Gummo ha escrito:
My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or Hoover?

Gummo

cross posted to sci electronics repair. maybe someone there cn shed
some light on the cause .

"b" wrote in message
ups.com...

Gummo ha escrito:
My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look
good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.

Leaking refrigerant or natural gas?

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago
and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or
Hoover?

Sometimes there is a 5 year warranty on the sealed unit. Once we would
repair these but now, not so much.

b wrote:
Gummo ha escrito:

My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or Hoover?

Gummo




Refrigerant is not really harmful so don't fear the leak, but the
compressor will burn out if it runs empty. I would begin by contacting
the place you bought it, they should either take care of it for you or
point you to the correct place to contact. Depending on where the leak
is it should not be too difficult to repair.

b wrote:
Gummo ha escrito:
My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or Hoover?

Gummo

cross posted to sci electronics repair. maybe someone there cn shed
some light on the cause .

There is a 5 year warranty on the Compressor !

There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!

I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to
speed up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put
it on a dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save
everybody a lot of time and trouble.
The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place
a large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the
pan with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is
scratch the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under warranty.

Yukio YANO

b ] said:

Gummo ha escrito:
My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or Hoover?

Gummo

cross posted to sci electronics repair. maybe someone there cn shed
some light on the cause .



On the basis that fridge coolant is a, in a secret life, really an
electronic component?

Bert writes:

b ] said:

Gummo ha escrito:
My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or Hoover?

Gummo

cross posted to sci electronics repair. maybe someone there cn shed
some light on the cause .

On the basis that fridge coolant is a, in a secret life, really an
electronic component?

Degreaser?

Or, that it's an electronic problem once the compressor burns out.

Seriously, perflectly legitimate to post here.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Yukio YANO" wrote in message
news:Tr7Jh.13286$DN.1062@pd7urf2no...
b wrote:
Gummo ha escrito:
My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't look
good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen window.

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year ago
and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or
Hoover?

Gummo

cross posted to sci electronics repair. maybe someone there cn shed
some light on the cause .

There is a 5 year warranty on the Compressor !

There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!

I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to
speed up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put
it on a dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save
everybody a lot of time and trouble.
The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place
a large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the
pan with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is
scratch the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under
warranty.

Yukio YANO

I use a hair dryer on low heat even though I own a heat gun. Above freezing
air is practically as effective as hot air. Air flow is more important than
temperature. Still air has a boundary layer, that acts like insulation, you
want to keep broken.Water forms a boundary layer too. That's why bath water
feels warmer when you move after a period of soaking.

"Captain Midnight" wrote in message
...

I use a hair dryer on low heat even though I own a heat gun. Above
freezing
air is practically as effective as hot air. Air flow is more important
than
temperature. Still air has a boundary layer, that acts like insulation,
you
want to keep broken.Water forms a boundary layer too. That's why bath
water
feels warmer when you move after a period of soaking.

I've used a fan heater on low.

There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!

I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to
speed up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put
it on a dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save
everybody a lot of time and trouble.
The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place
a large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the
pan with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is
scratch the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under warranty.



What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and
let the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator
coils. That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few
very old refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:t6oJh.11544$mh7.3573@trnddc04...


There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!

I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to speed
up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put it on a
dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save everybody a
lot of time and trouble.
The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place a
large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the pan
with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is scratch
the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under warranty.



What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and let the
hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator coils. That
would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few very old
refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.


Admittedly not a refrigerator, but still a refrigeration system, heat pump HVAC
systems do exactly that... the valves in the system are arranged and switched
so that as the condenser on the outside unit collects frost and eventually ices
up (heat pump mode), the system reverses the valves and the condenser is heated
and the ice melts (defrost mode). When the system determines that the ice has
melted, it switches the valves back to heat mode.
In defrost mode, the system is essentially an air conditioner.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it goes.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:t6oJh.11544$mh7.3573@trnddc04...

What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and let
the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator coils.
That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few very old
refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.

One more thing to go wrong with a sealed unit.

What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and let the
hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator coils. That
would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few very old
refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.



Admittedly not a refrigerator, but still a refrigeration system, heat pump HVAC
systems do exactly that... the valves in the system are arranged and switched
so that as the condenser on the outside unit collects frost and eventually ices
up (heat pump mode), the system reverses the valves and the condenser is heated
and the ice melts (defrost mode). When the system determines that the ice has
melted, it switches the valves back to heat mode.
In defrost mode, the system is essentially an air conditioner.



Yes I'm quite familiar with those having installed several of them. Most
heat pumps you'll find out there don't actually sense frost buildup but
rather have a simple interval timer which triggers a defrost cycle every
30, 60, or 90 minutes. A defrost termination thermostat senses the
temperature of the line out of the outdoor coil (which is the evaporator
in heating mode) and returns the the unit to heating mode when this
trips. I modified my own unit with a surplus vacuum operated sensor I
found, it has a diaphragm which uses the pressure drop from the fan
across the coil when it ices up to trip a switch which is then reset by
a capillary tube and bulb in the location where the original DT
thermostat was located. In my climate this dramatically reduced the
number of energy wasting unnecessary defrost cycles, not sure how well
it would work elsewhere. It's a big boost to comfort as well, my backup
heat is a gas furnace so I can only run one or the other, a defrost
cycle means an icy blast of cold air which can drop the room temperature
by several degrees. A/C is very efficient when the condenser is down
near freezing. Other methods have been tried in the past but all I've
seen until very recently are the timers. Some very high end units today
use a demand defrost system which monitors trends in the evaporator
temperature to determine when a defrost is necessary, I have no
experience with these so I can't say whether they work well or not.

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:t6oJh.11544$mh7.3573@trnddc04...


What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and let
the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator coils.
That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few very old
refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.


One more thing to go wrong with a sealed unit.



Yeah well so is an ice pick in the evaporator.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:GToJh.11780$mh7.8835@trnddc04...

One more thing to go wrong with a sealed unit.

Yeah well so is an ice pick in the evaporator.

So is an ice pick in the eye!

James Sweet writes:


There is NO guaranty on defrosting using a Knife or Icepick !!

I regularly used to tell my junior Technicians, "Don't bother trying to
speed up defrosting the Lab Freezers with a knife or icepick". Just put
it on a dolly and put it out on the loading dock for the dump , and save
everybody a lot of time and trouble.
The proper way to Defrost a freezer is Just unplug the freezer and place
a large pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door, replace the
pan with more hot water until all the ice melts. All you need to do is
scratch the Evaporator to destroy it !! This is NOT covered under warranty.

What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and
let the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator
coils. That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few
very old refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.

Cost, cost, cost, cost.

What's wrong with a couple pans of hot water, rags at bottom, close the door,
wait an hour while you do something else! People who have to have instant
gratification for a task that's performed once a year if that!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:rPoJh.11757$mh7.4952@trnddc04...



What would be nice is a valve to short circuit the metering device and let
the hot vapor from the compressor flow straight into the evaporator coils.
That would defrost it in a matter of minutes. I've heard of a few very old
refrigerators that worked this way but nothing modern does it.



Admittedly not a refrigerator, but still a refrigeration system, heat pump
HVAC systems do exactly that... the valves in the system are arranged and
switched so that as the condenser on the outside unit collects frost and
eventually ices up (heat pump mode), the system reverses the valves and the
condenser is heated and the ice melts (defrost mode). When the system
determines that the ice has melted, it switches the valves back to heat mode.
In defrost mode, the system is essentially an air conditioner.



Yes I'm quite familiar with those having installed several of them. Most heat
pumps you'll find out there don't actually sense frost buildup but rather have
a simple interval timer which triggers a defrost cycle every 30, 60, or 90
minutes. A defrost termination thermostat senses the temperature of the line
out of the outdoor coil (which is the evaporator in heating mode) and returns
the the unit to heating mode when this trips. I modified my own unit with a
surplus vacuum operated sensor I found, it has a diaphragm which uses the
pressure drop from the fan across the coil when it ices up to trip a switch
which is then reset by a capillary tube and bulb in the location where the
original DT thermostat was located. In my climate this dramatically reduced
the number of energy wasting unnecessary defrost cycles, not sure how well it
would work elsewhere. It's a big boost to comfort as well, my backup heat is a
gas furnace so I can only run one or the other, a defrost cycle means an icy
blast of cold air which can drop the room temperature by several degrees. A/C
is very efficient when the condenser is down near freezing. Other methods have
been tried in the past but all I've seen until very recently are the timers.
Some very high end units today use a demand defrost system which monitors
trends in the evaporator temperature to determine when a defrost is necessary,
I have no experience with these so I can't say whether they work well or not.


Yeppers... Until a few years ago, I had an old GE Weathertron heat pump system.
Terribly inefficient by today's standards, but it got the job done. It had a
vacuum sensor in the outside unit that sensed a drop in air pressure inside the
coils, whereupon it switched into defrost mode. It ran the auxillary heat
strips while in defrost mode to keep from cooling the house while in defrost. A
capillary sensed the coil temperature and switched back into heat pump mode when
the coil temp got high enough. It worked quite well; only went into defrost
when necessary.

Scared me the first time I saw it defrosting... the big column of vapor steaming
up from the unit was awesome. I thought the thing was on fire!!

I had to replace the entire system when the compressor locked up after 25 or so
years of operation. Don't know how the Lennox system I bought as the
replacement determines that it needs to defrost... could be a timer. But it
seems to work well, even in sub-freezing temps and high Florida humidity.

Cheers!!!
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it goes.

"DaveM" wrote in message
. ..

I had to replace the entire system when the compressor locked up after 25
or so years of operation. Don't know how the Lennox system I bought as
the replacement determines that it needs to defrost... could be a timer.
But it seems to work well, even in sub-freezing temps and high Florida
humidity.

These days you are better off to look at one of the Japanese split system
heat pumps.

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

What's wrong with a couple pans of hot water, rags at bottom, close the
door,
wait an hour while you do something else! People who have to have instant
gratification for a task that's performed once a year if that!


I love the gratification of my food not spoiling. What are you doing for
gratification while the pan is in the fridge? ;^)

I'm guessing it'd take at least 12 hours of hot water to completely defrost
my old fridge. I take out the panels and keep at it to get it all not just
enough to get some air flow. First time was when the defrost timer was only
working on every other cycle and ~ten years later to try and save it. Didn't
want to put any money into a 25 year old so didn't bother doing any
troubleshooting. Do they still sell fridges that aren't "frost free"?.

Actually it was 3 times. Didn't realize the timer had 2 cycles the first
time. IIRC the second cleaning was less than a year later. Soon enough I
knew it had a problem at any rate.

Cost, cost, cost, cost.

What's wrong with a couple pans of hot water, rags at bottom, close the door,
wait an hour while you do something else! People who have to have instant
gratification for a task that's performed once a year if that!




I was actually thinking more along the lines of domestic refrigerators
where a defrost element is turned on on a regular basis so you have to
pay for the power that uses, then you pay again to pump that heat back
out of the freezer. Using the compressor to defrost would be ~3x as
efficient and it would put the heat exactly where it's needed.

Yeppers... Until a few years ago, I had an old GE Weathertron heat pump system.
Terribly inefficient by today's standards, but it got the job done. It had a
vacuum sensor in the outside unit that sensed a drop in air pressure inside the
coils, whereupon it switched into defrost mode. It ran the auxillary heat
strips while in defrost mode to keep from cooling the house while in defrost. A
capillary sensed the coil temperature and switched back into heat pump mode when
the coil temp got high enough. It worked quite well; only went into defrost
when necessary.

Scared me the first time I saw it defrosting... the big column of vapor steaming
up from the unit was awesome. I thought the thing was on fire!!

I had to replace the entire system when the compressor locked up after 25 or so
years of operation. Don't know how the Lennox system I bought as the
replacement determines that it needs to defrost... could be a timer. But it
seems to work well, even in sub-freezing temps and high Florida humidity.

Cheers!!!



I'd actually really like to see one of the systems that used the vacuum
switch, they were largely before my time so I had to figure out on my
own how to make the thing work once a friend of mine stumbled across the
switches at a surplus joint and clued me in.

Some of those old systems were not as inneficient as you might be lead
to believe by the guys who install this stuff who are usually all too
eager to sell you a brand new system. Keep the coils clean and install a
TXV to replace the old cap tube or orifice metering device inside and
they can work pretty well, the tech has not really changed all that
much. I'm sure countless systems have been replaced at great expense for
problems as simple as a burned contactor or a broken wire to the compressor.

Of course a compressor replacement is a big job on the best of days and
it's hard to find anyone willing to work on the old stuff anymore. The
general attitude of the HVAC industry as a whole is what pushed me to
learn to do this stuff myself. Several years ago when I first started
inquiring about it I found the vast majority of the guys I ran into who
did it were a bunch of pompous a**holes. I'm sure they're not all like
that but it takes only a few bad apples to spoil the whole barrel. I
researched for a few months soaking up everything I could get my hands
on, then went and got my EPA certification and put together my own
system with surplus parts and have been having fun tinkering with this
stuff ever since. It's not always a walk in the park but rocket science
it ain't.

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"DaveM" wrote in message
. ..


I had to replace the entire system when the compressor locked up after 25
or so years of operation. Don't know how the Lennox system I bought as
the replacement determines that it needs to defrost... could be a timer.
But it seems to work well, even in sub-freezing temps and high Florida
humidity.


These days you are better off to look at one of the Japanese split system
heat pumps.



What brands are Japanese? HVAC is one of the few areas where I haven't
run into much foreign equipment. Either way this stuff is pretty
dependable for the most part, properly installed there isn't much to go
wrong. There are not that many different companies that make the
internal bits, and efficiency regulations have limited the number of
corners that can be cut in the manufacture.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:E%IJh.1927$y56.885@trnddc07...

I was actually thinking more along the lines of domestic refrigerators
where a defrost element is turned on on a regular basis so you have to pay
for the power that uses, then you pay again to pump that heat back out of
the freezer. Using the compressor to defrost would be ~3x as efficient and
it would put the heat exactly where it's needed.

A conventional system has only three moving parts - the rotor and valves in
the compressor. A reversing valve adds complication and reduces reliability.

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:E%IJh.1927$y56.885@trnddc07...


I was actually thinking more along the lines of domestic refrigerators
where a defrost element is turned on on a regular basis so you have to pay
for the power that uses, then you pay again to pump that heat back out of
the freezer. Using the compressor to defrost would be ~3x as efficient and
it would put the heat exactly where it's needed.


A conventional system has only three moving parts - the rotor and valves in
the compressor. A reversing valve adds complication and reduces reliability.




Wouldn't have to be a reversing valve, just a bypass valve. It would
eliminate the defrost element and improve efficiency, I don't see it
substantially reducing reliability.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:z9JJh.1930$y56.1924@trnddc07...

What brands are Japanese? HVAC is one of the few areas where I haven't run
into much foreign equipment. Either way this stuff is pretty dependable
for the most part, properly installed there isn't much to go wrong. There
are not that many different companies that make the internal bits, and
efficiency regulations have limited the number of corners that can be cut
in the manufacture.

They're very big in the northern parts of Australia.

Try (split system heat pump site:.au)

The inside unit looks like a skirting heater but mounts higher on the wall.
The compressor is outside so much quieter. Of course they don't suit the
ducted systems used in N America.

They're very big in the northern parts of Australia.

Try (split system heat pump site:.au)

The inside unit looks like a skirting heater but mounts higher on the wall.
The compressor is outside so much quieter. Of course they don't suit the
ducted systems used in N America.



Ah, we can get those here, they're called mini splits, always struck me
as shockingly expensive though, even surplus they're not any cheaper
than a standard full sized split system.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:E%IJh.1927$y56.885@trnddc07...
Cost, cost, cost, cost.

What's wrong with a couple pans of hot water, rags at bottom, close
the door,
wait an hour while you do something else! People who have to have
instant
gratification for a task that's performed once a year if that!

I was actually thinking more along the lines of domestic refrigerators
where a defrost element is turned on on a regular basis so you have to
pay for the power that uses, then you pay again to pump that heat back
out of the freezer. Using the compressor to defrost would be ~3x as
efficient and it would put the heat exactly where it's needed.

As most of that heat is produced by the cooling process, once the
cooling process is interrupted, any heat pumped by the compressor would
be greatly reduced, also the compressor probably takes more power to run
than a defrost heater, so it would cost more to run using the idea you
suggested.

Have we found out yet if the original problem was caused by a punctured
system?

James Sweet writes:


Cost, cost, cost, cost.

What's wrong with a couple pans of hot water, rags at bottom, close the door,
wait an hour while you do something else! People who have to have instant
gratification for a task that's performed once a year if that!

I was actually thinking more along the lines of domestic refrigerators
where a defrost element is turned on on a regular basis so you have to
pay for the power that uses, then you pay again to pump that heat back
out of the freezer. Using the compressor to defrost would be ~3x as
efficient and it would put the heat exactly where it's needed.

But what percentage of the energy goes into defrost?

The defrost thermostat is supposed to cut off the heater when all the
ice melts.

If the 400? watt heater actually runs for 5 minutes every 6 hours, that's
about 0.13 kWh/day which is negligible compared to the fridge's cooling
power consumption.

Also, of course, this takes place only in the evaporator compartment, which
is not actually in the freezer box itself. So, it's mainly the aluminum
tubes and fins that need to be cooled back down.

I agree with another reply - the simpler, the better for what's inside
the sealed system.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:CpMJh.16165$mh7.13122@trnddc04...

Ah, we can get those here, they're called mini splits, always struck me as
shockingly expensive though, even surplus they're not any cheaper than a
standard full sized split system.

I suspect the price is high because they are new. They would be a good add
on for a hot water heat system where there's no ducting.

As most of that heat is produced by the cooling process, once the
cooling process is interrupted, any heat pumped by the compressor would
be greatly reduced, also the compressor probably takes more power to run
than a defrost heater, so it would cost more to run using the idea you
suggested.

Have we found out yet if the original problem was caused by a punctured
system?




Well it's not my fridge so I haven't found the problem, it was someone
else's post.

As for the power, I've only ever measured my own refrigerator.
Compressor draws about 130W once the head pressure builds up. Defrost
heater draws a bit over 600W, and I suspect using the compressor for
defrost would defrost more quickly so I bet you'd still come out quite
ahead. Heat pumps are in general about 3x the BTUs per watt of
resistance heat.

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
Bert writes:

b ] said:

Gummo ha escrito:
My son's fridge/freezer has been leaking gas tonight. It doesn't
look good
for the fridge - I told him to turn it off and open the kitchen
window.

The question is, although Curry's one year guarantee expired a year
ago and
knowing that, by law, the appliance should last at least 5 years
before
something like this happens, who do I hold responsible? Currys or
Hoover?

Gummo

cross posted to sci electronics repair. maybe someone there cn shed
some light on the cause .

On the basis that fridge coolant is a, in a secret life, really an
electronic component?

Degreaser?

Or, that it's an electronic problem once the compressor burns out.

Seriously, perflectly legitimate to post here.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
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Yeah especially since there are many knowledgeable people here that know
about lots of different things other than electronics.

It also makes for interesting discussions and reading. ;-)

- Mike

"Harry Stottle" wrote in message
news:TlPJh.2570$_v3.771@newsfe1-

Have we found out yet if the original problem was caused by a punctured
system?

My son called C&G, Currys maintenance sub-contractor, who want £100 to look
at it but which he declined pending signs of the until actually stopping its
cooling function. Until then I don't think he can conclusively claim the
thing's broke!

Gummo

"Gummo" wrote in message
...
"Harry Stottle" wrote in message
news:TlPJh.2570$_v3.771@newsfe1-

Have we found out yet if the original problem was caused by a punctured
system?

My son called C&G, Currys maintenance sub-contractor, who want £100 to
look at it but which he declined pending signs of the until actually
stopping its cooling function. Until then I don't think he can
conclusively claim the thing's broke!

I used to come to the house and take a look for 7/6d

Man I must be old!

Homer J Simpson wrote:
"Gummo" wrote in message
...

"Harry Stottle" wrote in message
news:TlPJh.2570$_v3.771@newsfe1-


Have we found out yet if the original problem was caused by a punctured
system?

My son called C&G, Currys maintenance sub-contractor, who want £100 to
look at it but which he declined pending signs of the until actually
stopping its cooling function. Until then I don't think he can
conclusively claim the thing's broke!


I used to come to the house and take a look for 7/6d

Man I must be old!





I'll do it for pizza and/or beer on occasion, but only when it's local
to me.

Hi!

Do they still sell fridges that aren't "frost free"?.

I have a "nearly full size" GE unit made in 2001 that has a "semi-frost
free" refrigerator section and a conventional must-be-defrosted freezer
area.

It's a rework of an old design, or so it would appear. This one uses 134a
refrigerant. I bought it secondhand and saw units sitting right next to it
that were a few years older and R-12 based. Although there probably was no
real difference in functionality (this thing cools very well!) I figured it
would be easier to get rid of at the end of its useful life compared to the
ones filled with R-12.

Curiously enough, this unit was made in Slovenia. I'd never heard of
refrigeration equipment being made there!

William