Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor recently
that wouldn't hurt.

In article wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06,
"James Sweet" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06,
"James Sweet" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and
possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP
motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts
up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which
is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to
trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely
better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will
greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the
compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure
when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor
recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in an induction motor.
It really does sound like a problem with the motor itself. If a specific
position causes the breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:EP4Oj.13$wO1.1@trndny04...


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06,
"James Sweet" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single
phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again
(triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating
the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then
start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're
getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps,
so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the
motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge
sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I
replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor
repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could
look at and possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load
amps, for a 5HP motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split
second as it starts up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some
resistance somewhere which is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for
the breaker to trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire,
though a likely better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor
which will greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line
between the compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against
the tank pressure when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the
compressor recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an
internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots
that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20
degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've
observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and
trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip
repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without
tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in
an induction motor. It really does sound like a problem
with the motor itself. If a specific position causes the
breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.
The rotor of an induction motor is filled with shorted
turns. This is what makes it an induction motor. If some of
those turns become open, the fault you observe will be the
result.

David

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 08:28:08 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Check your unloader valve.

In article ,
"David" wrote:


The rotor of an induction motor is filled with shorted
turns. This is what makes it an induction motor. If some of
those turns become open, the fault you observe will be the
result.

David

Is that a problem that you would characterize as economically repairable
on a 5 hp motor?

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"David" wrote:


The rotor of an induction motor is filled with shorted
turns. This is what makes it an induction motor. If some of
those turns become open, the fault you observe will be the
result.

David

Is that a problem that you would characterize as economically repairable
on a 5 hp motor?

I would assume it to require a new rotor, in which case probably not, but a
motor repair shop probably has some good used motors available. Depending on
the nature of the fault, it might be possible to fix it, I'd at least take
it in for an evaluation if you don't feel like opening it up yourself.

"James Sweet" writes:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06,
"James Sweet" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and
possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP
motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts
up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which
is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to
trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely
better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will
greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the
compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure
when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor
recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in an induction motor.
It really does sound like a problem with the motor itself. If a specific
position causes the breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.

I'd go with that. Although very unusual for a motor like this. The
rotor is just a pile of steel plates with the bars of the squirrel cage
embedded in them and welded at the ends.

Is it always the same orientation of the rotor?

Another possibility is that the centrifugal or other starting switch
is somehow not closing so the starting winding is not being energized.
I don't know how rotating the shaft a few degrees could cure this though.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

I'd go with that. Although very unusual for a motor like this. The
rotor is just a pile of steel plates with the bars of the squirrel cage
embedded in them and welded at the ends.

Is it always the same orientation of the rotor?

Another possibility is that the centrifugal or other starting switch
is somehow not closing so the starting winding is not being energized.
I don't know how rotating the shaft a few degrees could cure this though.


Some endplay in the armarture? I've seen it a couple times where the
switch is worn, and the axial movment was enough to trip the switch.

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In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:

"James Sweet" writes:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06,
"James Sweet" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by
hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and
possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP
motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts
up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere
which
is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to
trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely
better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will
greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the
compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure
when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor
recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in an induction
motor.
It really does sound like a problem with the motor itself. If a specific
position causes the breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.

I'd go with that. Although very unusual for a motor like this. The
rotor is just a pile of steel plates with the bars of the squirrel cage
embedded in them and welded at the ends.

Is it always the same orientation of the rotor?

I don't know that.


Another possibility is that the centrifugal or other starting switch
is somehow not closing so the starting winding is not being energized.
I don't know how rotating the shaft a few degrees could cure this though.

If I monitor an analog voltmeter on the starting caps while I cycle the
power switch until it fails to start and the breaker trips, would that
tell me whether it could be the centrifugal switch?


--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in
the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

Smitty Two wrote:

If I monitor an analog voltmeter on the starting caps while I cycle the
power switch until it fails to start and the breaker trips, would that
tell me whether it could be the centrifugal switch?


Why not connect the meter across the switch? If it's closed, it will
have zero volts. If it's open, it will have a high AC voltage. Likely
higher than the AC line. With the power off, you can check the contact
resistance. if it closes when you turn the shaft, find out why.

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"PeterD" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 08:28:08 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Check your unloader valve.

Yeah, if you dont hear a 'hiss' when it shuts down it's very likely the
unloader valve needs attention.

--
Cheers ............. Rheilly

Smitty Two wrote:

In article ,
"David" wrote:


The rotor of an induction motor is filled with shorted
turns. This is what makes it an induction motor. If some of
those turns become open, the fault you observe will be the
result.

David

Is that a problem that you would characterize as economically
repairable on a 5 hp motor?

I have had experience with a motor with a bad squirrel cage ! It ran a
little rough and was way down in torque. It also got a lot hotter than
it normally did.

I tried to solder the copper bars, two of them, where they had cracked
at the end. A waste of time ! A new rotor cured the problem, curtesy
of Brook Motors.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

In article
,
Smitty Two wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article
,
Smitty Two wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.


Would this work?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric

They have a 1750 RPM model for about $100 more, not sure which your
compressor uses.

The motor you have is probably better built, if you can figure out a fix for
the start switch.

Smitty Two wrote:

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.


Some of the problems I've had were that the switch was worn. They
used a piece of fiberboard to activate the switch, and it would wear,
after years of use. Some can be rebuild. if you want to remove the
rivets and machine a new insulator out of the same material. Also, a lot
of manufacturers use the same switches, so sometimes you can find one at
a decent motor rewinding shop.


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On Apr 24, 1:55*pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.

* *Some of the problems I've had were that the switch was worn. *They
used a piece of fiberboard to activate the switch, and it would wear,
after years of use. *Some can be rebuild. if you want to remove the
rivets and machine a new insulator out of the same material. Also, a lot
of manufacturers use the same switches, so sometimes you can find one at
a decent motor rewinding shop.

--http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
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your account:http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A further note on open circuit bars on a squirrel cage motor - if you
can measure the to current to the motor preferably with an analog
ammeter (with a pointer) it shall oscillate at the difference between
shaft speed and synchronous speed. That is at the slip speed. Not to
be confused with any fluctuations at the compressor shaft speed.

In article
,
Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
Smitty Two wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.

Thanks again to all respondents. Tracking down a replacement centrifugal
switch was a bureaucratic nightmare of epic proportion. Cost about $42
plus shipping, so not counting time and frustration, about 1/10 the
price of a new motor of same specifications. Compressor has been up and
running fine for about a week now.