I have a Goodmans TV model LD3761HDFVT. Increasingly, I can not run
it. Blue LED on the front of the TV lights up, but very poorly lit. TV
does not work then - does not respond to the TV remote. I can only
turn it off using the button on the side panel TV. When the TV is
working properly, the blue LED is lit by an intense light. What could
be causing this and whether it pays to fix this, or is it better to
buy a new TV.

qpanas wrote:

I have a Goodmans TV model LD3761HDFVT. Increasingly, I can not run
it. Blue LED on the front of the TV lights up, but very poorly lit. TV
does not work then - does not respond to the TV remote. I can only
turn it off using the button on the side panel TV. When the TV is
working properly, the blue LED is lit by an intense light. What could
be causing this and whether it pays to fix this, or is it better to
buy a new TV.
Maybe you have a bad remote?

Many times the Ir LED goes bad in the remote, even though it may
still check ok as a diode.


Using a light meter that covers Ir. is a handy tool for this. I just
happen to have a cheap, and I mean cheap, DMM that has a light meter in
it along with a sound meter, moister meter etc.. this works well!.

"qpanas" wrote in message
...
I have a Goodmans TV model LD3761HDFVT. Increasingly, I can not run
it. Blue LED on the front of the TV lights up, but very poorly lit. TV
does not work then - does not respond to the TV remote. I can only
turn it off using the button on the side panel TV. When the TV is
working properly, the blue LED is lit by an intense light. What could
be causing this and whether it pays to fix this, or is it better to
buy a new TV.


If the blue LED is lighting poorly and the TV is not coming on, then the
chances are that you have a power supply problem. The most common problem is
without doubt, caps, followed by bad (lead-free) joints. Look for any
electrolytic caps near to or hidden under the heatsinks, that may have
bulging tops, or check them all with an ESR meter. If you are not
experienced dealing with switchmode power supplies, do take care, as they
are potentially lethal. Just to make sure that you understand what I am
saying, they *can* kill you ... :-(

Arfa

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

"qpanas" wrote in message
...
I have a Goodmans TV model LD3761HDFVT. Increasingly, I can not run
it. Blue LED on the front of the TV lights up, but very poorly lit. TV
does not work then - does not respond to the TV remote. I can only
turn it off using the button on the side panel TV. When the TV is
working properly, the blue LED is lit by an intense light. What could
be causing this and whether it pays to fix this, or is it better to
buy a new TV.


If the blue LED is lighting poorly and the TV is not coming on, then the
chances are that you have a power supply problem. The most common problem
is without doubt, caps, followed by bad (lead-free) joints. Look for any
electrolytic caps near to or hidden under the heatsinks, that may have
bulging tops, or check them all with an ESR meter. If you are not
experienced dealing with switchmode power supplies, do take care, as they
are potentially lethal. Just to make sure that you understand what I am
saying, they *can* kill you ... :-(

Arfa

The symptoms described certainly sound like a PSU/caps problem, just to put
the OP's mind at rest concerning the remote, the IRLED can be observed in
action with any digital camera that has an LCD panel.

An extra comment on PSU caps, not all faulty caps bulge when they fail -
some just get moderately hot. If the OP doesn't have an ESR meter the touch
test might identify a failing electrolytic. But it is important to remember
that the cans are not isolated, so don't touch the cans with the PSU
powered, and as capacitors can hold a dangerous charge, do the touch test
with one hand in pocket so a circuit through the body can't be completed.

An idea for a poor man's ESR checker, is an inverse-parallel pair of LEDs in
series with a DC blocking capacitor, the idea being that a large ripple on
an electrolytic will look like AC to the DC blocking cap and pass enough
current to light the LEDs. A series resistor of about 1k2 to limit switch on
surge is a good idea, the cap could be about 0.68uF/400V to cover most
eventualities.

Testing is a little time consuming as the PSU needs to be powered down
between each test - the tester is soldered to the print side under each
electrolytic in turn. One of the LEDs will flash once at switch on, if both
then glow there is excessive ripple on the electrolytic.

On Oct 3, 2:12*pm, qpanas wrote:
I have a Goodmans TV model LD3761HDFVT. Increasingly, I can not run
it. Blue LED on the front of the TV lights up, but very poorly lit. TV
does not work then - does not respond to the TV remote. I can only
turn it off using the button on the side panel TV. When the TV is
working properly, the blue LED is lit by an intense light. What could
be causing this and whether it pays to fix this, or is it better to
buy a new TV.

It's a firmware hiccup. Just unplug and wait 20 seconds before
plugging it in.

Sitre J. Magana wrote:
On Oct 3, 2:12 pm, qpanas wrote:
I have a Goodmans TV model LD3761HDFVT. Increasingly, I can not run
it. Blue LED on the front of the TV lights up, but very poorly lit. TV
does not work then - does not respond to the TV remote. I can only
turn it off using the button on the side panel TV. When the TV is
working properly, the blue LED is lit by an intense light. What could
be causing this and whether it pays to fix this, or is it better to
buy a new TV.

It's a firmware hiccup. Just unplug and wait 20 seconds before
plugging it in.

If you had read the previous posts in this thread you would have seen
that the symptoms are caused by faulty power supply capacitors. I
forgot, you're just another dumb spic that doesn't know how to read anyways.

Almost any video camera will be sensitive to the infrared of a remote
control. A camcorder with LCD display is most convenient since the display
is integral, so one doesn't need to set up a camera and separate monitor.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"ian field" wrote in message
...

The symptoms described certainly sound like a PSU/caps problem, just to
put the OP's mind at rest concerning the remote, the IRLED can be observed
in action with any digital camera that has an LCD panel.

An extra comment on PSU caps, not all faulty caps bulge when they fail -
some just get moderately hot. If the OP doesn't have an ESR meter the
touch test might identify a failing electrolytic. But it is important to
remember that the cans are not isolated, so don't touch the cans with the
PSU powered, and as capacitors can hold a dangerous charge, do the touch
test with one hand in pocket so a circuit through the body can't be
completed.

An idea for a poor man's ESR checker, is an inverse-parallel pair of LEDs
in series with a DC blocking capacitor, the idea being that a large ripple
on an electrolytic will look like AC to the DC blocking cap and pass
enough current to light the LEDs. A series resistor of about 1k2 to limit
switch on surge is a good idea, the cap could be about 0.68uF/400V to
cover most eventualities.

Testing is a little time consuming as the PSU needs to be powered down
between each test - the tester is soldered to the print side under each
electrolytic in turn. One of the LEDs will flash once at switch on, if
both then glow there is excessive ripple on the electrolytic.

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Almost any video camera will be sensitive to the infrared of a remote
control. A camcorder with LCD display is most convenient since the display
is integral, so one doesn't need to set up a camera and separate monitor.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


You can also use a camera phone. Just push a button on the remote while it
is pointed at the phone while previewing the camera and you should see a
white dot on the display.

"ian field" wrote in message
...

The symptoms described certainly sound like a PSU/caps problem, just to
put the OP's mind at rest concerning the remote, the IRLED can be
observed in action with any digital camera that has an LCD panel.

An extra comment on PSU caps, not all faulty caps bulge when they fail -
some just get moderately hot. If the OP doesn't have an ESR meter the
touch test might identify a failing electrolytic. But it is important to
remember that the cans are not isolated, so don't touch the cans with the
PSU powered, and as capacitors can hold a dangerous charge, do the touch
test with one hand in pocket so a circuit through the body can't be
completed.

An idea for a poor man's ESR checker, is an inverse-parallel pair of LEDs
in series with a DC blocking capacitor, the idea being that a large
ripple on an electrolytic will look like AC to the DC blocking cap and
pass enough current to light the LEDs. A series resistor of about 1k2 to
limit switch on surge is a good idea, the cap could be about 0.68uF/400V
to cover most eventualities.

Testing is a little time consuming as the PSU needs to be powered down
between each test - the tester is soldered to the print side under each
electrolytic in turn. One of the LEDs will flash once at switch on, if
both then glow there is excessive ripple on the electrolytic.




"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Almost any video camera will be sensitive to the infrared of a remote
control. A camcorder with LCD display is most convenient since the display
is integral, so one doesn't need to set up a camera and separate monitor.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


A mobile phone that everyone has in their pocket, is even more convenient
....

Arfa

Dori wrote:
Sitre J. Magana wrote:

I forgot, you're just another dumb spic that doesn't know how to read
anyways.

I forgot, you're just another dumb child beater from North Carolina.

No camera phone for me, but always have a night vision scope.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

A mobile phone that everyone has in their pocket, is even more convenient
...

Arfa