A neighbor did some major pruning of a plum tree in his back yard and
knows I'm into woodturning. He brought over some branches about 4" in
diameter for me to play with. Normally I don't turn green wood because I
prefer doing lidded boxes and detailed finials. But the stuff was free -
and it had some interesting color to the heartwood - so I turned some
pieces out of it.. Roughed to round and then down to some heartwood,
followed by initial shaping and hollowing through a 5/8" diameter hole
(OK, so on one of them I hollowed through a larger hole in the bottom
and plugged it afterwards. NOT a good idea with green wood turnings due
to changes in shape when drying).

Being somewhat impatient, I then microwaved each and turned to final
shape and wall thickness, sanded, oiled with Mahoney Walnut Oil to pop
the grain and polished with HUT Wax on a buffer using an unstitched
cloth wheel. None of the pieces were completely dry , but as I've
admitted, I'm not very patient.

Three of the pieces are "pinch neck" forms and very rakuesque. The
fourth I turned to allow for some carving and grinding and took the
Proxxon little disk sander to it. Will be playing with that some more in
the future.

Still haven't figured out a way of holding these things in order to turn
a finished bottom.

Like most fruitwoods, plumwood is prone to cracking and splitting as it
dries. I've found that the thinner the walls the less splitting and
cracking there is. Also found that if you drill out the pith and plug it
with either the same wood or a dry hardwood, the cracking off the pith
is reduced or eliminated.

Comments, constructive criticism and suggestions will be appreciated.

charlie belden

Those look plumb good charlieb



"charlieb" wrote in message
...
A neighbor did some major pruning of a plum tree in his back yard and
knows I'm into woodturning. He brought over some branches about 4" in
diameter for me to play with. Normally I don't turn green wood because I
prefer doing lidded boxes and detailed finials. But the stuff was free -
and it had some interesting color to the heartwood - so I turned some
pieces out of it.. Roughed to round and then down to some heartwood,
followed by initial shaping and hollowing through a 5/8" diameter hole
(OK, so on one of them I hollowed through a larger hole in the bottom
and plugged it afterwards. NOT a good idea with green wood turnings due
to changes in shape when drying).

Being somewhat impatient, I then microwaved each and turned to final
shape and wall thickness, sanded, oiled with Mahoney Walnut Oil to pop
the grain and polished with HUT Wax on a buffer using an unstitched
cloth wheel. None of the pieces were completely dry , but as I've
admitted, I'm not very patient.

Three of the pieces are "pinch neck" forms and very rakuesque. The
fourth I turned to allow for some carving and grinding and took the
Proxxon little disk sander to it. Will be playing with that some more in
the future.

Still haven't figured out a way of holding these things in order to turn
a finished bottom.

Like most fruitwoods, plumwood is prone to cracking and splitting as it
dries. I've found that the thinner the walls the less splitting and
cracking there is. Also found that if you drill out the pith and plug it
with either the same wood or a dry hardwood, the cracking off the pith
is reduced or eliminated.

Comments, constructive criticism and suggestions will be appreciated.

charlie belden

Nice turnings and design. Beautiful color.

Tim
"charlieb" wrote in message
...
A neighbor did some major pruning of a plum tree in his back yard and
knows I'm into woodturning. He brought over some branches about 4" in
diameter for me to play with. Normally I don't turn green wood because I
prefer doing lidded boxes and detailed finials. But the stuff was free -
and it had some interesting color to the heartwood - so I turned some
pieces out of it.. Roughed to round and then down to some heartwood,
followed by initial shaping and hollowing through a 5/8" diameter hole
(OK, so on one of them I hollowed through a larger hole in the bottom
and plugged it afterwards. NOT a good idea with green wood turnings due
to changes in shape when drying).

Being somewhat impatient, I then microwaved each and turned to final
shape and wall thickness, sanded, oiled with Mahoney Walnut Oil to pop
the grain and polished with HUT Wax on a buffer using an unstitched
cloth wheel. None of the pieces were completely dry , but as I've
admitted, I'm not very patient.

Three of the pieces are "pinch neck" forms and very rakuesque. The
fourth I turned to allow for some carving and grinding and took the
Proxxon little disk sander to it. Will be playing with that some more in
the future.

Still haven't figured out a way of holding these things in order to turn
a finished bottom.

Like most fruitwoods, plumwood is prone to cracking and splitting as it
dries. I've found that the thinner the walls the less splitting and
cracking there is. Also found that if you drill out the pith and plug it
with either the same wood or a dry hardwood, the cracking off the pith
is reduced or eliminated.

Comments, constructive criticism and suggestions will be appreciated.

charlie belden

charlieb wrote:

A neighbor did some major pruning of a plum tree in his back yard and
knows I'm into woodturning. He brought over some branches about 4" in
diameter for me to play with. Normally I don't turn green wood because I
prefer doing lidded boxes and detailed finials. But the stuff was free -
and it had some interesting color to the heartwood - so I turned some
pieces out of it.. Roughed to round and then down to some heartwood,
followed by initial shaping and hollowing through a 5/8" diameter hole
(OK, so on one of them I hollowed through a larger hole in the bottom
and plugged it afterwards. NOT a good idea with green wood turnings due
to changes in shape when drying).


Wow, that is some nice looking wood.

--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough

I'm still thinking in terms of "not wasting wood" so still
turning for the largest diameter/biggest surface area
as the highest priority.

Perhaps if I'd removed more wood on the outside more
of the heart wood would show on more of the outside
surface. And even when the wood is free - and delivered
- my newbie Bigger Is Better Than Really Nice blind spot
is hard to overcome.

charlie b

On Tue, 05 Feb 2008 16:12:36 -0800, charlieb wrote:

Really nice wood, Charlie.. great color..
I love turning plum..

You're getting to be a real turner, Charlie.. your learning curve and
willingness to try new things amazes me..

A neighbor did some major pruning of a plum tree in his back yard and
knows I'm into woodturning. He brought over some branches about 4" in
diameter for me to play with. Normally I don't turn green wood because I
prefer doing lidded boxes and detailed finials. But the stuff was free -
and it had some interesting color to the heartwood - so I turned some
pieces out of it.. Roughed to round and then down to some heartwood,
followed by initial shaping and hollowing through a 5/8" diameter hole
(OK, so on one of them I hollowed through a larger hole in the bottom
and plugged it afterwards. NOT a good idea with green wood turnings due
to changes in shape when drying).

Being somewhat impatient, I then microwaved each and turned to final
shape and wall thickness, sanded, oiled with Mahoney Walnut Oil to pop
the grain and polished with HUT Wax on a buffer using an unstitched
cloth wheel. None of the pieces were completely dry , but as I've
admitted, I'm not very patient.

Three of the pieces are "pinch neck" forms and very rakuesque. The
fourth I turned to allow for some carving and grinding and took the
Proxxon little disk sander to it. Will be playing with that some more in
the future.

Still haven't figured out a way of holding these things in order to turn
a finished bottom.

Like most fruitwoods, plumwood is prone to cracking and splitting as it
dries. I've found that the thinner the walls the less splitting and
cracking there is. Also found that if you drill out the pith and plug it
with either the same wood or a dry hardwood, the cracking off the pith
is reduced or eliminated.

Comments, constructive criticism and suggestions will be appreciated.

charlie belden


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 05 Feb 2008 22:07:20 -0800, charlieb wrote:

I'm still thinking in terms of "not wasting wood" so still
turning for the largest diameter/biggest surface area
as the highest priority.

Perhaps if I'd removed more wood on the outside more
of the heart wood would show on more of the outside
surface. And even when the wood is free - and delivered
- my newbie Bigger Is Better Than Really Nice blind spot
is hard to overcome.

charlie b
It took me years to get over that, Charlie..

I look at my early stuff, especially bowls, and they're mostly rounded bottom
with straight sides..
Why? Because I was maximizing the wood.. I think we all tend to do that..

Just like you can make an omelet without breaking eggs, I've found that, at
least for me, you can't get a smooth curve or "apple shape" without taking a lot
more wood off than you leave on the bowl..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Does the green wood change much in color as it dries?

Very nice work BTW!

--
Mike
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
IYAAYAS
"charlieb" wrote in message
...
A neighbor did some major pruning of a plum tree in his back yard and
knows I'm into woodturning. He brought over some branches about 4" in
diameter for me to play with. Normally I don't turn green wood because I
prefer doing lidded boxes and detailed finials. But the stuff was free -
and it had some interesting color to the heartwood - so I turned some
pieces out of it.. Roughed to round and then down to some heartwood,
followed by initial shaping and hollowing through a 5/8" diameter hole
(OK, so on one of them I hollowed through a larger hole in the bottom
and plugged it afterwards. NOT a good idea with green wood turnings due
to changes in shape when drying).

Being somewhat impatient, I then microwaved each and turned to final
shape and wall thickness, sanded, oiled with Mahoney Walnut Oil to pop
the grain and polished with HUT Wax on a buffer using an unstitched
cloth wheel. None of the pieces were completely dry , but as I've
admitted, I'm not very patient.

Three of the pieces are "pinch neck" forms and very rakuesque. The
fourth I turned to allow for some carving and grinding and took the
Proxxon little disk sander to it. Will be playing with that some more in
the future.

Still haven't figured out a way of holding these things in order to turn
a finished bottom.

Like most fruitwoods, plumwood is prone to cracking and splitting as it
dries. I've found that the thinner the walls the less splitting and
cracking there is. Also found that if you drill out the pith and plug it
with either the same wood or a dry hardwood, the cracking off the pith
is reduced or eliminated.

Comments, constructive criticism and suggestions will be appreciated.

charlie belden

Lovely work Charlie, nice wood, nice colours and beautifully done..
Congrats.

Tom

On Wed, 6 Feb 2008 07:33:29 -0700, "asmurff" wrote:

Does the green wood change much in color as it dries?

Very nice work BTW!

Usually plum will stay the same or deepen the color..
I usually let it absorb a few coats of natural Danish oil and buff plum..
Brilliant colors and a rich, deep glow..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

asmurff wrote:

Does the green wood change much in color as it dries?

Some do and some don't. Wet sycamore can look salmon
or even orange, yet dries to almost white. Magnolia starts
out almost white and goes to a pale yellow cream color.
Black locust starts out dark, the heartwood at least, and
stays dark, though slightly lighter than green. With this
plum wood, I suspect the sapwood will stay about the same,
some of the brighter red hues will darken a bit over time.
We'll see, since this is the first time I've played with wet
plum. Will report back in a few months time - if I can remember
to. So much wood to play with - and the time to play with it.

As for a willingness to try all sorts of turning methods,
styles and woods - I think it's TADD (Turners Attention
Deficit Disorder) - can't stay focused on any one type
of turning for long 'cause another one comes along.

But it is sort of a logical progression. I did some christmas
ornaments that required hollowing through a small opening.
Makeshift tools didn't work very well and we slow as hell.
A guy in the turning club occassionaly makes tools for club
members. He'd done some for ornament hollowing so I
asked him to make me a set - a straight and a 45. They
make hollowing ornaments a lot easier and faster. So, with
than experience I just went a bit bigger than ornamanets.
Had a little more freedom with the shapes and have thrown
pinch neck pots and done raku firing - so . . .

Some folks concentrate on one thing, to the exclusion of
everything else, and get really, really good at that one
thing. I'm more like a kid in a candy store - all these
different kinds of wood, all these different tools and
techniques, an infinite number of shapes and forms . . .

Tonite's club meeting will focus on hollowing tools and
techniques. A club member is selling a caputured
hollowing system called the Mini-O (there's also a
Might-O) that looks interesting. Similar to the "D-Handle"
capture system but round. Has a laser attachement
and laser and four or five changeable tips. "Only" $400
for the whole "system".
_ ___
( )=====- rather than [___]=====-

Clubs are a dangerous place to be if you're a Tool Phreak,
which I admittedly am.

Beautiful work Mac. The colors and swirls are really outstanding.
`Casper

Usually plum will stay the same or deepen the color..
I usually let it absorb a few coats of natural Danish oil and buff plum..
Brilliant colors and a rich, deep glow..
mac

On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 18:01:09 -0800, charlieb wrote:


Snip
Some folks concentrate on one thing, to the exclusion of
everything else, and get really, really good at that one
thing. I'm more like a kid in a candy store - all these
different kinds of wood, all these different tools and
techniques, an infinite number of shapes and forms . . .
snip

Me too, Charlie...
I love to try/learn/master new things and skills..
I spent a few years doing mostly bowls and got pretty bored..
Now, I love looking at my display shelves and seeing very few objects that are
the same shape, size or style..

Last night, my wife decided that we should make hair sticks.. another learning
curve that you've completed so well..

Now, after finding out that the acorn that Gerald sent is a box, she wants some
of them, too.. *sigh*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:

Those ironwood pieces are real eye-catchers!
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Why does ravel and unravel mean the
same thing?

On Thu, 07 Feb 2008 18:55:58 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

mac davis wrote:

Those ironwood pieces are real eye-catchers!

Thanks... None sold so far, though...

Another working show this weekend, maybe some will sell..
4 or 5 shows here so far and haven't been shut out yet, so this will probably be
a "no sales" weekend, since I just said that..lol

Did you do those cross hatches with a carver's file, or maybe a saw blade?

Yeah, she wants me to make some.. and it's YOUR fault.. ;~]


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Thu, 07 Feb 2008 18:55:58 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

mac davis wrote:

Those ironwood pieces are real eye-catchers!

Thanks... None sold so far, though...

Another working show this weekend, maybe some will sell..
4 or 5 shows here so far and haven't been shut out yet, so this will probably be
a "no sales" weekend, since I just said that..lol

Did you do those cross hatches with a carver's file, or maybe a saw blade?

One of my previous hobbies was woodcarving. I used a hand-held V
gouge. Used it to sign it too.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Why does ravel and unravel mean the
same thing?

Charlie, you amaze me!
I wish I were close enough to come and look over your shoulder and learn
from you.
Those little skinny necked ones, are they really hollowed out like jugs?

They're beautiful pieces. Good info on the pith. Maybe someday I'll need to
know that.

Kate


"charlieb" wrote in message
...
A neighbor did some major pruning of a plum tree in his back yard and
knows I'm into woodturning. He brought over some branches about 4" in
diameter for me to play with. Normally I don't turn green wood because I
prefer doing lidded boxes and detailed finials. But the stuff was free -
and it had some interesting color to the heartwood - so I turned some
pieces out of it.. Roughed to round and then down to some heartwood,
followed by initial shaping and hollowing through a 5/8" diameter hole
(OK, so on one of them I hollowed through a larger hole in the bottom
and plugged it afterwards. NOT a good idea with green wood turnings due
to changes in shape when drying).

Being somewhat impatient, I then microwaved each and turned to final
shape and wall thickness, sanded, oiled with Mahoney Walnut Oil to pop
the grain and polished with HUT Wax on a buffer using an unstitched
cloth wheel. None of the pieces were completely dry , but as I've
admitted, I'm not very patient.

Three of the pieces are "pinch neck" forms and very rakuesque. The
fourth I turned to allow for some carving and grinding and took the
Proxxon little disk sander to it. Will be playing with that some more in
the future.

Still haven't figured out a way of holding these things in order to turn
a finished bottom.

Like most fruitwoods, plumwood is prone to cracking and splitting as it
dries. I've found that the thinner the walls the less splitting and
cracking there is. Also found that if you drill out the pith and plug it
with either the same wood or a dry hardwood, the cracking off the pith
is reduced or eliminated.

Comments, constructive criticism and suggestions will be appreciated.

charlie belden

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 08:05:08 -0600, "Kate"
wrote:

Charlie, you amaze me!
I wish I were close enough to come and look over your shoulder and learn
from you.
Those little skinny necked ones, are they really hollowed out like jugs?

They're beautiful pieces. Good info on the pith. Maybe someday I'll need to
know that.

Kate

Leave it to Kate to come up with a pithy comment..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing