Hi...

Got my fingers crossed that one or more of you might have a
bit of experience on car stereo's and be willing to advise

Got a new car (not new, new to me) with a great factory am/fm/cd
in it. Works perfectly, except no display.

Googled the prob, found a common fault described, but not applicable
to this particular model. (Chrysler infinity, made by Alpine)

What I did find removing the top cover is one of the plugs
is marked on the inside as "lamp". Wiggling this a bit, I can
make the display come on

Downside, hard to describe, is that plug connects to a bit of a
vertical pcb, which in turn goes into the top motherboard.
Wiggling this will easily turn off/on the display.

Now finally to the embarassing problem. I can fix it easily by
reflowing where that vertical board attaches to the motherboard,
but how in the world do I get at the bottom of it?

That durned "motherboard" is attached in so many ways and in so
many places that I can't imagine getting it out. Even has twist
tabs through it that are heavily soldered

Could perhaps try to flow a bit of solder through the board, but
not enough room to get even the tiniest pencil in there.

Appreciate any suggestions or advice, and thanks in advance.

Take care.

Ken

Can you use a piece of wire and solder that to the connection? Just a
thought
"Ken Weitzel" wrote in message
news:lLU3f.197856$tl2.130206@pd7tw3no...

Hi...

Got my fingers crossed that one or more of you might have a
bit of experience on car stereo's and be willing to advise

Got a new car (not new, new to me) with a great factory am/fm/cd
in it. Works perfectly, except no display.

Googled the prob, found a common fault described, but not applicable
to this particular model. (Chrysler infinity, made by Alpine)

What I did find removing the top cover is one of the plugs
is marked on the inside as "lamp". Wiggling this a bit, I can
make the display come on

Downside, hard to describe, is that plug connects to a bit of a
vertical pcb, which in turn goes into the top motherboard.
Wiggling this will easily turn off/on the display.

Now finally to the embarassing problem. I can fix it easily by
reflowing where that vertical board attaches to the motherboard,
but how in the world do I get at the bottom of it?

That durned "motherboard" is attached in so many ways and in so
many places that I can't imagine getting it out. Even has twist
tabs through it that are heavily soldered

Could perhaps try to flow a bit of solder through the board, but
not enough room to get even the tiniest pencil in there.

Appreciate any suggestions or advice, and thanks in advance.

Take care.

Ken

Nothing to be embarrassed about. Not having the proper tools, training or
manuals etc. makes it very hard t repair these radios. I used to work at a
car audio place, and we also did all kinds of repairs, 2-way commercial
radios, CB's, car audio. The GM radios we worked on, any other kind of
factory radio we sent out to a specialty shop. There is just too much that
can get broken or otherwise screwed up just getting to the problem, as you
have found.

Find a reputable shop and get it repaired. Do some looking in the yellow
pages and online. What part of the US are you in, anyway?

"Ken Weitzel" wrote in message
news:lLU3f.197856$tl2.130206@pd7tw3no...

Hi...

Got my fingers crossed that one or more of you might have a
bit of experience on car stereo's and be willing to advise

Got a new car (not new, new to me) with a great factory am/fm/cd
in it. Works perfectly, except no display.

Googled the prob, found a common fault described, but not applicable
to this particular model. (Chrysler infinity, made by Alpine)

What I did find removing the top cover is one of the plugs
is marked on the inside as "lamp". Wiggling this a bit, I can
make the display come on

Downside, hard to describe, is that plug connects to a bit of a
vertical pcb, which in turn goes into the top motherboard.
Wiggling this will easily turn off/on the display.

Now finally to the embarassing problem. I can fix it easily by
reflowing where that vertical board attaches to the motherboard,
but how in the world do I get at the bottom of it?

That durned "motherboard" is attached in so many ways and in so
many places that I can't imagine getting it out. Even has twist
tabs through it that are heavily soldered

Could perhaps try to flow a bit of solder through the board, but
not enough room to get even the tiniest pencil in there.

Appreciate any suggestions or advice, and thanks in advance.

Take care.

Ken

Mike W. wrote:
Nothing to be embarrassed about. Not having the proper tools, training or
manuals etc. makes it very hard t repair these radios. I used to work at a
car audio place, and we also did all kinds of repairs, 2-way commercial
radios, CB's, car audio. The GM radios we worked on, any other kind of
factory radio we sent out to a specialty shop. There is just too much that
can get broken or otherwise screwed up just getting to the problem, as you
have found.

Find a reputable shop and get it repaired. Do some looking in the yellow
pages and online. What part of the US are you in, anyway?

Hi Mike...

Hate to give up, hate to throw it away, and certainly not worth getting
repaired commercially - would cost as much as a new one, painful as that
must be to those young fellows still in the service business.

Finally did get it apart, got to the bottom of the board. Reflowed a
few suspicious looking areas, and put it back. Not intermittent display
anymore - now it's off all the time

Took it out again, followed traces and paths. Found an open choke.
Small one, looks like a shorter and fatter axial resistor. Don't know
the value, but fortunately another of us wrote me email and has kindly
offered to search for one for me

Then again, if everything else fails, in one of our local for sale
groups a fellow has one for sale, that does work. Almost identical,
save for only three equalizer slides (mine has 5). Problem that his
has is that it won't play burned CD's (does play commercial ones,
though) DRM?

Not in the US, about 75 miles north of the US border, in Winnipeg
Canada (north of North Dakota). Lots of friends and aquaintances in
the USA though

Take care.

Ken

Usually 1000uH will burn if grounds are not all connected.
Many cold solder joints and caps on top PCB.
Jeff

frontline@nospam wrote:

Usually 1000uH will burn if grounds are not all connected.
Many cold solder joints and caps on top PCB.
Jeff


Hi Jeff...

Ahh, that's what's happened, then. I'm pretty sure I'm guilty
of committing that sin. After a bit of flowing, I tested it in
the car without first putting it completely and properly back
together.

Are you sure it's 1000uh? There's a pic of it here, if that
helps.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/kweitzel/resistor.jpg

(I called it resistor.jpg; thought it was a shorter and fatter
1/2 watt

Also, seeing as it's in the "lamp" circuit, and without it everything
but the display works, I guess it's only purpose is to keep display
noise out of the radio? If so, can I use instead a few ohm resistor
in its place?

Thanks, and take care.

Ken

Yes, it is. I usually replace it if burned open but have seen it burned
and not open.
Any 1000uH around that size should work low ohm resistor will run
hotter not what you want inside a hot car radio. Read these type
inductors as you would a resistor although never trust either on the
middle band if burned they can change color.
Jeff