I'm doing scheduled maintenance on a number of PA system amplifiers
located in a night club.

Normally these machines get a clean with compressed air and optional
paintbrush for stubborn fur balls.

Some clubs use smoke machines and this oily fluid frequently finds its
way in to equipment.

Is my best cleaning strategy for cleaning amps affected by this
problem to liberally wash the PCB with isopropanol and let them dry?

Removing the boards would have to be the only way I suppose as in-situ
cleaning, aside from creating problems with excess solvent, means the
underside of the board doesn't get done.

Optionally I can use methylated spirits (denatured ethanol) as a
cleaning solvent which is MUCH cheaper than isopropanol here although
probably not as effective in terms of removing oily residues.

Any feedback appreciated!

Cheers, Anton.

"Antony N. Lord" wrote in message
...

Some clubs use smoke machines and this oily fluid frequently finds its
way in to equipment.

FWIW, I believe the chemical is (ethylene) glycol mixed with water. In the
US they are called fog machines.

http://www.smoke-source.com/Smoke_Machine.html

In article , Antony N. Lord wrote:
I'm doing scheduled maintenance on a number of PA system amplifiers
located in a night club.

Normally these machines get a clean with compressed air and optional
paintbrush for stubborn fur balls.

Some clubs use smoke machines and this oily fluid frequently finds its
way in to equipment.

Is my best cleaning strategy for cleaning amps affected by this
problem to liberally wash the PCB with isopropanol and let them dry?

Removing the boards would have to be the only way I suppose as in-situ
cleaning, aside from creating problems with excess solvent, means the
underside of the board doesn't get done.

Optionally I can use methylated spirits (denatured ethanol) as a
cleaning solvent which is MUCH cheaper than isopropanol here although
probably not as effective in terms of removing oily residues.

Any feedback appreciated!

See how it works. i would think water or water/alcohol would be best.

greg

Antony N. Lord wrote:
I'm doing scheduled maintenance on a number of PA system amplifiers
located in a night club.

Normally these machines get a clean with compressed air and optional
paintbrush for stubborn fur balls.

Some clubs use smoke machines and this oily fluid frequently finds its
way in to equipment.

Is my best cleaning strategy for cleaning amps affected by this
problem to liberally wash the PCB with isopropanol and let them dry?

Removing the boards would have to be the only way I suppose as in-situ
cleaning, aside from creating problems with excess solvent, means the
underside of the board doesn't get done.

Optionally I can use methylated spirits (denatured ethanol) as a
cleaning solvent which is MUCH cheaper than isopropanol here although
probably not as effective in terms of removing oily residues.

Any feedback appreciated!

Cheers, Anton.

Short of using some dedicated flux remover or PC board cleaner in a can,
here is one thing you can try: WD40. SPray on WD40 and scrub with a
small paint brush, tooth brush or Q-tips. I had a old pioneer board last
week i tried with alcohol and such and it would not come clean or would
leave deposits on the board. The WD40 seemed to do the trick.

I have also tried small portable steamers with limited success.

Bob

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Bob Urz wrote:


Antony N. Lord wrote:
I'm doing scheduled maintenance on a number of PA system amplifiers
located in a night club.

Normally these machines get a clean with compressed air and optional
paintbrush for stubborn fur balls.

Some clubs use smoke machines and this oily fluid frequently finds its
way in to equipment.

Is my best cleaning strategy for cleaning amps affected by this
problem to liberally wash the PCB with isopropanol and let them dry?

Removing the boards would have to be the only way I suppose as in-situ
cleaning, aside from creating problems with excess solvent, means the
underside of the board doesn't get done.

Optionally I can use methylated spirits (denatured ethanol) as a
cleaning solvent which is MUCH cheaper than isopropanol here although
probably not as effective in terms of removing oily residues.

Any feedback appreciated!

Cheers, Anton.

Short of using some dedicated flux remover or PC board cleaner in a can,
here is one thing you can try: WD40. SPray on WD40 and scrub with a
small paint brush, tooth brush or Q-tips. I had a old pioneer board last
week i tried with alcohol and such and it would not come clean or would
leave deposits on the board. The WD40 seemed to do the trick.

I have also tried small portable steamers with limited success.

Bob

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I've had pretty good luck with Simple Green and a scrub brush (tooth
brush for hard to reach spots).

jak

"jakdedert" wrote in message
...
Bob Urz wrote:


Antony N. Lord wrote:
I'm doing scheduled maintenance on a number of PA system amplifiers
located in a night club.

Normally these machines get a clean with compressed air and optional
paintbrush for stubborn fur balls.

Some clubs use smoke machines and this oily fluid frequently finds its
way in to equipment.

Is my best cleaning strategy for cleaning amps affected by this
problem to liberally wash the PCB with isopropanol and let them dry?

Removing the boards would have to be the only way I suppose as in-situ
cleaning, aside from creating problems with excess solvent, means the
underside of the board doesn't get done.

Optionally I can use methylated spirits (denatured ethanol) as a
cleaning solvent which is MUCH cheaper than isopropanol here although
probably not as effective in terms of removing oily residues.

Any feedback appreciated!

Cheers, Anton.

Short of using some dedicated flux remover or PC board cleaner in a can,
here is one thing you can try: WD40. SPray on WD40 and scrub with a
small paint brush, tooth brush or Q-tips. I had a old pioneer board last
week i tried with alcohol and such and it would not come clean or would
leave deposits on the board. The WD40 seemed to do the trick.

I have also tried small portable steamers with limited success.

Bob

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News==----
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Newsgroups
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=----

I've had pretty good luck with Simple Green and a scrub brush (tooth brush
for hard to reach spots).

jak


There's a particular commercial board that I repair in large quantities,
which gets very dirty with food residues, in some cases. It is all
conventional leaded and surface mount R's, C's and semis. Has a few
pin-type, and box header type connectors. No enclosed items. No coils. I
wash these with hot water and normal washing up detergent. I squib some
detergent on first, then flick on some hot water from a running tap (
faucet ), using a nylon-bristled long-handled dishwashing brush. The
detergent can then be worked up into a lather with the brush, and the board
given a good scrub, both sides. It is then thoroughly rinsed under the
running hot water, then firmly shaken to remove the bulk of the water, and
finally placed on end in front of a fairly powerful fan. It is totally dry
inside a couple of minutes, and looks like new. Have never had any issues
with any kind of short or long-term problems, following carrying out this
cleaning.

Arfa

"Arfa Daily" wrote in
:



There's a particular commercial board that I repair in large
quantities, which gets very dirty with food residues, in some cases.
It is all conventional leaded and surface mount R's, C's and semis.
Has a few pin-type, and box header type connectors. No enclosed items.
No coils. I wash these with hot water and normal washing up detergent.
I squib some detergent on first, then flick on some hot water from a
running tap ( faucet ), using a nylon-bristled long-handled
dishwashing brush. The detergent can then be worked up into a lather
with the brush, and the board given a good scrub, both sides. It is
then thoroughly rinsed under the running hot water, then firmly shaken
to remove the bulk of the water, and finally placed on end in front of
a fairly powerful fan. It is totally dry inside a couple of minutes,
and looks like new. Have never had any issues with any kind of short
or long-term problems, following carrying out this cleaning.

Arfa




I've run circuit boards through my automatic dishwasher using Calgonite(no
rinse agent),but I prefer a drying oven (not 150 degF) with a slight
negative pressure inside to draw out moisture.This was particularly good
for hi-Z DMM boards,often solving leakage problems.


At TEK-Indy and Orlando,we used a sprayed Kelite solution(commercial
degreaser),water rinse,and into the drying oven for 3 days minimum,but that
was for whole instruments.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:
"Arfa Daily" wrote in
:



There's a particular commercial board that I repair in large
quantities, which gets very dirty with food residues, in some cases.
It is all conventional leaded and surface mount R's, C's and semis.
Has a few pin-type, and box header type connectors. No enclosed items.
No coils. I wash these with hot water and normal washing up detergent.
I squib some detergent on first, then flick on some hot water from a
running tap ( faucet ), using a nylon-bristled long-handled
dishwashing brush. The detergent can then be worked up into a lather
with the brush, and the board given a good scrub, both sides. It is
then thoroughly rinsed under the running hot water, then firmly shaken
to remove the bulk of the water, and finally placed on end in front of
a fairly powerful fan. It is totally dry inside a couple of minutes,
and looks like new. Have never had any issues with any kind of short
or long-term problems, following carrying out this cleaning.

Arfa




I've run circuit boards through my automatic dishwasher using Calgonite(no
rinse agent),but I prefer a drying oven (not 150 degF) with a slight
negative pressure inside to draw out moisture.This was particularly good
for hi-Z DMM boards,often solving leakage problems.


At TEK-Indy and Orlando,we used a sprayed Kelite solution(commercial
degreaser),water rinse,and into the drying oven for 3 days minimum,but that
was for whole instruments.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

I like to use Naptha, it seems to leave components untouched, but
dissolves most residues from circuit boards.

H. R. (Bob) Hofmann

The message
from Jim Yanik contains these words:

"Arfa Daily" wrote in
:



There's a particular commercial board that I repair in large
quantities, which gets very dirty with food residues, in some cases.
It is all conventional leaded and surface mount R's, C's and semis.
Has a few pin-type, and box header type connectors. No enclosed items.
No coils. I wash these with hot water and normal washing up detergent.
I squib some detergent on first, then flick on some hot water from a
running tap ( faucet ), using a nylon-bristled long-handled
dishwashing brush. The detergent can then be worked up into a lather
with the brush, and the board given a good scrub, both sides. It is
then thoroughly rinsed under the running hot water, then firmly shaken
to remove the bulk of the water, and finally placed on end in front of
a fairly powerful fan. It is totally dry inside a couple of minutes,
and looks like new. Have never had any issues with any kind of short
or long-term problems, following carrying out this cleaning.

Arfa




I've run circuit boards through my automatic dishwasher using Calgonite(no
rinse agent),but I prefer a drying oven (not 150 degF) with a slight
negative pressure inside to draw out moisture. This was particularly good
for hi-Z DMM boards,often solving leakage problems.


At TEK-Indy and Orlando,we used a sprayed Kelite solution(commercial
degreaser),water rinse,and into the drying oven for 3 days minimum,but that
was for whole instruments.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Re WD40
Have you ever tried to resolder joints after contact with this product?

I find one of the foaming cleaners sold for car upholstery the remedy
that suits me.

--
Jocelyn

Tetigisti acu. (Titus Maccius Plautus 254 - 184BC)

Meat Plow wrote:


I would use flux stripper.

I second this. Works great for oily goop, not so great for water based
goop.