

http://www.acuitybrandslighting.com/...ets/TD-110.pdf

"sparky" wrote in message
...
On Feb 2, 5:13 pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 15:15:56 -0600, "Dave" wrote:





I am trying to troubleshoot a high-pressure sodium vapor lamp which does
not
light, in spite of there being 120V AC available in the socket and a new
bulb installed. Posting a pic of the ignitor to A.B.S.E showing the two
components with which I am least familiar, and which I suspect may be at
fault. Please, any input or advice is solicited. I can replace the lamp
easily enough, but would rather fix it if I can just for the satisfaction
of
doing so. I am seeking info on the semiconductor (NTE6419) device which
appears to be open, and the cylindericle device to which it is attached,
which measures 1.08 H with my LCR meter, and totally open between the two
end-pins with my DMM set to Ohms. If you have anything to offer, I ask
for
it.

Many thanks,

Dave

The "ignitor" is a ballast.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



High pressure sodium lamps require a starting voltage of around 200
volt to ignite the lamp and then the ballast limits the current to the
proper operating current for the lamp. If there is only 120 volts
on the socket the starter circuit may be defective .

See this for more details .

http://www.acuitybrandslighting.com/...ets/TD-110.pdf



Hey Sparky, thanks for that link. And yes, the starter was indeed
defective. Thought it was going to be the SIDAC bi-directional thyristor,
but it turned out to be the choke behind that device. Looks like (approx)
100uH, and I stuck a 100uH choke from Rat Shack in its place to test, and
the lamp seems to work fine with that. Only thing now is to find one that
is coated like the old one to be fire-proof, or figure out something to coat
the new new choke with for that purpose. Any ideas there are quite welcome.

Thanks again for the help. It feels good to know I am on the right track.

Dave

Meat Plow wrote in message ...
On Fri, 5 Feb 2010 05:49:23 -0600, "Dave" wrote:


"sparky" wrote in message
...
On Feb 2, 5:13 pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Tue, 2 Feb 2010 15:15:56 -0600, "Dave" wrote:





I am trying to troubleshoot a high-pressure sodium vapor lamp which
does
not
light, in spite of there being 120V AC available in the socket and a
new
bulb installed. Posting a pic of the ignitor to A.B.S.E showing the two
components with which I am least familiar, and which I suspect may be
at
fault. Please, any input or advice is solicited. I can replace the lamp
easily enough, but would rather fix it if I can just for the
satisfaction
of
doing so. I am seeking info on the semiconductor (NTE6419) device which
appears to be open, and the cylindericle device to which it is
attached,
which measures 1.08 H with my LCR meter, and totally open between the
two
end-pins with my DMM set to Ohms. If you have anything to offer, I ask
for
it.

Many thanks,

Dave

The "ignitor" is a ballast.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



High pressure sodium lamps require a starting voltage of around 200
volt to ignite the lamp and then the ballast limits the current to the
proper operating current for the lamp. If there is only 120 volts
on the socket the starter circuit may be defective .

See this for more details .

http://www.acuitybrandslighting.com/...ets/TD-110.pdf



Hey Sparky, thanks for that link. And yes, the starter was indeed
defective. Thought it was going to be the SIDAC bi-directional thyristor,
but it turned out to be the choke behind that device. Looks like (approx)
100uH, and I stuck a 100uH choke from Rat Shack in its place to test, and
the lamp seems to work fine with that. Only thing now is to find one that
is coated like the old one to be fire-proof, or figure out something to
coat
the new new choke with for that purpose. Any ideas there are quite
welcome.

Thanks again for the help. It feels good to know I am on the right track.

Dave


I've repaired my sodium fixture 4 times in the past 20 years. It was
made to be in the weather but seemed to only last a few years
initially and then would fail ever 4 years or so. Maybe it was just a
bad design I don't know. I replaced the entire fixture 5 years ago
and so far its performed flawlessly.

Hey Meat Plow,

This fixture has lasted at least 15 years, and it was the choke in the
starter that ultimately failed. If she can get another 5 or 10 years out of
it I'll be happy. And I was worried about the replacement choke
overheating, but that doesn't seem to be an issue. Especially since the
SIDAC next to it will fail before it gets hot enough to be a hazard (thus no
need for a thermal fuse, like I was thinking about.) I still wish I knew of
something fairly heat-proof to spray on it, but it doesn't look like such
will actually be needed. If it gets hot, the SIDAC will fail, interrupting
current to the device in question. (shaking head) I love it when something
just works out the way you need it to. Doesn't happen very often.

Dave