For small motors
I've determined a way of making flat or square section drive bands so know
the elongation characteristic of the band for a given cross-section , and
the unstretched length for a requiremnent, but not the required tension in
the band (originals missing) and hence calculated unstretched circumference.
Is there a table of tension v band dimensions v motor type?
eg size of motor and whether low speed ,say 3/4 inch diam pinion or high
speed and 1/4 or so pinions.
Or will I have to get inside a few cassette deck/vcr/vinyl decks , measure
and construct a table.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:

For small motors
I've determined a way of making flat or square section drive bands

I'd like to hear your methods; I recently made a flat drive band for
a Smith Corona "Data Disk" (Quickdisk) "floppy" (serial spiral reading)
drive by cutting a band taken from a 1979 vintage 5 1/4" full height
floppy to size and stitching the abutted ends with nylon thread and a
tiny needle. It works without much of a bump at the joint, but if
there are other methods that have less of a discontinuity, I'm all ears.

Michael

On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting results
with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On flat belts,
your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.

"John Keiser" wrote in message
news:yYidnTRev8b_ZyvUnZ2dnUVZ_gKWnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting results
with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On flat belts,
your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.


Likewise, similar success. A good quality cyanoacrylate glue does an
excellent job on 1.2mm square section cassette belts. As John says though,
it is necessary to get a very clean and perpendicular cut at the two faces
to be joined. Once the joint has been made, a piece of very fine wet and dry
paper can be used to remove any glue that has exuded from the joint. This
can be done with the belt stretched over your finger. If you are successful,
the joint is barely visible without magnification, and will stand a
substantial 'stretch' test

Arfa

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
news

"John Keiser" wrote in message
news:yYidnTRev8b_ZyvUnZ2dnUVZ_gKWnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting
results with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On
flat belts, your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.


Likewise, similar success. A good quality cyanoacrylate glue does an
excellent job on 1.2mm square section cassette belts. As John says though,
it is necessary to get a very clean and perpendicular cut at the two faces
to be joined. Once the joint has been made, a piece of very fine wet and
dry paper can be used to remove any glue that has exuded from the joint.
This can be done with the belt stretched over your finger. If you are
successful, the joint is barely visible without magnification, and will
stand a substantial 'stretch' test

Arfa



I remember when Superglue first came onto the market, there was a TV advert
campaign where a bloke sliced a (fairly hefty) round section rubber belt in
half, then superglued it back together. A few seconds (apparently) later he
stretched it between a pair of parallel bars (gymnastic equipment) and then
sat and bounced on it without falling onto his arse. Quite impressive, if
it wasn't faked.



Gareth.

Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
news
"John Keiser" wrote in message
news:yYidnTRev8b_ZyvUnZ2dnUVZ_gKWnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting
results with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On
flat belts, your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.

Likewise, similar success. A good quality cyanoacrylate glue does an
excellent job on 1.2mm square section cassette belts. As John says though,
it is necessary to get a very clean and perpendicular cut at the two faces
to be joined. Once the joint has been made, a piece of very fine wet and
dry paper can be used to remove any glue that has exuded from the joint.
This can be done with the belt stretched over your finger. If you are
successful, the joint is barely visible without magnification, and will
stand a substantial 'stretch' test

Arfa



I remember when Superglue first came onto the market, there was a TV advert
campaign where a bloke sliced a (fairly hefty) round section rubber belt in
half, then superglued it back together. A few seconds (apparently) later he
stretched it between a pair of parallel bars (gymnastic equipment) and then
sat and bounced on it without falling onto his arse. Quite impressive, if
it wasn't faked.

Like the guy who was 'Solvited' to a helicopter!

Ron

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 13:12:53 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
wrote:


"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
news

"John Keiser" wrote in message
news:yYidnTRev8b_ZyvUnZ2dnUVZ_gKWnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting
results with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On
flat belts, your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.


Likewise, similar success. A good quality cyanoacrylate glue does an
excellent job on 1.2mm square section cassette belts. As John says though,
it is necessary to get a very clean and perpendicular cut at the two faces
to be joined. Once the joint has been made, a piece of very fine wet and
dry paper can be used to remove any glue that has exuded from the joint.
This can be done with the belt stretched over your finger. If you are
successful, the joint is barely visible without magnification, and will
stand a substantial 'stretch' test

Arfa



I remember when Superglue first came onto the market, there was a TV advert
campaign where a bloke sliced a (fairly hefty) round section rubber belt in
half, then superglued it back together. A few seconds (apparently) later he
stretched it between a pair of parallel bars (gymnastic equipment) and then
sat and bounced on it without falling onto his arse. Quite impressive, if
it wasn't faked.



Gareth.


I have an 'O' ring kit from a top name maker. Designed to allow you to
create your own special sized O rings. The kit has a supply of rubber,
a cutter designed to cut the ends straight, a jig to hold the ends
square, and... A tube of super glue to glue the O ring together.

I thought, wow that's one thing that will never work. One day I needed
an odd-sized O ring, and tried it. Dang, once done it was both
impossible to see where the joint was without a magnifying glass, and
the joint was as strong as the rest of the O ring.

"Ron" wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
news
"John Keiser" wrote in message
news:yYidnTRev8b_ZyvUnZ2dnUVZ_gKWnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting
results with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On
flat belts, your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.

Likewise, similar success. A good quality cyanoacrylate glue does an
excellent job on 1.2mm square section cassette belts. As John says
though, it is necessary to get a very clean and perpendicular cut at the
two faces to be joined. Once the joint has been made, a piece of very
fine wet and dry paper can be used to remove any glue that has exuded
from the joint. This can be done with the belt stretched over your
finger. If you are successful, the joint is barely visible without
magnification, and will stand a substantial 'stretch' test

Arfa



I remember when Superglue first came onto the market, there was a TV
advert campaign where a bloke sliced a (fairly hefty) round section
rubber belt in half, then superglued it back together. A few seconds
(apparently) later he stretched it between a pair of parallel bars
(gymnastic equipment) and then sat and bounced on it without falling onto
his arse. Quite impressive, if it wasn't faked.

Like the guy who was 'Solvited' to a helicopter!

Ron



Increasingly off topic, but remember the "Barratt Houses" advert helicopter
that flew under a bridge? Probably totally illegal these days. Especially
with someone Solvited to it.



Gareth.

Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Ron" wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
news "John Keiser" wrote in message
news:yYidnTRev8b_ZyvUnZ2dnUVZ_gKWnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting
results with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On
flat belts, your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.

Likewise, similar success. A good quality cyanoacrylate glue does an
excellent job on 1.2mm square section cassette belts. As John says
though, it is necessary to get a very clean and perpendicular cut at the
two faces to be joined. Once the joint has been made, a piece of very
fine wet and dry paper can be used to remove any glue that has exuded
from the joint. This can be done with the belt stretched over your
finger. If you are successful, the joint is barely visible without
magnification, and will stand a substantial 'stretch' test

Arfa


I remember when Superglue first came onto the market, there was a TV
advert campaign where a bloke sliced a (fairly hefty) round section
rubber belt in half, then superglued it back together. A few seconds
(apparently) later he stretched it between a pair of parallel bars
(gymnastic equipment) and then sat and bounced on it without falling onto
his arse. Quite impressive, if it wasn't faked.
Like the guy who was 'Solvited' to a helicopter!

Ron



Increasingly off topic, but remember the "Barratt Houses" advert helicopter
that flew under a bridge? Probably totally illegal these days. Especially
with someone Solvited to it.

Yeah, they`d probably get a pasting from the authorities.

I`ll get my coat

Ron

"Gareth Magennis" wrote in message
...

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
news

"John Keiser" wrote in message
news:yYidnTRev8b_ZyvUnZ2dnUVZ_gKWnZ2d@hawaiiantel. net...
On square and round belts, I've had surprisingly good, longlasting
results with crazy glue, a clean razor blade and a teflon v-block. On
flat belts, your stitch method may be the best.

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.


Likewise, similar success. A good quality cyanoacrylate glue does an
excellent job on 1.2mm square section cassette belts. As John says
though, it is necessary to get a very clean and perpendicular cut at the
two faces to be joined. Once the joint has been made, a piece of very
fine wet and dry paper can be used to remove any glue that has exuded
from the joint. This can be done with the belt stretched over your
finger. If you are successful, the joint is barely visible without
magnification, and will stand a substantial 'stretch' test

Arfa



I remember when Superglue first came onto the market, there was a TV
advert campaign where a bloke sliced a (fairly hefty) round section rubber
belt in half, then superglued it back together. A few seconds
(apparently) later he stretched it between a pair of parallel bars
(gymnastic equipment) and then sat and bounced on it without falling onto
his arse. Quite impressive, if it wasn't faked.



Gareth.


Ha! I remember that too ...

Arfa

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:56:12 -0400, PeterD wrote:

I have an 'O' ring kit from a top name maker. Designed to allow you to
create your own special sized O rings. The kit has a supply of rubber,
a cutter designed to cut the ends straight, a jig to hold the ends
square, and... A tube of super glue to glue the O ring together.

I thought, wow that's one thing that will never work. One day I needed
an odd-sized O ring, and tried it. Dang, once done it was both
impossible to see where the joint was without a magnifying glass, and
the joint was as strong as the rest of the O ring.

You were lucky that you didn't compress the glue joint. Just squash
the joint with a pair of pliers and watch it crack open.

We tried the same thing, probably with the same kit, to make o-ring
seals for a marine antenna. The problem was that the Cyanoacrylate
adhesive was kinda brittle. I could stretch the o-ring and it would
(usually) not break. however, if I crammed it into a machined slot,
and compressed the o-ring with a matching plate (to make a pressure
tight seal), the glue would crack, the joint would open, and the seal
would leak. The same thing happened when I tried making an emergency
o-ring seal for my shower valve. As soon as the joint was compressed,
the glue would crack. I could minimize the problem by cutting the
o-ring at a 45 degree angle. That gives a larger surface area and a
cushion to prevent cracking. However, the cut had to be perfectly
aligned with the compression angle. Rotate 90 degrees, and once
again, the glue would crack.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 21:31:34 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:56:12 -0400, PeterD wrote:

I have an 'O' ring kit from a top name maker. Designed to allow you to
create your own special sized O rings. The kit has a supply of rubber,
a cutter designed to cut the ends straight, a jig to hold the ends
square, and... A tube of super glue to glue the O ring together.

I thought, wow that's one thing that will never work. One day I needed
an odd-sized O ring, and tried it. Dang, once done it was both
impossible to see where the joint was without a magnifying glass, and
the joint was as strong as the rest of the O ring.

You were lucky that you didn't compress the glue joint. Just squash
the joint with a pair of pliers and watch it crack open.

We tried the same thing, probably with the same kit, to make o-ring
seals for a marine antenna. The problem was that the Cyanoacrylate
adhesive was kinda brittle. I could stretch the o-ring and it would
(usually) not break. however, if I crammed it into a machined slot,
and compressed the o-ring with a matching plate (to make a pressure
tight seal), the glue would crack, the joint would open, and the seal
would leak. The same thing happened when I tried making an emergency
o-ring seal for my shower valve. As soon as the joint was compressed,
the glue would crack. I could minimize the problem by cutting the
o-ring at a 45 degree angle. That gives a larger surface area and a
cushion to prevent cracking. However, the cut had to be perfectly
aligned with the compression angle. Rotate 90 degrees, and once
again, the glue would crack.

Interesting comment, and next time I'll watch for that. IIRC, (Have
not recently checked) the instructions did say to try to make the
O-ring slightly smaller then the original. Of course that won't work
in all situations!