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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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CT169 board :)
Hi Guys... Hey, this is going from bad to worse... from funny to whatever the opposite of funny is Got the durned thing apart, thanks to you guys. Looked at it real close with bright light and big glass and reflowed some solder. Put it back together, worked perfectly - but only for 10 minute programs before the vert collapsed again. This time much less sensitive... required several good slaps to turn it on/off. Decided to try once more. Took it apart, reflowed again and did even more areas. Put it back together again. Dead. Wouldn't turn on. Not front panel or remote. Little bit of noise inserting the cheater cord, but that's it. (Do you younger fellows still call 'em cheater cords? Looked carefully, and either I had broken the thermistor, or broke it while looking. Scrounged another from an old monitor, replaced it and still dead as a doornail. Googling seems to show thermistors sold by their hot value so can't compare. Old one measured 6 ohms cold, replaced it with one that read about 7 ohms cold. Just from interest, should it start with an open therm? Have no schematic, of course. Any suggestions? Thanks, take care. Ken |
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Ken Weitzel wrote: Looked carefully, and either I had broken the thermistor, or broke it while looking. Scrounged another from an old monitor, replaced it and still dead as a doornail. Just from interest, should it start with an open therm? That's just a degaussing thermister, the TV will start and run without it. Check the collector of the horiz output. In standby, the collector should read about 145 volts or so. If it's zero, the smps is dead or shutdown. John |
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