I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: 2 or 3 times we did hear a
"chirp" as quoted from the manual below.

CRT Filament Supply
The CRT Filament supply is not generated by either Switch Mode
Regulator. It is generated in the collector circuit of the Horizontal
Output transistor, Q5A31, as shown in Figure 3-5. The horizontal drive
signal induced in the secondary winding of T5A31 is rectified by D5A33,
and regulated by Q5A36, using IC5A05 as the reference.

HV Circuit 12 Volt Supply
It was stated that the 12 Volt supply for the HV Drive circuitry
(IC5A00) was derived from the +24 Volt supply. Figure 3-6 shows this
circuit in more detail. The 10 Volt reference for the circuit is
derived from the Protect circuitry. A comparator in IC5A01 compares a
sample of the voltage from the emitter of Q5A08 to the reference. The
output of the comparator controls the conduction of Q5A08 to maintain a
constant 12 volts.

Note that the 12 Volts supply is routed through the DK (HV Block)
connector to pin 9 of IC5A00. This removes HV drive if the DK connector
is unplugged, protecting the circuitry from excess HV. If the 24 Volt
supply is lost, the immediate symptom is no HV. The 24 Volt supply also
supplies power for the Vertical and Convergence Output ICs. A defect in
either of these circuits can blow the 24V Supply fuse, F9A04, and the
symptom appears as no HV.

Before spending time troubleshooting a no HV problem, we suggest
checking the 24 Volt supply to make sure it is not a Vertical or
Convergence Problem.

Troubleshooting the Switching Mode Regulators in the V17 is similar to
that in previous models.
Dead Regulator

1) Check for DC (170V) at Drain pin of the IC.
2) Check for Startup voltage at the VIN input of the IC, it takes 16
Volts to start the oscillator.

Dead Regulator (may have a Clicking Sound)
OVP may have shut down the oscillator. When this occurs, the oscillator
will not start again until the voltage at the OVP input drops below 6
Volts. This usually occurs in just a few seconds. Before condemning the
IC, measure the voltage at the OVP input, if it is 6 Volts or higher,
try resetting the circuit.

To reset the circuitry:
1) Remove AC power from the set.
2) Use a 100 Ohm resistor to discharge the capacitor at the VIN input.
C9A23 for IC9A20, and C9A51 for IC9A50.
3) Reconnect the AC power, the problem may be solved.

Regulator Cycles On and Off
1) Additional DC voltage to maintain oscillation may be missing.
2) Check the additional DC source, D9A22 for IC9A20 and D9A54 for
IC9A50.

***No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound ***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).

To help isolate the problem, a 60W lamp can be used to replace the 110V
load.

We heard a couple times a "chirp" I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen

Glen wrote:
I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: snip
I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen

Start at the red picture tube, verify filament and main bias voltages,
then work your way back to the red drive from the video circuit looking
at the waveforms on the oscilloscope.

Do a good inspection for any signs of leaking capacitors or leaking
coolant while you are in the set as well.

Glen wrote:
I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: 2 or 3 times we did hear a
"chirp" as quoted from the manual below.

CRT Filament Supply
The CRT Filament supply is not generated by either Switch Mode
Regulator. It is generated in the collector circuit of the Horizontal
Output transistor, Q5A31, as shown in Figure 3-5. The horizontal drive
signal induced in the secondary winding of T5A31 is rectified by D5A33,
and regulated by Q5A36, using IC5A05 as the reference.

HV Circuit 12 Volt Supply
It was stated that the 12 Volt supply for the HV Drive circuitry
(IC5A00) was derived from the +24 Volt supply. Figure 3-6 shows this
circuit in more detail. The 10 Volt reference for the circuit is
derived from the Protect circuitry. A comparator in IC5A01 compares a
sample of the voltage from the emitter of Q5A08 to the reference. The
output of the comparator controls the conduction of Q5A08 to maintain a
constant 12 volts.

Note that the 12 Volts supply is routed through the DK (HV Block)
connector to pin 9 of IC5A00. This removes HV drive if the DK connector
is unplugged, protecting the circuitry from excess HV. If the 24 Volt
supply is lost, the immediate symptom is no HV. The 24 Volt supply also
supplies power for the Vertical and Convergence Output ICs. A defect in
either of these circuits can blow the 24V Supply fuse, F9A04, and the
symptom appears as no HV.

Before spending time troubleshooting a no HV problem, we suggest
checking the 24 Volt supply to make sure it is not a Vertical or
Convergence Problem.

Troubleshooting the Switching Mode Regulators in the V17 is similar to
that in previous models.
Dead Regulator

1) Check for DC (170V) at Drain pin of the IC.
2) Check for Startup voltage at the VIN input of the IC, it takes 16
Volts to start the oscillator.

Dead Regulator (may have a Clicking Sound)
OVP may have shut down the oscillator. When this occurs, the oscillator
will not start again until the voltage at the OVP input drops below 6
Volts. This usually occurs in just a few seconds. Before condemning the
IC, measure the voltage at the OVP input, if it is 6 Volts or higher,
try resetting the circuit.

To reset the circuitry:
1) Remove AC power from the set.
2) Use a 100 Ohm resistor to discharge the capacitor at the VIN input.
C9A23 for IC9A20, and C9A51 for IC9A50.
3) Reconnect the AC power, the problem may be solved.

Regulator Cycles On and Off
1) Additional DC voltage to maintain oscillation may be missing.
2) Check the additional DC source, D9A22 for IC9A20 and D9A54 for
IC9A50.

***No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound ***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).

To help isolate the problem, a 60W lamp can be used to replace the 110V
load.

We heard a couple times a "chirp" I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen

Take off the front panel speaker grill jut pulls off then the
cardboard cover in a darkened room check for filiment on the read tube
FAR LEFT TUBE. Chanmces are if you have filiment on the othe tube and
not he read tube there is NOTHING wrong with your supplies/ Try
whiggling the read crt board around , and see if filiment will come back
on , if it is not there.. If it is there and still have no read the,
replace the video amp ic on the crt board i think it is a TDA 6111
Good Luck

David,

I checked:
*Red tube filament is on. (all are) Only blue & green guns are
shooting.
*Board is warm like the rest. (ceramic resistors)
*Red - Board is secure.

Video amp for this TV is a TDA 8177 $4.95 online.

Quoted from manual********
No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).
*********************
We heard a few beeps over the last week... could have been a "chirp"
which is the HV control? Athough why would only red go out???

Also think of any IC that may have overheated since this unit assembled
in Mexico had poor installation of thermal grease on the STK's that
failed... - grease on board not heatsink -

Thoughts - Glen


David Naylor wrote:



Take off the front panel speaker grill jut pulls off then the
cardboard cover in a darkened room check for filiment on the read tube
FAR LEFT TUBE. Chanmces are if you have filiment on the othe tube and
not he read tube there is NOTHING wrong with your supplies/ Try
whiggling the read crt board around , and see if filiment will come back
on , if it is not there.. If it is there and still have no read the,
replace the video amp ic on the crt board i think it is a TDA 6111
Good Luck

By the way.... I really don't care if I have to spend $50 - 75 on IC's
if I can identify them go in and replace in one step... I just hate
replacing one .. then the next etc.. So as long as i can have the most
common failures on hand it is worth a shot - Thanks - Glen
Glen wrote:
David,

I checked:
*Red tube filament is on. (all are) Only blue & green guns are
shooting.
*Board is warm like the rest. (ceramic resistors)
*Red - Board is secure.

Video amp for this TV is a TDA 8177 $4.95 online.

Quoted from manual********
No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).
*********************
We heard a few beeps over the last week... could have been a "chirp"
which is the HV control? Athough why would only red go out???

Also think of any IC that may have overheated since this unit assembled
in Mexico had poor installation of thermal grease on the STK's that
failed... - grease on board not heatsink -

Thoughts - Glen


David Naylor wrote:



Take off the front panel speaker grill jut pulls off then the
cardboard cover in a darkened room check for filiment on the read tube
FAR LEFT TUBE. Chanmces are if you have filiment on the othe tube and
not he read tube there is NOTHING wrong with your supplies/ Try
whiggling the read crt board around , and see if filiment will come back
on , if it is not there.. If it is there and still have no read the,
replace the video amp ic on the crt board i think it is a TDA 6111
Good Luck

David Naylor wrote:
Glen wrote:

I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: 2 or 3 times we did hear a
"chirp" as quoted from the manual below.

CRT Filament Supply
The CRT Filament supply is not generated by either Switch Mode
Regulator. It is generated in the collector circuit of the Horizontal
Output transistor, Q5A31, as shown in Figure 3-5. The horizontal drive
signal induced in the secondary winding of T5A31 is rectified by D5A33,
and regulated by Q5A36, using IC5A05 as the reference.

HV Circuit 12 Volt Supply
It was stated that the 12 Volt supply for the HV Drive circuitry
(IC5A00) was derived from the +24 Volt supply. Figure 3-6 shows this
circuit in more detail. The 10 Volt reference for the circuit is
derived from the Protect circuitry. A comparator in IC5A01 compares a
sample of the voltage from the emitter of Q5A08 to the reference. The
output of the comparator controls the conduction of Q5A08 to maintain a
constant 12 volts.

Note that the 12 Volts supply is routed through the DK (HV Block)
connector to pin 9 of IC5A00. This removes HV drive if the DK connector
is unplugged, protecting the circuitry from excess HV. If the 24 Volt
supply is lost, the immediate symptom is no HV. The 24 Volt supply also
supplies power for the Vertical and Convergence Output ICs. A defect in
either of these circuits can blow the 24V Supply fuse, F9A04, and the
symptom appears as no HV.

Before spending time troubleshooting a no HV problem, we suggest
checking the 24 Volt supply to make sure it is not a Vertical or
Convergence Problem.

Troubleshooting the Switching Mode Regulators in the V17 is similar to
that in previous models.
Dead Regulator

1) Check for DC (170V) at Drain pin of the IC.
2) Check for Startup voltage at the VIN input of the IC, it takes 16
Volts to start the oscillator.

Dead Regulator (may have a Clicking Sound)
OVP may have shut down the oscillator. When this occurs, the oscillator
will not start again until the voltage at the OVP input drops below 6
Volts. This usually occurs in just a few seconds. Before condemning the
IC, measure the voltage at the OVP input, if it is 6 Volts or higher,
try resetting the circuit.

To reset the circuitry:
1) Remove AC power from the set.
2) Use a 100 Ohm resistor to discharge the capacitor at the VIN input.
C9A23 for IC9A20, and C9A51 for IC9A50.
3) Reconnect the AC power, the problem may be solved.

Regulator Cycles On and Off
1) Additional DC voltage to maintain oscillation may be missing.
2) Check the additional DC source, D9A22 for IC9A20 and D9A54 for
IC9A50.

***No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound ***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).

To help isolate the problem, a 60W lamp can be used to replace the 110V
load.

We heard a couple times a "chirp" I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen

Take off the front panel speaker grill jut pulls off then the
cardboard cover in a darkened room check for filiment on the read tube
FAR LEFT TUBE. Chanmces are if you have filiment on the othe tube and
not he read tube there is NOTHING wrong with your supplies/ Try
whiggling the read crt board around , and see if filiment will come back
on , if it is not there.. If it is there and still have no read the,
replace the video amp ic on the crt board i think it is a TDA 6111
Good Luck
ok try this . if you have a dvm then pull off the read crt board and
set it up so you can find the k on the crt socket. find a good ground on
the chassic tunner is good turn on the set and check the voltage at k
on the crt socket i t should be around 135 to 140 if it is higher then
the tube is going into saturation tell ing me that your amp is working.
if it is low like around 35 to 40 volt then the amp is dead. Next find
your g2 on the crt socket it should read around 185 to 200 or so if not
then your splitter is bad or unplugged

David Naylor wrote:
David Naylor wrote:
Glen wrote:

I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: 2 or 3 times we did hear a
"chirp" as quoted from the manual below.

CRT Filament Supply
The CRT Filament supply is not generated by either Switch Mode
Regulator. It is generated in the collector circuit of the Horizontal
Output transistor, Q5A31, as shown in Figure 3-5. The horizontal drive
signal induced in the secondary winding of T5A31 is rectified by D5A33,
and regulated by Q5A36, using IC5A05 as the reference.

HV Circuit 12 Volt Supply
It was stated that the 12 Volt supply for the HV Drive circuitry
(IC5A00) was derived from the +24 Volt supply. Figure 3-6 shows this
circuit in more detail. The 10 Volt reference for the circuit is
derived from the Protect circuitry. A comparator in IC5A01 compares a
sample of the voltage from the emitter of Q5A08 to the reference. The
output of the comparator controls the conduction of Q5A08 to maintain a
constant 12 volts.

Note that the 12 Volts supply is routed through the DK (HV Block)
connector to pin 9 of IC5A00. This removes HV drive if the DK connector
is unplugged, protecting the circuitry from excess HV. If the 24 Volt
supply is lost, the immediate symptom is no HV. The 24 Volt supply also
supplies power for the Vertical and Convergence Output ICs. A defect in
either of these circuits can blow the 24V Supply fuse, F9A04, and the
symptom appears as no HV.

Before spending time troubleshooting a no HV problem, we suggest
checking the 24 Volt supply to make sure it is not a Vertical or
Convergence Problem.

Troubleshooting the Switching Mode Regulators in the V17 is similar to
that in previous models.
Dead Regulator

1) Check for DC (170V) at Drain pin of the IC.
2) Check for Startup voltage at the VIN input of the IC, it takes 16
Volts to start the oscillator.

Dead Regulator (may have a Clicking Sound)
OVP may have shut down the oscillator. When this occurs, the oscillator
will not start again until the voltage at the OVP input drops below 6
Volts. This usually occurs in just a few seconds. Before condemning the
IC, measure the voltage at the OVP input, if it is 6 Volts or higher,
try resetting the circuit.

To reset the circuitry:
1) Remove AC power from the set.
2) Use a 100 Ohm resistor to discharge the capacitor at the VIN input.
C9A23 for IC9A20, and C9A51 for IC9A50.
3) Reconnect the AC power, the problem may be solved.

Regulator Cycles On and Off
1) Additional DC voltage to maintain oscillation may be missing.
2) Check the additional DC source, D9A22 for IC9A20 and D9A54 for
IC9A50.

***No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound ***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).

To help isolate the problem, a 60W lamp can be used to replace the 110V
load.

We heard a couple times a "chirp" I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen

Take off the front panel speaker grill jut pulls off then the
cardboard cover in a darkened room check for filiment on the read tube
FAR LEFT TUBE. Chanmces are if you have filiment on the othe tube and
not he read tube there is NOTHING wrong with your supplies/ Try
whiggling the read crt board around , and see if filiment will come back
on , if it is not there.. If it is there and still have no read the,
replace the video amp ic on the crt board i think it is a TDA 6111
Good Luck
ok try this . if you have a dvm then pull off the read crt board and
set it up so you can find the k on the crt socket. find a good ground on
the chassic tunner is good turn on the set and check the voltage at k
on the crt socket i t should be around 135 to 140 if it is higher then
the tube is going into saturation tell ing me that your amp is working.
if it is low like around 35 to 40 volt then the amp is dead. Next find
your g2 on the crt socket it should read around 185 to 200 or so if not
then your splitter is bad or unplugged

David,

Gun CRT checks
Red K to Gnd 141-145V
Red G2 to Gnd 18V

Blue K to Gnd 82 - 120V
Blue G2 to Gnd 20V

Note I used the socket (solder) ground on the CRT boards with the DVM.

Please describe what you mean by "splitter"?

To the touch all resistors on all CRT boards are warm as well as the IC
on the heatsinks are about 130F +/-

When the problem first showed up we had a "red" saturation on warm up.
As well as the "chirp" I mentioned.

Thoughts? - Thanks - Glen

Glen wrote:
David Naylor wrote:
David Naylor wrote:
Glen wrote:

I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: 2 or 3 times we did hear a
"chirp" as quoted from the manual below.

CRT Filament Supply
The CRT Filament supply is not generated by either Switch Mode
Regulator. It is generated in the collector circuit of the Horizontal
Output transistor, Q5A31, as shown in Figure 3-5. The horizontal drive
signal induced in the secondary winding of T5A31 is rectified by D5A33,
and regulated by Q5A36, using IC5A05 as the reference.

HV Circuit 12 Volt Supply
It was stated that the 12 Volt supply for the HV Drive circuitry
(IC5A00) was derived from the +24 Volt supply. Figure 3-6 shows this
circuit in more detail. The 10 Volt reference for the circuit is
derived from the Protect circuitry. A comparator in IC5A01 compares a
sample of the voltage from the emitter of Q5A08 to the reference. The
output of the comparator controls the conduction of Q5A08 to maintain a
constant 12 volts.

Note that the 12 Volts supply is routed through the DK (HV Block)
connector to pin 9 of IC5A00. This removes HV drive if the DK connector
is unplugged, protecting the circuitry from excess HV. If the 24 Volt
supply is lost, the immediate symptom is no HV. The 24 Volt supply also
supplies power for the Vertical and Convergence Output ICs. A defect in
either of these circuits can blow the 24V Supply fuse, F9A04, and the
symptom appears as no HV.

Before spending time troubleshooting a no HV problem, we suggest
checking the 24 Volt supply to make sure it is not a Vertical or
Convergence Problem.

Troubleshooting the Switching Mode Regulators in the V17 is similar to
that in previous models.
Dead Regulator

1) Check for DC (170V) at Drain pin of the IC.
2) Check for Startup voltage at the VIN input of the IC, it takes 16
Volts to start the oscillator.

Dead Regulator (may have a Clicking Sound)
OVP may have shut down the oscillator. When this occurs, the oscillator
will not start again until the voltage at the OVP input drops below 6
Volts. This usually occurs in just a few seconds. Before condemning the
IC, measure the voltage at the OVP input, if it is 6 Volts or higher,
try resetting the circuit.

To reset the circuitry:
1) Remove AC power from the set.
2) Use a 100 Ohm resistor to discharge the capacitor at the VIN input.
C9A23 for IC9A20, and C9A51 for IC9A50.
3) Reconnect the AC power, the problem may be solved.

Regulator Cycles On and Off
1) Additional DC voltage to maintain oscillation may be missing.
2) Check the additional DC source, D9A22 for IC9A20 and D9A54 for
IC9A50.

***No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound ***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).

To help isolate the problem, a 60W lamp can be used to replace the 110V
load.

We heard a couple times a "chirp" I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen

Take off the front panel speaker grill jut pulls off then the
cardboard cover in a darkened room check for filiment on the read tube
FAR LEFT TUBE. Chanmces are if you have filiment on the othe tube and
not he read tube there is NOTHING wrong with your supplies/ Try
whiggling the read crt board around , and see if filiment will come back
on , if it is not there.. If it is there and still have no read the,
replace the video amp ic on the crt board i think it is a TDA 6111
Good Luck
ok try this . if you have a dvm then pull off the read crt board and
set it up so you can find the k on the crt socket. find a good ground on
the chassic tunner is good turn on the set and check the voltage at k
on the crt socket i t should be around 135 to 140 if it is higher then
the tube is going into saturation tell ing me that your amp is working.
if it is low like around 35 to 40 volt then the amp is dead. Next find
your g2 on the crt socket it should read around 185 to 200 or so if not
then your splitter is bad or unplugged

David,

Gun CRT checks
Red K to Gnd 141-145V
Red G2 to Gnd 18V

Blue K to Gnd 82 - 120V
Blue G2 to Gnd 20V

Note I used the socket (solder) ground on the CRT boards with the DVM.

Please describe what you mean by "splitter"?

To the touch all resistors on all CRT boards are warm as well as the IC
on the heatsinks are about 130F +/-

When the problem first showed up we had a "red" saturation on warm up.
As well as the "chirp" I mentioned.

Thoughts? - Thanks - Glen

Update... There appears to be about 5% intensity of red. Wher Blue &
green have a full intensity looking below the lens. There is a red hue
even when light thru the lens is blocked. Initially I thought the red
was room light back into the unit.

Thoughts? Thanks - Glen

Glen wrote:
Glen wrote:
David Naylor wrote:
David Naylor wrote:
Glen wrote:

I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: 2 or 3 times we did hear a
"chirp" as quoted from the manual below.

CRT Filament Supply
The CRT Filament supply is not generated by either Switch Mode
Regulator. It is generated in the collector circuit of the Horizontal
Output transistor, Q5A31, as shown in Figure 3-5. The horizontal drive
signal induced in the secondary winding of T5A31 is rectified by D5A33,
and regulated by Q5A36, using IC5A05 as the reference.

HV Circuit 12 Volt Supply
It was stated that the 12 Volt supply for the HV Drive circuitry
(IC5A00) was derived from the +24 Volt supply. Figure 3-6 shows this
circuit in more detail. The 10 Volt reference for the circuit is
derived from the Protect circuitry. A comparator in IC5A01 compares a
sample of the voltage from the emitter of Q5A08 to the reference. The
output of the comparator controls the conduction of Q5A08 to maintain a
constant 12 volts.

Note that the 12 Volts supply is routed through the DK (HV Block)
connector to pin 9 of IC5A00. This removes HV drive if the DK connector
is unplugged, protecting the circuitry from excess HV. If the 24 Volt
supply is lost, the immediate symptom is no HV. The 24 Volt supply also
supplies power for the Vertical and Convergence Output ICs. A defect in
either of these circuits can blow the 24V Supply fuse, F9A04, and the
symptom appears as no HV.

Before spending time troubleshooting a no HV problem, we suggest
checking the 24 Volt supply to make sure it is not a Vertical or
Convergence Problem.

Troubleshooting the Switching Mode Regulators in the V17 is similar to
that in previous models.
Dead Regulator

1) Check for DC (170V) at Drain pin of the IC.
2) Check for Startup voltage at the VIN input of the IC, it takes 16
Volts to start the oscillator.

Dead Regulator (may have a Clicking Sound)
OVP may have shut down the oscillator. When this occurs, the oscillator
will not start again until the voltage at the OVP input drops below 6
Volts. This usually occurs in just a few seconds. Before condemning the
IC, measure the voltage at the OVP input, if it is 6 Volts or higher,
try resetting the circuit.

To reset the circuitry:
1) Remove AC power from the set.
2) Use a 100 Ohm resistor to discharge the capacitor at the VIN input.
C9A23 for IC9A20, and C9A51 for IC9A50.
3) Reconnect the AC power, the problem may be solved.

Regulator Cycles On and Off
1) Additional DC voltage to maintain oscillation may be missing.
2) Check the additional DC source, D9A22 for IC9A20 and D9A54 for
IC9A50.

***No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound ***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).

To help isolate the problem, a 60W lamp can be used to replace the 110V
load.

We heard a couple times a "chirp" I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen

Take off the front panel speaker grill jut pulls off then the
cardboard cover in a darkened room check for filiment on the read tube
FAR LEFT TUBE. Chanmces are if you have filiment on the othe tube and
not he read tube there is NOTHING wrong with your supplies/ Try
whiggling the read crt board around , and see if filiment will come back
on , if it is not there.. If it is there and still have no read the,
replace the video amp ic on the crt board i think it is a TDA 6111
Good Luck
ok try this . if you have a dvm then pull off the read crt board and
set it up so you can find the k on the crt socket. find a good ground on
the chassic tunner is good turn on the set and check the voltage at k
on the crt socket i t should be around 135 to 140 if it is higher then
the tube is going into saturation tell ing me that your amp is working.
if it is low like around 35 to 40 volt then the amp is dead. Next find
your g2 on the crt socket it should read around 185 to 200 or so if not
then your splitter is bad or unplugged

David,

Gun CRT checks
Red K to Gnd 141-145V
Red G2 to Gnd 18V

Blue K to Gnd 82 - 120V
Blue G2 to Gnd 20V

Note I used the socket (solder) ground on the CRT boards with the DVM.

Please describe what you mean by "splitter"?

To the touch all resistors on all CRT boards are warm as well as the IC
on the heatsinks are about 130F +/-

When the problem first showed up we had a "red" saturation on warm up.
As well as the "chirp" I mentioned.

Thoughts? - Thanks - Glen

Update... There appears to be about 5% intensity of red. Wher Blue &
green have a full intensity looking below the lens. There is a red hue
even when light thru the lens is blocked. Initially I thought the red
was room light back into the unit.

Thoughts? Thanks - Glen
bump

Glen,

Had a similar problem with a techie overpricing. Ireported him to BBB
but they did nothing.

www.gamestotal.com
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On Sep 24, 9:37 am, "Glen" wrote:
I have a Mitsubishi WT 46807 wide screen HDTV - ready projection now
about 6 years old.
about 2 years ago I had a problem with the STK's and convergence.
initially I was able to clean the chassis and the problem went away for
a couple months (too much heat)
after consulting a repair tech. and looking at upwards of $500 I
decided to repair myself.
when I said that I might consider replacement he offered to take the
set off my hands but offered no $$
I found the 2 STK's he quoted at $75 for $8
Found the STK's were poorly heat sinked (grease on PCB not STK)
Replaced and worked fine until 2 weeks ago.

Current Problem:
Initially it appeared as a cold start on the RED gun.
Color would come in over 15 minutes. (warm up)
Now it looks like I have lost RED all together.
When I go into convergence I have only a blue adjust and cannot see any
RED hues.
I do have some of the manual quoted below: 2 or 3 times we did hear a
"chirp" as quoted from the manual below.

CRT Filament Supply
The CRT Filament supply is not generated by either Switch Mode
Regulator. It is generated in the collector circuit of the Horizontal
Output transistor, Q5A31, as shown in Figure 3-5. The horizontal drive
signal induced in the secondary winding of T5A31 is rectified by D5A33,
and regulated by Q5A36, using IC5A05 as the reference.

HV Circuit 12 Volt Supply
It was stated that the 12 Volt supply for the HV Drive circuitry
(IC5A00) was derived from the +24 Volt supply. Figure 3-6 shows this
circuit in more detail. The 10 Volt reference for the circuit is
derived from the Protect circuitry. A comparator in IC5A01 compares a
sample of the voltage from the emitter of Q5A08 to the reference. The
output of the comparator controls the conduction of Q5A08 to maintain a
constant 12 volts.

Note that the 12 Volts supply is routed through the DK (HV Block)
connector to pin 9 of IC5A00. This removes HV drive if the DK connector
is unplugged, protecting the circuitry from excess HV. If the 24 Volt
supply is lost, the immediate symptom is no HV. The 24 Volt supply also
supplies power for the Vertical and Convergence Output ICs. A defect in
either of these circuits can blow the 24V Supply fuse, F9A04, and the
symptom appears as no HV.

Before spending time troubleshooting a no HV problem, we suggest
checking the 24 Volt supply to make sure it is not a Vertical or
Convergence Problem.

Troubleshooting the Switching Mode Regulators in the V17 is similar to
that in previous models.
Dead Regulator

1) Check for DC (170V) at Drain pin of the IC.
2) Check for Startup voltage at the VIN input of the IC, it takes 16
Volts to start the oscillator.

Dead Regulator (may have a Clicking Sound)
OVP may have shut down the oscillator. When this occurs, the oscillator
will not start again until the voltage at the OVP input drops below 6
Volts. This usually occurs in just a few seconds. Before condemning the
IC, measure the voltage at the OVP input, if it is 6 Volts or higher,
try resetting the circuit.

To reset the circuitry:
1) Remove AC power from the set.
2) Use a 100 Ohm resistor to discharge the capacitor at the VIN input.
C9A23 for IC9A20, and C9A51 for IC9A50.
3) Reconnect the AC power, the problem may be solved.

Regulator Cycles On and Off
1) Additional DC voltage to maintain oscillation may be missing.
2) Check the additional DC source, D9A22 for IC9A20 and D9A54 for
IC9A50.

***No Regulator Output and a ***Chirping Sound ***
1) Usually indicates excessive load.
2) Check each of the secondary supplies for excessive current drain
(the 110V supply load is the most likely cause).

To help isolate the problem, a 60W lamp can be used to replace the 110V
load.

We heard a couple times a "chirp" I have some schematics but have not
fully explored...

Thoughts? Help? Thanks - Glen