I picked up this Sears model 917.387440 6.25hp push lawnmower at a yard
sale for 5 bucks and someone had attempted to do some carb work on it
which failed miserably by looking at it. The gas line is cracked and
the jet needle was missing. Easy enough to get those parts at the
local Sears place. However, I cant really tell how the carb levers and
springs go into place, maybe Im missing another part but hard to tell.
I was hoping someone might have access to or know where I can get a
real picture of how it looks put together.
Sears engine model is 143.006200

On 25 Jun 2005 10:02:11 -0700, "spongehead"
wrote:

I picked up this Sears model 917.387440 6.25hp push lawnmower at a yard
sale for 5 bucks and someone had attempted to do some carb work on it
which failed miserably by looking at it. The gas line is cracked and
the jet needle was missing. Easy enough to get those parts at the
local Sears place. However, I cant really tell how the carb levers and
springs go into place, maybe Im missing another part but hard to tell.
I was hoping someone might have access to or know where I can get a
real picture of how it looks put together.
Sears engine model is 143.006200

It's most likely a Techumseh engine on it correct?
Is it set up for throttle free runningor does the mower have a
throttle control?
I repair these things all the time and can set you on the correct
course to having that mower running in short order.
The gas line is 1/4 inch, just go down to a auto parts store and buy a
foot of it and cut to length.
There is no jet needle, I'm assuming you're talking about the fuel
supply needle that goes on the float?
You'll have to purchase that as part of a float kit if you go through
sears. It can be had separately at most lawnmower supply shops.(You
should get a seal o-ring as part of the packet as well. It's the
o-ring that goes up in the needle well. white rubber about 1-2 mm's in
dia.)
The float will be plastic and 90% of the time is fine. Check to see
if it has leaks to be on the safe side, or you'll get gas flooding
problems.(tie a weight on it and submerge in water if you get bubbles
it will need replacing as well. once removed from the water take a
look at it as see if it's got any water inside, just give it a shake.)
The govenor spring and link are easy. On the side of the engine casing
you'll see the governor control arm(shiny metal with two holes in the
top end.), the top hole is for the bent angled wire control link. It
goes to the back hole on the carbuerator butterfly, under the govenor
assembley plate. The spring with the short straigt wire link will go
to the lower hole and to the throttle control arm that sticks out from
the throttle plate assembley.
The diagrahms on the sears site won't be detailed enough for you to
see this. I'll either have to talk you through or send you some
scans/vidcaps.
Talk to me if you can't find someone locally and I'll snap those pics
for you monday.(I have several Techumseh's engines in shop)

Yeah it is a Techumseh but the float is metal and seems to be in good
working order. I am able to get a rebuld kit at Sears for about 15
bucks, includes gaskets and the fuel supply needle. That should get it
going hopefully.
Just you describing which wire link goes to which hole, I think I got
the jist of it.
Is there ever problems on the inside of the motor where the governor
control arm is? I just havnt worked on a motor like this, usually the
basic briggs stuff.
Thanks for all the info!

On 27 Jun 2005 13:23:09 -0700, "spongehead"
wrote:

Yeah it is a Techumseh but the float is metal and seems to be in good
working order. I am able to get a rebuld kit at Sears for about 15
bucks, includes gaskets and the fuel supply needle. That should get it
going hopefully.
Just you describing which wire link goes to which hole, I think I got
the jist of it.
Is there ever problems on the inside of the motor where the governor
control arm is? I just havnt worked on a motor like this, usually the
basic briggs stuff.
Thanks for all the info!

Nah, usually no problem. Though it does depend on the stupidity
quotient of the original owner.
And yeah your right, it's a metal float. My memory gets lousy at my
age plus I'd spent the last few days working on Briggs and honda
motors so plastic got stuck in my mind.
Techumseh's as of the past decade or so have gotten to be the most
reliable motors out there.
Don't get too over confident about those links, it's easy to get the
wire link on backwards and they do have to go on exactly right.
Like I said I can send you some vid caps or stills of just how they go
on if you need it.
You can make the flat intake gasket yourself with some fibre gasket
sheets and an exacto, the float bowl gasket usually lasts for a long
time.
The needle can be got solo at most small engine parts/lawnmower parts
shops.
A hint, Sears uses the same parts numbers as the oem's so you can use
the sears # at the lower cost parts houses.
There are tons of places online as well.
http://www.docsysllc.com/main.htm
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/carb_t.cfm
http://www.m-and-d.com/
http://www.westernauto1.com/engines/Tecumseh/tair.html
http://www.smallengines.cc/

Just a few.

seems to me the last time I actually bought a new needle I got it for
around 6 bucks with the seat o-ring seal included.

Not bad, was able to find it for 11 bucks. If you want to send pic of
linkage, just add "msp" after the underscore.
I did notice the spring was all stretched out, not sure how important
that is or if I can get away with stretching it some more.

"spongehead" writes:

Not bad, was able to find it for 11 bucks. If you want to send pic of
linkage, just add "msp" after the underscore.
I did notice the spring was all stretched out, not sure how important
that is or if I can get away with stretching it some more.

Probably:

http://www.angelfire.com/mb2/visitme.../tecumseh.html

The spring is probably fine, that's the way it is.

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On 28 Jun 2005 07:59:20 -0700, "spongehead"
wrote:

Not bad, was able to find it for 11 bucks. If you want to send pic of
linkage, just add "msp" after the underscore.
I did notice the spring was all stretched out, not sure how important
that is or if I can get away with stretching it some more.

If the spring is stretched replace it. Proper tension and spring
length is importnt for proper govenor function as well as smooth
throttle control.