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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

"Dry" mix screed



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 6th 04, 01:03 AM
Omri
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"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
.uk...
how dry is a dry mix?
this is for a thin screed over UFH

My mate said it's like the consistency of Apple crumble topping, but is
there a more usefull way of working out what dry really is?


Sand / cement dry screed needs to be about 1" to 11/2" thick. mix damp sand
with cement and voila. Use a float to work it quite easily into a lovely
flat finish. No good as a thin layer, eventually it will lift.


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  #2  
Old December 6th 04, 06:28 PM
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk
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Default "Dry" mix screed

how dry is a dry mix?
this is for a thin screed over UFH

My mate said it's like the consistency of Apple crumble topping, but is
there a more usefull way of working out what dry really is?

--
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  #3  
Old December 6th 04, 07:38 PM
Rick Dipper
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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 18:28:29 GMT, "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk"
wrote:

how dry is a dry mix?
this is for a thin screed over UFH

My mate said it's like the consistency of Apple crumble topping, but is
there a more usefull way of working out what dry really is?


Ask the cheif cook in your house to do the mixing, or at least
supervise the adding of water ..........

Rick

  #4  
Old December 7th 04, 02:15 AM
The Natural Philosopher
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Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk wrote:

how dry is a dry mix?
this is for a thin screed over UFH

My mate said it's like the consistency of Apple crumble topping, but is
there a more usefull way of working out what dry really is?

If its too wet it slumps.

It can almost be as dry as you like frankly. It will in time set no
matter how little water there is in it.

Being as how this is a dampish sort of planet.
  #5  
Old December 7th 04, 10:48 AM
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk
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Omri wrote:

Sand / cement dry screed needs to be about 1" to 11/2" thick. mix damp sand
with cement and voila. Use a float to work it quite easily into a lovely
flat finish. No good as a thin layer, eventually it will lift.


It's suggested by Newheat at a depth of 15 mm as a heat diffuser instead
of their optional aluminium spreader plates that go around the pipe.

--
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http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
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  #6  
Old December 7th 04, 10:52 AM
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:

If its too wet it slumps.

It can almost be as dry as you like frankly. It will in time set no
matter how little water there is in it.


that makes things easier then, I presume the moisture from the sand will
be more than adequate for "setting" purposes then.

Though they do suggest leaving the heating on for 2 weeks before laying
chipboard on top for it to set.

--
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http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
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  #7  
Old December 7th 04, 11:16 AM
The Natural Philosopher
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Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

If its too wet it slumps.

It can almost be as dry as you like frankly. It will in time set no
matter how little water there is in it.



that makes things easier then, I presume the moisture from the sand will
be more than adequate for "setting" purposes then.

Though they do suggest leaving the heating on for 2 weeks before laying
chipboard on top for it to set.

Why stik chipboard over it?

Screed it flat enough for carpet, or use real wood flooring, or tile or
slate it..


  #8  
Old December 7th 04, 03:44 PM
Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Why stik chipboard over it?


Because it's upstairs in our upsideown house, so, only acting to help
heat transfer from UFH pipes laid between joists (supported by 9mm
ply/batens/45mm cellotex)

http://gymratz.co.uk/pete/floor.JPG
(Rockwool for sound insulation purposes)

I have dilemma'd(?) over flooring surface, and real wood or engineered
(preferred on UFH) boards have been toyd with, but as we prolly want
tiles in the kitchen and bathroom area we need a flooring to put them
on, hence 18mm moisture resistant chipboard throughout. Then, probabally
a 7mm hardwood faced top layer.

Though the final surface still is not decided on, but a chipboard deck
on the joists is currently the favoured route as it can be laid quickly,
and would be liveable with no other surface down for wall/ceiling
decorating and kitchen fitting purposes etc.

--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
http://trade-price-supplements.co.uk - TRADE PRICED SUPPLEMENTS for ALL!
http://fitness-equipment-uk.com - UK's No.1 Fitness Equipment Suppliers.
http://gymratz.co.uk/hot-seat.htm - Live web-cam! (sometimes)
  #9  
Old December 7th 04, 09:57 PM
Rick Hughes
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"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
.uk...
how dry is a dry mix?
this is for a thin screed over UFH



I laid many tonnes of screed over my Nu-Heat system, there is a full article
on this at - http://tinyurl.com/5m748

IMHO you need 65mm minimum, you can go lower but it WILL crack.

I used 75mm depth of fibre reinforced screed.


As to how dry, if you are buying it comes mixed correctly - if own mix, then
it should be mixed with minimum water, just enough that if you squeeze a
handful it will hold it's shape, without oozing any water or even making
your hand wet.

If own mixing best way is to damp down sand with a hose, no water added to
the drum.

A 4:1 mix is good enough .... you can buys bags of Fibrin fibre
reinforcement additives to add to your mix.

Underfloor heating is GREAT, no rads to worry about ... each room has it's
own digital temp control.
Really pleased with it.


Rick


  #10  
Old December 7th 04, 10:01 PM
Rick Hughes
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"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk" wrote in message
.uk...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

If its too wet it slumps.

It can almost be as dry as you like frankly. It will in time set no
matter how little water there is in it.


that makes things easier then, I presume the moisture from the sand will
be more than adequate for "setting" purposes then.

Though they do suggest leaving the heating on for 2 weeks before laying
chipboard on top for it to set.



I would leave at least 1 week per 10mm of thickness, especially if putting
h/w flooring or tiles on top.
In fact damp it down with hose after first 48 Hrs, and cover with plastic to
stop it drying out - you want it to cure - not dry.

I treated all of mine with a Butyl sealer after 1 week - stops dusting.

Rick


 




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