I have a 1987 27" Sylvania tv and it had some cold solder joints which I
fixed. It works great except the picture gets slightly brighter and dimmer.
Could this be caused by the wire going from the flyback to the cathode? When
I first put it back togeather I could hear it arcing a little like the
suction cup wasn't all of the way down. It doesn't make a arcing noise
anymore.

The model number of the tv is RNH4601 WA01
The Chasis model # is 26B1-06AA
Manufacture date October 1987


- Mike

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Could this be caused by the wire going from the flyback to the cathode?

The "Flyback to cathode wire"!? Jeez.....

No it is caused by the brightness to darkness tube failing.

Sorry. I couldn't remember what it is called. EXCUSE ME for not beign an
expert I don't do this for a job.

I was talking about the HV wire going to the CRT. (cathode ray tube) I
describet quite well what I was talking about. The wire does run from the
flyback to the Cathode (CRT)...
"Just Another Theremin Fan"
wrote in message
oups.com...

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Could this be caused by the wire going from the flyback to the cathode?

The "Flyback to cathode wire"!? Jeez.....

No it is caused by the brightness to darkness tube failing.

Michael Kennedy wrote:
Sorry. I couldn't remember what it is called. EXCUSE ME for not beign an
expert I don't do this for a job.

I was talking about the HV wire going to the CRT. (cathode ray tube) I
describet quite well what I was talking about. The wire does run from the
flyback to the Cathode (CRT)...

Hi...

Just so this doesn't happen again, AND so I can lecture you just a
tiny bit...

Yep, CRT is cathode ray tube. The cathode is one of the elements in
a cathode ray tube. (cathode ray = a ray [stream?] of electrons flying
off a heated cathode)

All of the connections to a cathode ray tube save one are connected via
the neck of the tube.

The one exception is the one you speak of, most generally recognized
as the second anode.

Hope that helps, now here's the lecture

Seeing you admitted to "not doing this for a job" - that connection
is lethal. It's lethal whether turned on or turned off, whether plugged
into the wall socket or not. It's even lethal after being discharged
and sitting for a short while (or a long while)

Be careful of it!!!!

Take care.

Ken

I know about how the tube can possibley charge its self back up even after
you discharge it. I usually keep a ground wire clipped on it when working on
a tv. Thanks I just couldn't remember the word anode.

- Mike
"Ken Weitzel" wrote in message
news:wOw1f.103736$1i.42961@pd7tw2no...


Michael Kennedy wrote:
Sorry. I couldn't remember what it is called. EXCUSE ME for not beign an
expert I don't do this for a job.

I was talking about the HV wire going to the CRT. (cathode ray tube) I
describet quite well what I was talking about. The wire does run from the
flyback to the Cathode (CRT)...

Hi...

Just so this doesn't happen again, AND so I can lecture you just a
tiny bit...

Yep, CRT is cathode ray tube. The cathode is one of the elements in
a cathode ray tube. (cathode ray = a ray [stream?] of electrons flying
off a heated cathode)

All of the connections to a cathode ray tube save one are connected via
the neck of the tube.

The one exception is the one you speak of, most generally recognized
as the second anode.

Hope that helps, now here's the lecture

Seeing you admitted to "not doing this for a job" - that connection
is lethal. It's lethal whether turned on or turned off, whether plugged
into the wall socket or not. It's even lethal after being discharged
and sitting for a short while (or a long while)

Be careful of it!!!!

Take care.

Ken

Seeing you admitted to "not doing this for a job" - that connection
is lethal.

That's what I was implying. The guy really shouldn't be messing with
it.

I dread to think what these people do "for a job" and if they have the
same attitude to their work as they do with dealing with electrical
equipment.

I'm a college student and I am a computer tech and I do my job quite well.
I'm sure there was a time when you didn't know everything there is to know.
I'm the first to admit I don't know everything. No one does! I actually just
forgot the name since I rarely work on Televisions. I'm still learning but I
do know to discharge all of the large caps and the anode before you start
working on a tv and to keep a ground wire attached to the anode while
working on a tv.

I am very careful with electricity. I have been working with electricity all
of my life and I used to work as an elctrician. I try to never work on
anything hot if possible.

I hate how you just insult me like I am an idiot.


I dread to think what these people do "for a job" and if they have the
same attitude to their work as they do with dealing with electrical
equipment.

Just Another Theremin Fan wrote:

Michael Kennedy wrote:


Could this be caused by the wire going from the flyback to the cathode?


The "Flyback to cathode wire"!? Jeez.....

No it is caused by the brightness to darkness tube failing.


Oh, yeah... I still have a few "1B2D" tubes here
somewhere.....with the stock of "color tubes" that are
always bad in the sets at garage sales.


--
PB
"Fresh windows units enter the internet backwards, bent
over & naked, screaming “Don’t infect me! It will take
me more than 12 minutes to download the security
packs!”-anonamin

"Michael Kennedy" bravely wrote to "All" (06 Oct 05 23:52:12)
--- on the heady topic of "Sylvania 27" tv Brightness Flickers"

MK From: "Michael Kennedy"
MK Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:344333

MK I have a 1987 27" Sylvania tv and it had some cold solder joints which
MK I fixed. It works great except the picture gets slightly brighter and
MK dimmer. Could this be caused by the wire going from the flyback to the
MK cathode? When I first put it back togeather I could hear it arcing a
MK little like the suction cup wasn't all of the way down. It doesn't
MK make a arcing noise anymore.

MK The model number of the tv is RNH4601 WA01
MK The Chasis model # is 26B1-06AA
MK Manufacture date October 1987


Mike,

It could be the flyback assembly alright. The flickering might be the
the g2 voltage jumping around. If you smell something like burnt toast
around that area then the flyback *is* toast. Otherwise it may be a
video problem.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... :) What does that wire do? =8Q (oh!)

Thanks I'll check it or sniff it out.
- Mike

"Asimov" wrote in message
...
"Michael Kennedy" bravely wrote to "All" (06 Oct 05 23:52:12)
--- on the heady topic of "Sylvania 27" tv Brightness Flickers"

MK From: "Michael Kennedy"
MK Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:344333

MK I have a 1987 27" Sylvania tv and it had some cold solder joints which
MK I fixed. It works great except the picture gets slightly brighter and
MK dimmer. Could this be caused by the wire going from the flyback to
the
MK cathode? When I first put it back togeather I could hear it arcing a
MK little like the suction cup wasn't all of the way down. It doesn't
MK make a arcing noise anymore.

MK The model number of the tv is RNH4601 WA01
MK The Chasis model # is 26B1-06AA
MK Manufacture date October 1987


Mike,

It could be the flyback assembly alright. The flickering might be the
the g2 voltage jumping around. If you smell something like burnt toast
around that area then the flyback *is* toast. Otherwise it may be a
video problem.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... :) What does that wire do? =8Q (oh!)

On Thu, 6 Oct 2005 23:52:12 -0400, "Michael Kennedy"
wrote:

I have a 1987 27" Sylvania tv and it had some cold solder joints which I
fixed. It works great except the picture gets slightly brighter and dimmer.
Could this be caused by the wire going from the flyback to the cathode? When
I first put it back togeather I could hear it arcing a little like the
suction cup wasn't all of the way down. It doesn't make a arcing noise
anymore.

The model number of the tv is RNH4601 WA01
The Chasis model # is 26B1-06AA
Manufacture date October 1987


- Mike


I guess there's a new standard here...when I first started here a
number of years back, this post would've been just about what we
wanted...when did the rules change, and who changed them? This guy has
undeservedly been drawn through the wringer, and it isn't right. You
know who you are...

Tom

Tom MacIntyre wrote:
when did the rules change, and who changed them? This guy has
undeservedly been drawn through the wringer, and it isn't right.

What "rules"? Can you point me to them? All I did was try and give an
opinion to a problem a guy was having and help him along the way bu
suggesting that he first of all knew the names of the (lethal) parts he
was dabbling with.

If you have childred I hope that you don't "instruct" them with insults
and belittling like you have done with your postings.... maybe that is
the way yow were "instructed" ..... you igonorant and arrogant
idiot.... get it right, you fool.
electricitym