How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).

Very fine steel wool or scotchbrite.

wrote:
How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).

In article . com,
wrote:
How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).

My favourite is a fibreglass 'pencil'.

--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote in
ups.com:

How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).


Tarn-X,available at (US)supermarkets,drug stores,Wal-Mart and lots of other
places.Inexpensive.

Wipe on,rinse off,dry.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

A vague memory that Coca Cola does the job

David

wrote:

How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).

You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.

On 1 Jul 2005 14:14:08 -0700, wrote:

How should I clean the surface of pcb that has sat around for a long
time and doesn't take solder well (ideally, using materials I can go in
a local store and buy over the counter).

"Alan the Tech" wrote in message
...

You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.

I like a diamond nail file for those.

N

"NSM" wrote in news:LcBxe.126867$on1.100884@clgrps13:


"Alan the Tech" wrote in message
...

You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.

I like a diamond nail file for those.

N




you probably remove a lot more material with the file than with a
chemical(polish) like Brasso or Tarn-X.
Tarn-X is even easier to use than Brasso.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .

You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.

I like a diamond nail file for those.

you probably remove a lot more material with the file than with a
chemical(polish) like Brasso or Tarn-X.
Tarn-X is even easier to use than Brasso.

That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

N

On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 01:32:34 GMT, "NSM" wrote:


"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
. ..

You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.

I like a diamond nail file for those.
A diamond file may be ok for what you do, but when I say hi current
I'm talking 12 to 16 power modules with 2200 amps coming from each
into a common buss line. with a combined current of 26400 to 35200
amps. Start taking material off the contacts and your talking some
real fireworks if you don't weld everything together. And at that
current levels a few mills of oxidation acts like a power resistor and
it gets real hot. I had a 3 inch X 5 inch X 1/2 inch thick contact
plate with just a little corrosion get hot enough to burn my hand. (I
got first degree burns that time) That was before I started to polish
the contacts.
you probably remove a lot more material with the file than with a
chemical(polish) like Brasso or Tarn-X.
Tarn-X is even easier to use than Brasso.
I haven't tried Tarn-X
That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

N

"Alan the Tech" wrote in message
...

A diamond file may be ok for what you do, but when I say hi current
I'm talking 12 to 16 power modules with 2200 amps coming from each
into a common buss line. with a combined current of 26400 to 35200
amps. Start taking material off the contacts and your talking some
real fireworks if you don't weld everything together. And at that
current levels a few mills of oxidation acts like a power resistor and
it gets real hot. I had a 3 inch X 5 inch X 1/2 inch thick contact
plate with just a little corrosion get hot enough to burn my hand. (I
got first degree burns that time) That was before I started to polish
the contacts.

No argument there. I'm cleaning relay contacts - max 5 amps usually and
maybe a lot less. I installed a 400 amp 400 volt busbar system once and I
did that with a wrench and a heavy hand. Expensive stuff to have burn up on
you.

N

"NSM" wrote in news:SeHxe.75476$wr.33595@clgrps12:


"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .

You also can use Brasso. I use it on hi current contacts on the job.

I like a diamond nail file for those.

you probably remove a lot more material with the file than with a
chemical(polish) like Brasso or Tarn-X.
Tarn-X is even easier to use than Brasso.

That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

N




Well,then you are not just cleaning tarnish,you are reshaping eroded
contacts,an entirely DIFFERENT task.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .

That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

Well,then you are not just cleaning tarnish,you are reshaping eroded
contacts,an entirely DIFFERENT task.

I find it works for all cases.

N

"NSM" wrote in news:ZgWxe.105193$9A2.4019@edtnps89:


"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .

That's what I need. Sometimes silver points grow peaks and craters. A
diamond file in the hands of the skilled (me) works well.

Well,then you are not just cleaning tarnish,you are reshaping eroded
contacts,an entirely DIFFERENT task.

I find it works for all cases.

N




IIRC,the OP wanted to clean off a PCB's tarnish.
I'd like to see you use your diamond file on a PCB for tarnish removal.

PS;the title of this thread is "BEST way to -clean- copper".

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .

IIRC,the OP wanted to clean off a PCB's tarnish.
I'd like to see you use your diamond file on a PCB for tarnish removal.

But the topic drifted to "hi current contacts"

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

N

NSM wrote:
"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .


IIRC,the OP wanted to clean off a PCB's tarnish.
I'd like to see you use your diamond file on a PCB for tarnish removal.


But the topic drifted to "hi current contacts"

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

N




Lemon juice works fine.

Ron (UK)

--

www.lunevalleyaudio.com

"Ron(UK)" wrote in message
...

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

Lemon juice works fine.

Or vinegar.

N

On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 07:13:28 GMT, "NSM" wrote:


"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
. ..

IIRC,the OP wanted to clean off a PCB's tarnish.
I'd like to see you use your diamond file on a PCB for tarnish removal.

But the topic drifted to "hi current contacts"

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

N


They used to make something called "board washer" or something like
that. An aerosol spray that cleaned gunk and removed tarnish from
entire circuit boards. My old man had a can or two of it way back when
he had an electronics repair shop.
I seem to remember a similar spay cleaner during my Navy days in
avionics corrosion control, though it came in a unmarked green can
with just a mil spec number.
There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.

In article ,
none wrote:
There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.

Trouble is you can't guarantee they won't leave some form of coating on
the copper that isn't good for soldering. After all, they're not made for
this job.

I favour mechanical cleaning. Fine wire wool or like I said a fibreglass
pencil which is made for the job.

--
*Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 10:48:21 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
none wrote:
There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.

Trouble is you can't guarantee they won't leave some form of coating on
the copper that isn't good for soldering. After all, they're not made for
this job.

I favour mechanical cleaning. Fine wire wool or like I said a fibreglass
pencil which is made for the job.

Easy, you follow up the de-tarnishing of the surface copper with a
light washing with a decent contact cleaner. Say crc electro wash and
a bit of compressed air to blow it off?

In article ,
none wrote:
Trouble is you can't guarantee they won't leave some form of coating on
the copper that isn't good for soldering. After all, they're not made for
this job.

I favour mechanical cleaning. Fine wire wool or like I said a fibreglass
pencil which is made for the job.

Easy, you follow up the de-tarnishing of the surface copper with a
light washing with a decent contact cleaner. Say crc electro wash and
a bit of compressed air to blow it off?

Err, easier and cheaper just to use a mechanical cleaner? ;-)

--
*Why is the man who invests all your money called a broker? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.