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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Does anyone have the procedure and source for the gel from the sony SD-174
crt used in thier projection tv's. |
#2
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How old is this Unit ??
kip "Tom Daisley" wrote in message news ![]() Does anyone have the procedure and source for the gel from the sony SD-174 crt used in thier projection tv's. |
#3
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Kip, circa 1986.
Tom; It is exceedingly difficult. The good news is that the results are usually very good, these tubes hold their emission very well and the cooling system on those is very efficient so there will be little if any phosphor burn. The key to the efficiency is also the nemesis of one who tries to change the coolant. First of all you have to cut it open either in two places or cut the "convector" glass out to effectively clean it. You might be able to boil it instead, it may or may not come clean. I removed the glass once and broke it. I put it back in without it and the scheimflung factor was off. (cannot acheive focus in corners and caenter simuleanously). It wasn't that bad, but noticable. I resorted to cutting the front lens off and that worked well, but you must realign it as you drop it on the beads of silicone. You need to be good with silicone, you DO know you don't spread it right ? Also, the only other person I know who used to do these things highly recommended the copper variety and seems to work. Actually the way he put it was "the only thijng that'll work is the ultra copper". If you don't want to attempt it I can do it but I have no idea what to charge you, it literally takes three days my way. Not three days of work, but I'd glue the chamber together and after it dried, then I would glue the plastic output lens on that, using the barrel lens to assure good alignment. If you want me to do it post back. I can give you some pointers, but outlining the whole procedure would take too much time. One last point, leave the yoke and everything on the tube, also, don't mess with the anode cap. The other end comes out of the block by first slipping the boot away, then pushing the wire down a bit and turning it 90 degrees. If you get started, keep us posted. Like I said I can provide a few pointers, but the whole thing, well, you'll have to figure out most of it for yourself. Mechanical skills, if you can work on cars like rebuilding carbs and stuff you should be able to handle it. Except for knowing safety, it doesn't take alot of electronics expertise. Do remember these sets remember when they were on, and will come on when plugged in, have it connected right FIRST. JURB |
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