In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas

"Dallas" wrote in message
news
In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so
I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch
work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas


Electrically conductive silver paint for repairing car windscreens has
served me well in the past, and it's readily available at car shops. It's
rather pricey but it does the job.

Eventually it may need recoating as it's not really intended to flex, but
even a small bottle would do hundreds of jobs in this application.

Dave

"Dave D" wrote in message
...



Electrically conductive silver paint for repairing car windscreens

Sorry, I meant for repairing rear window demister elements.

Dave

"Dave D"
Electrically conductive silver paint for repairing car windscreens
Sorry, I meant for repairing rear window demister elements.

Yeah, I've heard of that stuff... if I can't find the repair kit it sounds
like the second best option.


Dallas

There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
suppliers, who supply parts for TV and electronic device servicing.
Note that the cost is not cheap.

Jerry G.

--

"Jerry G." wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
suppliers, who supply parts for TV and electronic device servicing.
Note that the cost is not cheap.


I've also had some success with self adhesive aluminium tape. I cut it into
small squares and stick it over the faulty rubber pads. It usually works
great but like the silver paint job will not necessarily last for years.
Having said that, a roll of tape would do hundreds of remotes and it's
pretty cheap stuff. It has the advantage of flexiing with the pad, whereas
the silver paint may eventually wear out or crack..

Dave

"Dave D" wrote in message
...

"Jerry G." wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
suppliers, who supply parts for TV and electronic device servicing.
Note that the cost is not cheap.


I've also had some success with self adhesive aluminium tape. I cut it
into small squares and stick it over the faulty rubber pads. It usually
works great but like the silver paint job will not necessarily last for
years. Having said that, a roll of tape would do hundreds of remotes and
it's pretty cheap stuff. It has the advantage of flexiing with the pad,
whereas the silver paint may eventually wear out or crack..

Dave

I know that this is slightly off topic from what the poster was originally
asking, but I've had great success in the past, repairing conductive pad
type keymats, by carefully scalpelling off the worn out pad, doing the same
for a good pad from a scrap remote or telephone keypad, then supergluing the
' replacement ' onto the original mat. That way, you've got an almost
original pad, that feels original, and won't suffer from cracking like the
paint.

Arfa

"Jerry G."
There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
suppliers,

No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick Google
turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to this product?

Dallas

"Dallas" wrote in message
ink.net...
"Jerry G."
There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
suppliers,

No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick Google
turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to this product?

Dallas




Surf over to MCM Electronics at http://www.mcmelectronics.com/ and search
for part number CW2605. Circuit Works Rubber Keypad Repair Kit.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

DaveM wrote:
: "Dallas" wrote in message
: ink.net...
: : "Jerry G."
: : : There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
: : : conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic
: : : parts suppliers,
: :
: : No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick
: : Google turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to
: : this product?
: :
: : Dallas
: :
: :
:
:
: Surf over to MCM Electronics at http://www.mcmelectronics.com/ and
: search for part number CW2605. Circuit Works Rubber Keypad Repair
: Kit.
***

I have had great sucess super gluing a small circle of aluminum foil on
the defective rubber pad. If it's only 1 or 2 not working, it is a
quick job and a cheap solution.

Larry

Dallas wrote:
"Jerry G."
There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
suppliers,

No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick Google
turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to this product?

Dallas

I use a German product called 'Leitsilber' , silver conductive paint,
bought in electronics suppliers. pricey but has done many a remote for
me.
-B.

Jerry G. wrote:
There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
suppliers, who supply parts for TV and electronic device servicing.
Note that the cost is not cheap.


Tried one of those on a JVC remote about a year ago, cost around $15
for the repair kit. Two-part epoxy kind of thing, had to mix it and use
it
within 15 or 20 minutes, throw out whatever was left over.

Remote worked great for 2 or 3 months, then the repair gunk started
wearing off, and I was back where I started. Ended up ordering a
replacement remote from JVC website, cost around $20 with shipping,
and it's still working fine.

If I got a do-over, I would just order the new remote and forget about
the repair kit. Might think differently if the new remote had been
more
expensive. YMMV.

If the OP wants to check into the repair kits, I bought mine at Circuit
Specialists in Mesa, AZ (local to me) (www.circuitspecialists.com).

Hope this helps,
Jerry

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:10:59 GMT, "Dallas"
wrote:

In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas


ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Most of the ones I come into contact with show oil (for lack of a
better descriptor) on the pads used frequently. The oil must be in
the pads themselves . . . from what I see. The center PB will have
oil and none to either side (on some). I don't believe it migrates.

This 'oil" seems to insulate the switch contacts. and appears on the
frequently used switches.

My cure has been isopropyl alcohol with a swab to the pad and paper
towel (toilet paper or napkin) to the board That fixes it like new
for about a month . . .

Aluminum foil with a thin (VERY THIN) RTV coating seems to work
longer but still not as long as the original pad coatings.

Only 100% fix seems to be replacing the key pad with a tiny surface
mount switch - - - if you can solder it, or see well enough . . .

--

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default wrote:
On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:10:59 GMT, "Dallas"
wrote:


In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas



ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Most of the ones I come into contact with show oil (for lack of a
better descriptor) on the pads used frequently. The oil must be in
the pads themselves . . . from what I see. The center PB will have
oil and none to either side (on some). I don't believe it migrates.

This 'oil" seems to insulate the switch contacts. and appears on the
frequently used switches.

My cure has been isopropyl alcohol with a swab to the pad and paper
towel (toilet paper or napkin) to the board That fixes it like new
for about a month . . .

Aluminum foil with a thin (VERY THIN) RTV coating seems to work
longer but still not as long as the original pad coatings.

Only 100% fix seems to be replacing the key pad with a tiny surface
mount switch - - - if you can solder it, or see well enough . . .


Hi...

I wonder how dag would do? (aquadag)

www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf

Take care.

Ken

On Sat, 03 Dec 2005 00:55:39 GMT, Ken Weitzel
wrote:

Hi...

I wonder how dag would do? (aquadag)

www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf

Take care.

Ken

I don't have any. Most of the aquadag I've seen is fairly brittle and
not very flexible.

Do you use the liquid?
--

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Well, as an amateur, here is what I have found works.

1. The oil, as you call it, is from the human body. i.e. fingers. The best
way to remove it is to use rubbing alcohol.
2. The longest lasting thing I have found to fix "worn out buttons" is to
clean the pad with alcohol and then put a dap of contact cement or rubber
cement on the pad. Then put down a little circle or square of standard old
kitchen aluminum foil. Press and hold the foil to the button for a couple of
minutes and then reassemble the remote. Its been working for me for about
three years on the garage remote that gets used 3 or 4 times a week.....

Just my two cents...

bob in phx.
"default" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:10:59 GMT, "Dallas"
wrote:

In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so
I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch
work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas


ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Most of the ones I come into contact with show oil (for lack of a
better descriptor) on the pads used frequently. The oil must be in
the pads themselves . . . from what I see. The center PB will have
oil and none to either side (on some). I don't believe it migrates.

This 'oil" seems to insulate the switch contacts. and appears on the
frequently used switches.

My cure has been isopropyl alcohol with a swab to the pad and paper
towel (toilet paper or napkin) to the board That fixes it like new
for about a month . . .

Aluminum foil with a thin (VERY THIN) RTV coating seems to work
longer but still not as long as the original pad coatings.

Only 100% fix seems to be replacing the key pad with a tiny surface
mount switch - - - if you can solder it, or see well enough . . .

--

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
=----

Bob in Phx wrote:
Well, as an amateur, here is what I have found works.

1. The oil, as you call it, is from the human body. i.e. fingers. The best
way to remove it is to use rubbing alcohol.
2. The longest lasting thing I have found to fix "worn out buttons" is to
clean the pad with alcohol and then put a dap of contact cement or rubber
cement on the pad. Then put down a little circle or square of standard old
kitchen aluminum foil. Press and hold the foil to the button for a couple of
minutes and then reassemble the remote. Its been working for me for about
three years on the garage remote that gets used 3 or 4 times a week.....



Simple Green works very well too, sucks the oil right out of your hands too.

On Fri, 2 Dec 2005 20:45:51 -0700, "Bob in Phx"
wrote:

1. The oil, as you call it, is from the human body. i.e. fingers. The best
way to remove it is to use rubbing alcohol.
2. The longest lasting thing I have found to fix "worn out buttons" is to
clean the pad with alcohol and then put a dap of contact cement or rubber
cement on the pad. Then put down a little circle or square of standard old
kitchen aluminum foil. Press and hold the foil to the button for a couple of
minutes and then reassemble the remote. Its been working for me for about
three years on the garage remote that gets used 3 or 4 times a week.....

Body oil was my first guess too. But it would have to migrate through
the silicon membrane to get to the pads, so I ruled that out as being
unlikely.

But that does call to mind an experiment to prove/disprove the oil
theory. I just cleaned my own remote and its working 100% with just a
light press on the keys. I plan to wrap the remote pad in metalized
polyester to see if that acts as a barrier.

I'll have to try the contact cement, the RTV wasn't lasting very long.

Thanks for the input
--

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On Sat, 03 Dec 2005 09:46:38 -0500, default wrote:

But that does call to mind an experiment to prove/disprove the oil
theory. I just cleaned my own remote and its working 100% with just a
light press on the keys. I plan to wrap the remote pad in metalized
polyester to see if that acts as a barrier.

Bad idea . . . remote is taking more pressure this morning, so if it
is migrating through the membrane it is filling the membrane so my
experiment won't prove anything.

But that suggests a second experiment: soaking the keypad in hot dish
detergent over night.
--

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A few times i have taken a small piece of wire bent it like a very small
staple and pushed it into the rubber over the worn pad .

Bob in Phx wrote:

Well, as an amateur, here is what I have found works.

1. The oil, as you call it, is from the human body. i.e. fingers. The best
way to remove it is to use rubbing alcohol.
2. The longest lasting thing I have found to fix "worn out buttons" is to
clean the pad with alcohol and then put a dap of contact cement or rubber
cement on the pad. Then put down a little circle or square of standard old
kitchen aluminum foil. Press and hold the foil to the button for a couple of
minutes and then reassemble the remote. Its been working for me for about
three years on the garage remote that gets used 3 or 4 times a week.....

Just my two cents...

bob in phx.
"default" wrote in message
...

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:10:59 GMT, "Dallas"
wrote:


In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so
I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch
work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas


ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Most of the ones I come into contact with show oil (for lack of a
better descriptor) on the pads used frequently. The oil must be in
the pads themselves . . . from what I see. The center PB will have
oil and none to either side (on some). I don't believe it migrates.

This 'oil" seems to insulate the switch contacts. and appears on the
frequently used switches.

My cure has been isopropyl alcohol with a swab to the pad and paper
towel (toilet paper or napkin) to the board That fixes it like new
for about a month . . .

Aluminum foil with a thin (VERY THIN) RTV coating seems to work
longer but still not as long as the original pad coatings.

Only 100% fix seems to be replacing the key pad with a tiny surface
mount switch - - - if you can solder it, or see well enough . . .

--

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
=----



i find that the repair kit sold in many places to fix the
heater tape connections on your defroster work well.
an applicable conductive brush on that is highly conductive with
most likely copper in it..
dries in a short time.


--
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

[quote=default]On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:10:59 GMT, "Dallas"
wrote:

In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas


ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

I have two thoughts on this :
The first being that it might be posssible for contaminants to have gotten to the mating surfaces as mentioned. I sometimes also have to clean a pad of what seems to be have been a migration to its surface from within the "vinyl" body. It seems to be worse if environmentally exposed to a higher temp, naturally. I also do a cleaning with ethylene alcohol but only in a non agressive action, such as to permit a degreasing action only, with no further deteriortion of the conductive agent on the pad.
The other, and most common problem, actually is that there is no contaminant present, but merely a shiny surface / sheen present on a pad surface due to massive usage. If that proves to be the case I DO NOT clean the pad initially but get it out where it can be turned for observation .The idea is for the light from a lamp source in front of you to shine towards the shiny pads surface and then reflect off it towards your eyes. Then you use one of the pencil/stick style of typewriter erasers made by Eberhard Faber, (or others) and sharpen it to a quasi rounded point and buff it to a rounded dome shape on clean demin and then EVER so lightly, erase the shine from the conductive pads top surface, just enough to acquire a a matte surface. As when observed with the referenced, reflected light source. Then, lastly, you ever so slightly solvent clean that new surface.
I have also tried copper foil, aluminun foil, resurfacing with both their attached adhesives ....BAAAd..........as well as additional adhesive types...contact cement...gluper sue......RTV....Pliobond....the last, the best, but still not up to perfection. I will pass on all of their performances/ reliabilities.
The best thing used yet is some colloidial graphite solution that is used for making an aquadag grounding coating for picture tubes. It is good enough in its tenacity and sticking action as to be applied to a SLICK glass surface of a picture tube and stay with it for 20-30 years+. I just degrease the pads surfaces and use a Q-tip to put a drop topside and then let it dry hard. Then the fix is done.
Lastly, if perchance, your referenced "Dallas" is coincident with your location, I can provide you with a bit of same coating.
73's de Edd

"Edd Whatley"
The best thing used yet is some colloidial graphite solution that is
used for making an aquadag grounding coating for picture tubes.

Hey Edd, I'm going to need to have a backup on this repair in case it goes
south. Is the material Ken Weitzel referenced the same material you're
talking about?

http://www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf


Dallas

(both moniker and my location)

Hey Edd, I'm going to need to have a backup on this repair in case it goes
south. Is the material Ken Weitzel referenced the same material you're
talking about?

http://www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf


Dallas

(both moniker and my location)[/quote]
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Roger Roger... one and the same ,I got mine from the collection vat that was in the spray room where they coated the tubes. It was from a local tube rebuild plant . If you will send me a mailing adee, I will triple ultrasonically seal a 6 mil pouch of it for placement in a bubble wrap to mail to you.
I am contactable as .
eddwhatley(insert at logo)yahoo.com

73's de Edd

(Lucky I even caught you, as I saw a mirror posting on epanorama site.)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"default"
ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Update on my repair adventures today:

First this is not a remote control, it's a $ 1200.00 medical device I'm
fixing for my neighbor. They won't send you a keypad because they don't do
parts. Accessing the keypad takes about 7 screws and 3 minutes. They want
the patient to rent one and send the broken unit to them to fix for hundreds
of dollars. *******s.

The first attempt was using the Window Defogger repair paint. I could not
get the silver paint that I've heard about, instead Permatex sells a new kit
called "Complete Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit". Long story short, that
paint actually flaked off the surface with no effort.

Next, I tried to stick a tab of adhesive aluminum duct tape to the pad but
the area is too small to hold the tape. Next I tried to glue the piece of
aluminum duct tape with E6000. No way... pops right off the surface.

Then I tried aluminum duct tape using super glue and it adhered nicely. I
think the key here is that the vinyl pad won't hold paint or contact
cements, they peel right off. I think the solvent in the super glue etches
the vinyl and makes a very nice adhesion. So far so good.

I'm guessing the aluminum duct tape is a better choice than aluminum foil
because of its increased thickness.

Anyway, God Bless Usenet, I can't even remember how many times it's provided
answers that would have been impossible to get before the Internet.

Thanks

Dallas

"Dallas" wrote in message
k.net...

"default"
ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Update on my repair adventures today:

First this is not a remote control, it's a $ 1200.00 medical device I'm
fixing for my neighbor. They won't send you a keypad because they don't
do
parts. Accessing the keypad takes about 7 screws and 3 minutes. They
want
the patient to rent one and send the broken unit to them to fix for
hundreds
of dollars. *******s.

The first attempt was using the Window Defogger repair paint. I could not
get the silver paint that I've heard about, instead Permatex sells a new
kit
called "Complete Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit". Long story short, that
paint actually flaked off the surface with no effort.

Next, I tried to stick a tab of adhesive aluminum duct tape to the pad but
the area is too small to hold the tape. Next I tried to glue the piece of
aluminum duct tape with E6000. No way... pops right off the surface.

Then I tried aluminum duct tape using super glue and it adhered nicely. I
think the key here is that the vinyl pad won't hold paint or contact
cements, they peel right off. I think the solvent in the super glue
etches
the vinyl and makes a very nice adhesion. So far so good.

I'm guessing the aluminum duct tape is a better choice than aluminum foil
because of its increased thickness.

Anyway, God Bless Usenet, I can't even remember how many times it's
provided
answers that would have been impossible to get before the Internet.

Thanks

Dallas


Have you tried my pad substitution method detailed some distance further up
the thread ? Works well for me ...

Arfa

"Arfa Daily"
Have you tried my pad substitution method detailed some distance further
up
the thread ? Works well for me ...

I was strongly considering it especially since I've got half a dozen old
dead remotes in the attic I could scavenge. But, I was afraid that the
super glue wouldn't adhere the two and I would be left with a shorter keypad
pad. But, now I know that super glue does work so if I have to redo it will
be high on my list of options.

Dallas

"Dallas" wrote in message
news
In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so
I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch
work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas



If the hardware store aluminum tape doesn't work for ya, you might try
self-adhesive aluminum sheets (sometimes sold as mirrored mylar) which can
be found at hobby shops that concentrate on model kits, scale trains or RC
aircraft. These sheets are available in very thin, highly-flexible
versions -- they can be burnished right over fine aircraft details like
rivets.

Dallas wrote:
Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Go to sci.electronics.repair and you'll get some info from the pro repair
folks - name it, and someone's done it, fixed it, or will have a link!!

CRaSH wrote:
Dallas wrote:
Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Go to sci.electronics.repair and you'll get some info from the pro
repair folks - name it, and someone's done it, fixed it, or will have
a link!!

Never mind, just noticed that's where you're at - assuming this is the same
Dallas as at AGMFS.. :-)

"CRaSH"
Never mind, just noticed that's where you're at - assuming this is the
same
Dallas as at AGMFS.. :-)

Yo CRaSH... waddya drinkin' them Old Fashions with a cherry again?

What are you doing over here?... Never mind, it's completely logical given
your test bench.

Hey, this is a fascinating group... I'm glad I found my way here, I've
already found all kinds of interesting little tidbits in other threads. In
case you didn't know, in my neighborhood I'm known as the guy who can fix
stuff that every other repair guy considers hopeless.

I'm pressing the subscribe button on this group.

Dallas

"CRaSH" bravely wrote to "All" (03 Dec 05 07:52:41)
--- on the heady topic of " Electrically conductive paint?"

CR From: "CRaSH"
CR Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:350252

CR Dallas wrote:
Does anyone know where to get something like that?


CR Go to sci.electronics.repair and you'll get some info from the pro
CR repair folks - name it, and someone's done it, fixed it, or will have
CR a link!!


If you have some Sheffield "Metalic Leaf Finish" around, either the
gold or silver, it is conductive. It costs about $7 for a 55 ml jar.
You can find it in most paint or hardware stores, etc. Some Testors
paints are also conductive, i.e. chrome IIRC.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Resistance Is Futile! (If 1 ohm)

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:10:59 GMT, "Dallas"
wrote:

In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


I wonder if the stuff to repair rear window defogger strips will work
for this? Has anyone tried that? Can you still get it?

Tom


Dallas

I don't know if it's come up yet but GC has a product called "Nickel
Print" that you can pick up at electrical/electronic supply stores or
order online. I've also heard good things about the very expensive
rubber keypad repair kit.