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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel knob.
Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it. Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even just clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or anything? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
#2
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
N Cook wrote:
On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel knob. Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it. Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even just clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or anything? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, I've worked on many of these. The switches don't come apart easily, and often get damaged just removing them from the board, which you would have to do to take one apart. My experience is that they don't hold up for more than a few months if you spray them out. You can put some contact cleaner or lubricant on the new switch if you like, and that may help it last longer than the original one. Arcam still has them in stock, part number A1207. E-mail them at . Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics |
#3
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
Tim Schwartz wrote in message
... N Cook wrote: On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel knob. Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it. Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even just clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or anything? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, I've worked on many of these. The switches don't come apart easily, and often get damaged just removing them from the board, which you would have to do to take one apart. My experience is that they don't hold up for more than a few months if you spray them out. You can put some contact cleaner or lubricant on the new switch if you like, and that may help it last longer than the original one. Arcam still has them in stock, part number A1207. E-mail them at . Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics But any specific hidden hazards beyond taking any switch or pot apart ? As its an otherwise unpopulated area of board I intend hot-air gunning it off. Also intend taking apart to renovate, presumably cleaning off CuS corrosion going by other parts in the amp, rather than happy-squirting and original part replacement would be a back-stop. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
#4
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
On 3ÔÂ11ÈÕ, ÏÂÎç3ʱ47·Ö, "N Cook" wrote:
On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel knob. Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it. Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even just clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or anything? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home..graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Do you want access to China's massive pool of electronic manufacturers... but lack the time to contact suppliers, negotiate contracts, arrange shipping or monitor product quality? Don't worry - Let seriouswholesale deal with all that for you. *Check out the huge range of Gadgets, MP3 / MP4 Players, Car DVD / Audio, and Computer Accessories now by visiting the online wholesale catalog at seriouswholesale. com You'll have peace of mind thanks to the seriouswholesale Quality Control, 12-month Warranty on all products, and easy secure payment by credit card through Paypal. Selling on eBay or your own online store? Send products direct from our warehouse to your customers using our unique drop-shipping service. You can profit by selling hundreds of different products, without holding any of your own inventory! Any questions you have will be answered by the seriouswholesale English-speaking customer support team... Their aim is to make your China electronics importing business easier to run than ever before. Welcome to http://www.seriouswholesale.com. seriouswholesale - Buy from the source, profit without the hassle. - 12 Months Warranty - No minimum order restrictions - Drop-shipping with no additional fee - Pay by safely by PayPal seriouswholesale Wholesale Co., Ltd.: Chinas original and best online electronics wholesaler & drop-shipper: seriouswholesale. com |
#5
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
N Cook wrote:
Tim Schwartz wrote in message ... N Cook wrote: On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel knob. Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it. Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even just clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or anything? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, I've worked on many of these. The switches don't come apart easily, and often get damaged just removing them from the board, which you would have to do to take one apart. My experience is that they don't hold up for more than a few months if you spray them out. You can put some contact cleaner or lubricant on the new switch if you like, and that may help it last longer than the original one. Arcam still has them in stock, part number A1207. E-mail them at . Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics But any specific hidden hazards beyond taking any switch or pot apart ? As its an otherwise unpopulated area of board I intend hot-air gunning it off. Also intend taking apart to renovate, presumably cleaning off CuS corrosion going by other parts in the amp, rather than happy-squirting and original part replacement would be a back-stop. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, Nope, as I recall you can unbend the front tabs and remove the front metal casting with the motor drive. The individual wafers can be unclipped. Just mind the positions of everything, as it is possible to to get a section 180 degrees out of phase with the others. I'd clean out the old goo with alcohol on a cotton swab, use a synthetic oil and reassemble. I've done it once or twice, and it is a 2 hour job, making the new switch seem cheap. Occasionally, some of the pins on the switch will break off as you remove the switch from the board, and then you need a scrap switch to make one good one, if the pin is used. The board is double sided with plated through holes, so be careful when removing it not to pull out the plate through holes. Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics |
#6
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
Tim Schwartz wrote in message
... N Cook wrote: Tim Schwartz wrote in message ... N Cook wrote: On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel knob. Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it. Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even just clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or anything? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, I've worked on many of these. The switches don't come apart easily, and often get damaged just removing them from the board, which you would have to do to take one apart. My experience is that they don't hold up for more than a few months if you spray them out. You can put some contact cleaner or lubricant on the new switch if you like, and that may help it last longer than the original one. Arcam still has them in stock, part number A1207. E-mail them at . Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics But any specific hidden hazards beyond taking any switch or pot apart ? As its an otherwise unpopulated area of board I intend hot-air gunning it off. Also intend taking apart to renovate, presumably cleaning off CuS corrosion going by other parts in the amp, rather than happy-squirting and original part replacement would be a back-stop. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, Nope, as I recall you can unbend the front tabs and remove the front metal casting with the motor drive. The individual wafers can be unclipped. Just mind the positions of everything, as it is possible to to get a section 180 degrees out of phase with the others. I'd clean out the old goo with alcohol on a cotton swab, use a synthetic oil and reassemble. I've done it once or twice, and it is a 2 hour job, making the new switch seem cheap. Occasionally, some of the pins on the switch will break off as you remove the switch from the board, and then you need a scrap switch to make one good one, if the pin is used. The board is double sided with plated through holes, so be careful when removing it not to pull out the plate through holes. Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics I would not fancy desoldering that one by conventional means. No broken pins or lifted tracks/pads. Desoldered the motor and straightened the bent over pins while melting solder before hot-airing apart the whole switch mechanism. All conductors covered in black corrossion, but does all come apart quite safely, after labelling. I will note the contact connections in a specific position for anyone coming a cropper with another one of these. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
#7
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
Tim Schwartz wrote in message
... N Cook wrote: Tim Schwartz wrote in message ... N Cook wrote: On 1993 Arcam Delta 290 amp, for R/C use and also manual front panel knob. Before I take the whole amp apart to remove it. Poor switch contacts. Has anyone taken one apart to renovate or even just clean them, any hidden traps? odd springs, awkward indexing or anything? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, I've worked on many of these. The switches don't come apart easily, and often get damaged just removing them from the board, which you would have to do to take one apart. My experience is that they don't hold up for more than a few months if you spray them out. You can put some contact cleaner or lubricant on the new switch if you like, and that may help it last longer than the original one. Arcam still has them in stock, part number A1207. E-mail them at . Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics But any specific hidden hazards beyond taking any switch or pot apart ? As its an otherwise unpopulated area of board I intend hot-air gunning it off. Also intend taking apart to renovate, presumably cleaning off CuS corrosion going by other parts in the amp, rather than happy-squirting and original part replacement would be a back-stop. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Nigel, Nope, as I recall you can unbend the front tabs and remove the front metal casting with the motor drive. The individual wafers can be unclipped. Just mind the positions of everything, as it is possible to to get a section 180 degrees out of phase with the others. I'd clean out the old goo with alcohol on a cotton swab, use a synthetic oil and reassemble. I've done it once or twice, and it is a 2 hour job, making the new switch seem cheap. Occasionally, some of the pins on the switch will break off as you remove the switch from the board, and then you need a scrap switch to make one good one, if the pin is used. The board is double sided with plated through holes, so be careful when removing it not to pull out the plate through holes. Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics That was the easy part, no one said anything about replacing it back onto the board. What has round pin sockets of .156 inch spacing , 2 row , staggered ? If it was symmetric you could line it up on the other side of the board. So either engineer a gauge plate with 41 holes , .156 in spacing in 7 rows staggered . or drill 2 holes in the pcb to allow rotational symmetry and lining up on the reverse side of the board. or put pins in all the pcb holes and caste a gauge plate in epoxy or something -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
#8
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
Lined up the pins visually in both senses, opened out the topside holes with
a dart point and at the third time of offering up / viewing on reverse side/ adjusting, got it replaced -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
#9
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
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ALPS motor/servo function selector switch
bloody thing
I tested the switches and also that bending the wipers had not produced trouble with extra back torque and driving round via the motor. Now its all soldered in, the safety clutch operates in one position, too much back torque. I had tested before fixing the metal casing back into place around the switch sections and there must be some sort of additional strain/misalignment. Anyway it will desolder easier this time. -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ |
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