I am about to replace the infinite switches for my Jenn-Air cooktop (
replace all four, including knobs). On eBay I see many different
models, including "universal" versions. Even the universal ones have
two different part numbers, e.g., 5500-202 and 5500-225. The electrical
specs both says 240V/15A and the pin out looked the same as my
originals. With the screw nut mounting kit, I think they will work in
my cooktop. Is there a problem with this plan? Note: exact OEM type
replacement part costs upwards of 30 bucks each. Since my cooktop is
already quite old, I can't see spending that much for a set. Thanks.

On 8 Dec 2005 11:04:47 -0800, wrote:

I am about to replace the infinite switches for my Jenn-Air cooktop (
replace all four, including knobs). On eBay I see many different
models, including "universal" versions. Even the universal ones have
two different part numbers, e.g., 5500-202 and 5500-225. The electrical
specs both says 240V/15A and the pin out looked the same as my
originals. With the screw nut mounting kit, I think they will work in
my cooktop. Is there a problem with this plan? Note: exact OEM type
replacement part costs upwards of 30 bucks each. Since my cooktop is
already quite old, I can't see spending that much for a set. Thanks.

I've been fixing my own range now for 20+ years and only repaired two
infinite switches (and one was a universal someone had installed
incorrectly - they used the pilot light contacts to switch the range
element).

They are easy to repair. Might take you all of a half hour the first
time as the parts tend to want to get away when you pop the cover off.

Use a small needle file, fingernail sander (those things women use -
don't know what to call it - thin piece of wood with sand adhered to
the surface) clean the contacts, put a touch of silicon grease on the
plastic cam and it will work like new for another 20 years. If you
use emery cloth, be careful to clean any particles off, emery is
conductive.

I have a Cashwell Appliance catalog and they list a lot of switches,
but no Jenn-Air. The two basic types of universal I see are
push-and-turn and turn type. Can you question the Ebay seller?

Universals start at about $13 in the catalog with some, specific ones
going for ~$35 (trade cost). They all look very similar and would
probably all work . . .

When they say universal, they mean it. The shaft length is adjustable
by breaking off sections and there's a series of round, half-round,
adapters that will slip over it - the basic shaft without adapters
works on GE Hotpoint Penncrest and others. There's also a plate that
allows the center nut to be used instead of two machine screws.

If you have the time and inclination, try resurfacing the contacts.

If there's a wholesaler/distributor of appliance parts where you live,
convince them you are a related business (like TV repair) and want to
start with appliances - convince them you deserve the wholesale price
and pick up four universals. That's how I got my catalog - needed an
oil burner ignition transformer and washing machine motor. Paid 1/3
retail for them. The people were knowledgeable and helpful too.

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default wrote:
Use a small needle file, fingernail sander (those things women use -
don't know what to call it - thin piece of wood with sand adhered to
the surface) clean the contacts,


They're called "emery boards"

On Fri, 09 Dec 2005 02:49:26 GMT, Jumpster Jiver
wrote:

default wrote:
Use a small needle file, fingernail sander (those things women use -
don't know what to call it - thin piece of wood with sand adhered to
the surface) clean the contacts,


They're called "emery boards"

That makes sense. Damn handy tool,
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I contacted the seller on eBay and got more info. Will probably order
that soon ($12.70 a piecee). BTW, I took one a apart a few months
ago ( a used one) and a couple of things popped off and dissappeared
.... needless to say, that one ended up in the trash :-)

On 9 Dec 2005 09:45:41 -0800, wrote:

I contacted the seller on eBay and got more info. Will probably order
that soon ($12.70 a piecee). BTW, I took one a apart a few months
ago ( a used one) and a couple of things popped off and dissappeared
... needless to say, that one ended up in the trash :-)

That's what happened my first time too. Fidgety little spring in
there wanted freedom in the worst way.

The switch is only about a "three" on the Chinese degree of
difficulty scale. (CDD "10" = only Chinese women with infinite
patience and very small hands can do it)
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Just for for an precaution in case I get my wire labels fall off, can
anyone point to website where there is a schematic on how to wire these
4 switches? I plan to do this one at a time, removing and replacing the
wire as I go. The terminals are P, L1, L2, H1, and H2. I think H1 and
H2 goes to the heating coils, L1 is one end of the 240VAC, and L2 is
the other half of the 240VAC, and P for the pilot light? Do I get that
right? TIA for your help.

On 11 Dec 2005 19:18:03 -0800, wrote:


Just for for an precaution in case I get my wire labels fall off, can
anyone point to website where there is a schematic on how to wire these
4 switches? I plan to do this one at a time, removing and replacing the
wire as I go. The terminals are P, L1, L2, H1, and H2. I think H1 and
H2 goes to the heating coils, L1 is one end of the 240VAC, and L2 is
the other half of the 240VAC, and P for the pilot light? Do I get that
right? TIA for your help.

That's right
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