I have a 32 inch Toshiba TV (CX32D60) vintage 1994. It developed a problem
with the vertical aspect of the picture. It started after a local power
failure. I, in my infinite wisdom, ran an extension cord out to the car and
plugged it into a small inverter. Anywhooo ... now, when turned on, the
lower six inches or so stays black until warmed up and then about the bottom
few inches stays black. People on the screen look like cone head midgets.
I'm a DIY type person ... do all of my own mechanical work on the cars and
build my own computers etc. but don't know squat about TVs. I hate to toss
it, without at least popping it open and having a look, and am sure not
about to lug it down to a repair shop or pay to have it fixed ... especially
considering how old it is. I somehow feel that I would get screwed in the
deal, like a woman taking her car down to "Bubba's Auto repair" and being
told that her muffler bearings are shot and need to be replaced. I've
Googled around some and have come up with a few things. One is that you can
get the **** shocked out of you, even though it's unplugged. I'm not sure
where and what exactly has to be discharged before tinkering. Any tips on
that would be appreciated and any thought as to what the problem with it is.
I do have a digital volt meter. I came up with this on a web page about TV
repair: Vertical squashed
"This is a vertical deflection problem - possibly a bad capacitor, bad
connection, flyback/pumpup diode, or other component. None of these should
be very expensive (in a relative sort of way).

If the symptoms change - particularly if they become less severe - as the
set warms up, a dried up electrolytic capacitor is most likely. If they get
worse, it could be a bad semiconductor. Freeze spray or a heat gun may be
useful in identifying the defective component.

It is often easiest to substitute a good capacitor for each electrolytic in
the vertical output circuit. Look for bad connections (particularly to the
deflection yoke), then consider replacing the vertical output IC or
transistor(s)."

So, as I said, I don't know **** from Shinola about it but can't let myself
throw it out, without at least having a "look see". Sure would appreciate
your time and effort for any advice or tips. Thanks in advance

Time to troubleshoot the vertical defelction circuit including the
electrolytic capacitors. ESR the caps and change the ones which check out of
tolorence.
"Forrest" wrote in message
...
I have a 32 inch Toshiba TV (CX32D60) vintage 1994. It developed a problem
with the vertical aspect of the picture. It started after a local power
failure. I, in my infinite wisdom, ran an extension cord out to the car and
plugged it into a small inverter. Anywhooo ... now, when turned on, the
lower six inches or so stays black until warmed up and then about the
bottom few inches stays black. People on the screen look like cone head
midgets. I'm a DIY type person ... do all of my own mechanical work on the
cars and build my own computers etc. but don't know squat about TVs. I hate
to toss it, without at least popping it open and having a look, and am sure
not about to lug it down to a repair shop or pay to have it fixed ...
especially considering how old it is. I somehow feel that I would get
screwed in the deal, like a woman taking her car down to "Bubba's Auto
repair" and being told that her muffler bearings are shot and need to be
replaced. I've Googled around some and have come up with a few things. One
is that you can get the **** shocked out of you, even though it's
unplugged. I'm not sure where and what exactly has to be discharged before
tinkering. Any tips on that would be appreciated and any thought as to what
the problem with it is. I do have a digital volt meter. I came up with this
on a web page about TV repair: Vertical squashed
"This is a vertical deflection problem - possibly a bad capacitor, bad
connection, flyback/pumpup diode, or other component. None of these should
be very expensive (in a relative sort of way).

If the symptoms change - particularly if they become less severe - as the
set warms up, a dried up electrolytic capacitor is most likely. If they
get worse, it could be a bad semiconductor. Freeze spray or a heat gun may
be useful in identifying the defective component.

It is often easiest to substitute a good capacitor for each electrolytic
in the vertical output circuit. Look for bad connections (particularly to
the deflection yoke), then consider replacing the vertical output IC or
transistor(s)."

So, as I said, I don't know **** from Shinola about it but can't let
myself throw it out, without at least having a "look see". Sure would
appreciate your time and effort for any advice or tips. Thanks in
advance

Hi,

go to this site and you will get all the info :

http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Repair.html

cheers




On Sat, 5 Jan 2008 17:58:35 -0500, "AJ" wrote:

Time to troubleshoot the vertical defelction circuit including the
electrolytic capacitors. ESR the caps and change the ones which check out of
tolorence.
"Forrest" wrote in message
...
I have a 32 inch Toshiba TV (CX32D60) vintage 1994. It developed a problem
with the vertical aspect of the picture. It started after a local power
failure. I, in my infinite wisdom, ran an extension cord out to the car and
plugged it into a small inverter. Anywhooo ... now, when turned on, the
lower six inches or so stays black until warmed up and then about the
bottom few inches stays black. People on the screen look like cone head
midgets. I'm a DIY type person ... do all of my own mechanical work on the
cars and build my own computers etc. but don't know squat about TVs. I hate
to toss it, without at least popping it open and having a look, and am sure
not about to lug it down to a repair shop or pay to have it fixed ...
especially considering how old it is. I somehow feel that I would get
screwed in the deal, like a woman taking her car down to "Bubba's Auto
repair" and being told that her muffler bearings are shot and need to be
replaced. I've Googled around some and have come up with a few things. One
is that you can get the **** shocked out of you, even though it's
unplugged. I'm not sure where and what exactly has to be discharged before
tinkering. Any tips on that would be appreciated and any thought as to what
the problem with it is. I do have a digital volt meter. I came up with this
on a web page about TV repair: Vertical squashed
"This is a vertical deflection problem - possibly a bad capacitor, bad
connection, flyback/pumpup diode, or other component. None of these should
be very expensive (in a relative sort of way).

If the symptoms change - particularly if they become less severe - as the
set warms up, a dried up electrolytic capacitor is most likely. If they
get worse, it could be a bad semiconductor. Freeze spray or a heat gun may
be useful in identifying the defective component.

It is often easiest to substitute a good capacitor for each electrolytic
in the vertical output circuit. Look for bad connections (particularly to
the deflection yoke), then consider replacing the vertical output IC or
transistor(s)."

So, as I said, I don't know **** from Shinola about it but can't let
myself throw it out, without at least having a "look see". Sure would
appreciate your time and effort for any advice or tips. Thanks in
advance

On Jan 5, 11:41 pm, "Forrest"
wrote:
I have a 32 inch Toshiba TV (CX32D60) vintage 1994. It developed a problem
with the vertical aspect of the picture. It started after a local power
failure. I, in my infinite wisdom, ran an extension cord out to the car and

If You can solder and have access to capacitors then this is likely
fixable. 99% of the time what you describe is due to one 20 cent cap!

don't bother with ESR meters unless you plan on fixing tvs regularly,.
just change the caps near the frame /vertical IC. there aren't many
and they arent expensive. look for a small ish IC, usually on a metal
heat sink with anything from 6 legs. ( older sets used a pair of
transistors but this is doubtful in your case).

tip: if the ic is labelled say IC 401, then change all the nearby
caps similarly labelled , eg c405 c408 etc etc. do them one at a time
so you don't mix them up. good luck

-b

"b" wrote in message
...
On Jan 5, 11:41 pm, "Forrest"
wrote:
I have a 32 inch Toshiba TV (CX32D60) vintage 1994. It developed a
problem
with the vertical aspect of the picture. It started after a local power
failure. I, in my infinite wisdom, ran an extension cord out to the car
and

If You can solder and have access to capacitors then this is likely
fixable. 99% of the time what you describe is due to one 20 cent cap!

don't bother with ESR meters unless you plan on fixing tvs regularly,.
just change the caps near the frame /vertical IC. there aren't many
and they arent expensive. look for a small ish IC, usually on a metal
heat sink with anything from 6 legs. ( older sets used a pair of
transistors but this is doubtful in your case).

tip: if the ic is labelled say IC 401, then change all the nearby
caps similarly labelled , eg c405 c408 etc etc. do them one at a time
so you don't mix them up. good luck

Thanks for the replies and advice but I haven't quite figured out how to
start without either killing myself or trashing the TV. One or two things
I've read say to just short out the caps and picture tube. Then I read all
this stuff about using certain resistors to do it. Like this:

For the CRT, use a high wattage (not for power but to hold off the high
voltage which could jump across a tiny 1/4 watt job) resistor of a 1 to 10 M
ohms discharged to the chassis ground connected to the outside of the CRT -
NOT SIGNAL GROUND ON THE MAIN BOARD as you may damage sensitive circuitry.

Do I need to go to an electronics store and buy some resistors before I
start and if so what do I want?

On Jan 8, 4:56 am, "Forrest"
Thanks for the replies and advice but I haven't quite figured out how to
start without either killing myself or trashing the TV. One or two things
I've read say to just short out the caps and picture tube. Then I read all
this stuff about using certain resistors to do it. Like this:

For the CRT, use a high wattage (not for power but to hold off the high
voltage which could jump across a tiny 1/4 watt job) resistor of a 1 to 10 M
ohms discharged to the chassis ground connected to the outside of the CRT -
NOT SIGNAL GROUND ON THE MAIN BOARD as you may damage sensitive circuitry.

Do I need to go to an electronics store and buy some resistors before I
start and if so what do I want?

that is just overkill. unless youre planning to remove the big line
transformer then you needn't short out anything. just leave the set
unplugged for a few hours or even overnight and you will be fine,
just don't touch the big red wire going to the sucker on the tube!

On Jan 7, 10:56*pm, "Forrest"
wrote:
"b" wrote in message

...

On Jan 5, 11:41 pm, "Forrest"
wrote:
I have a 32 inch Toshiba TV (CX32D60) vintage 1994. It developed a
problem
with the vertical aspect of the picture. It started after a local power
failure. I, in my infinite wisdom, ran an extension cord out to the car
and

If *You can solder and have access to capacitors then this is likely
fixable. 99% of the time what you describe is due to one 20 cent cap!

don't bother with ESR meters unless you plan on fixing tvs regularly,.
just change the caps near the frame /vertical IC. there aren't many
and they arent expensive. look for a small ish IC, usually on a metal
heat sink with anything from 6 legs. ( older sets used a pair of
transistors but this is doubtful in your case).

tip: *if the ic is labelled say IC 401, then change all the nearby
caps similarly labelled , eg c405 c408 *etc etc. do them one at a time
so you don't mix them up. good luck

Thanks for the replies and advice but I haven't quite figured out how to
start without either killing myself or trashing the TV. One or two things
I've read say to just short out the caps and picture tube. Then I read all
this stuff about using certain resistors to do it. Like this:

For the CRT, use a high wattage (not for power but to hold off the high
voltage which could jump across a tiny 1/4 watt job) resistor of a 1 to 10 M
ohms discharged to the chassis ground connected to the outside of the CRT -
NOT SIGNAL GROUND ON THE MAIN BOARD as you may damage sensitive circuitry.

Do I need to go to an electronics store and buy some resistors before I
start and if so what do I want?

More important than the resistors, I think, is to have something that
will allow
you to safely make electrical contact with the high voltage clip on
the tube.
This is usually under a large, rubber-like cap. You need something
that will
allow you to poke under that cap and touch the clip while electrically
insulating
you from high voltage, also bearing in mind that you're scraping
against a glass
tube (so it shouldn't have any sharp edges). Obviously (I hope) a
long screwdriver
is out, since its metal shaft would be bringing the high voltage
charge close
to your hand. All sets probably use built-in discharge circuits, but
I never trust
those - I just feel safer knowing I've discharged the tube myself.